Battery cutoff switch pics

[DFrosty]

Hello Gents

Would those of you that have mounted and wired up a proper battery cutoff switch, be so kind as to post up some pics of your setup?

Just can't seem to tackle this portion of my track car build....us spec B3 90q 20v

Cheers

[CarstenH]

Hi DFrosty,
I use one of this switches in my S2 Coupe ABY.
The Battery is under the rear seats.
I think in your car the battery is next to the motor, but that doesn´t care.
To use this switch you have to cut the ground wire (black one) next to your battery, put the switch between battery and autobody.
When you use this switch no power door locks or alarmsystem will work...

sorry for my bad english, I hope you understand

[martinws]

I have one fitted on my 90. My battery is in the boot and I break the positive in the cabin with it so I can kill the whole engine bay and ecumenical in one shot if I'm working on the car or need to clear a code.

[speeding-g60]

what purpose? different rules for different types of racing. mine is NHRA, needs to be in the rear of the car with my speed/ET level, as well as battery relocation from stock.

also, must kill the entire car when flipped off.

so the input of the switch on mine has two wires. it is connected to the battery and the alternator charge output. then the one on the output of the switch goes to the fuseblock. i do it this way as once the car is running, if you have the alt charge output to the fusebox and shut off the switch, the car would stay running. just like you can start a car and completely remove the battery and it will stay running as the alternator would be providing the power.

this is the way it works for me, and of course i have two 200A circuit breakers up front to protect the lines.... for shutoff use to work on and "just in case".

HTH

[DFrosty]

what purpose? different rules for different types of racing. mine is NHRA, needs to be in the rear of the car with my speed/ET level, as well as battery relocation from stock.

also, must kill the entire car when flipped off.

so the input of the switch on mine has two wires. it is connected to the battery and the alternator charge output. then the one on the output of the switch goes to the fuseblock. i do it this way as once the car is running, if you have the alt charge output to the fusebox and shut off the switch, the car would stay running. just like you can start a car and completely remove the battery and it will stay running as the alternator would be providing the power.

this is the way it works for me, and of course i have two 200A circuit breakers up front to protect the lines.... for shutoff use to work on and "just in case".

HTH

That does indeed help, Thank you...I have the same Moroso batt box and Optima batt as well.

Looked up NASA rules/regs and I'll go with their spec...sounds very similiar to the NHRA spec

[speeding-g60]

from the NHRA:

8:1 BATTERIES
All batteries must be securely mounted. Must be of sufficient
capacity to start vehicle at any time. Batteries may not be relocated
into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-
inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray) required
when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery
may be located in a sealed .024-inch-steel, .032-inch-aluminum, or
NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear
firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be
vented outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to
frame or frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch-diameter
bolts. (“J” hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.)
OEM-located batteries without complete OEM hold-down hardware
must be secured to OEM battery box/tray using the same 3/8-inchdiameter-
bolt hold-down method described in previous sentence.
Metal battery hold-down straps mandatory. Strapping tape
prohibited.