Non starter help needed!

[UrS4boy]

I need time to sort it, but we all can vouch for being impatient in wanting them back on the road

But you need to hold your impatience in check and go slowly and methodically. I think the fuel pump relay can be eliminated as a source of the problem.

[andyg plym]

But you need to hold your impatience in check and go slowly and methodically. I think the fuel pump relay can be eliminated as a source of the problem.

yup,pin 18 is my first port of call

[ManiacuV6]

Put a 12V feed from battery to the 2+2 adapter --black conector (where you have written a + ) and put ingintion ON and try to check the trouble codes.
Bare in mind that if you get that 12V in the black connector it won't fix you starting problem . IF the car was closer I could fix it

[UrS4boy]

yup,pin 18 is my first port of call

And Pin 27 with the ignition key turned to RUN/ON (not Start)

[andyg plym]

And Pin 27 with the ignition key turned to RUN/ON (not Start)

so best way to check these terminals is? electrics are NOT my thing,get a multimetre positive inserted in the pin and negative to an earthing point?

I appreciate all help

[prj]

First thing is get code scanner working.
If fuel relay turns on, but there is no spark, and also can not connect to diagnostics, then probably there is a problem or damage to the bottom board of the ECU.

[andyg plym]

I recently had an ecu specialist install the resistor for 201 but I checked that yesterday and it appeared to be fine, I will reopen it and have another look

[andyg plym]

Also can I confirm that obd sockets not working is probably due to no power to ecu ?

[prj]

I recently had an ecu specialist install the resistor for 201 but I checked that yesterday and it appeared to be fine, I will reopen it and have another look

R201 is not going to affect starting of the engine. Even if you remove it completely. Handling the ECU badly when opening it will.

[prj]

If the fuel pump turns on, there's power to the ECU, and at least half of it is working.

[andyg plym]

I watched the guy do it, he litterally had thousands of ecus in his workshop and he's being doing it for many years no issues with his work

It's interesting how before if I gently wiggled (moved) the wires it would work,wiggle while engine running and I could make it cut out

Now it just will not start no matter how many times I gently wiggle the wires,

[UrS4boy]

so best way to check these terminals is? electrics are NOT my thing,get a multimetre positive inserted in the pin and negative to an earthing point? I appreciate all help

Hmm... we would never have guessed.

Yes, get a multimeter (analogue or digital). Set it to DC and 20 V and put the red (+) lead into the T55 harness connector at the correct pin (using the diagram below). Put the earth to the metal vehicle body or a grounding/earthing point nearby. You should get 12 V (say 11.75 V) measuring Pin 18 to ground. Put the probe pin in Pin 27 and earth the other lead. You should get 0 V. Now turn on the ignition key to RUN (not Start) and check the reading again - should be 11.75 V now. If either of them (18 or 27) are not getting power, then you need to trace back to find out where there is power and where there isn't power.

[andyg plym]

update:

got the car started

having had a little more time tonight I checked all the voltage readings which all appeared to be spot on on the ecu plug end.
Checked voltage on the black obd port and there was nothing,but there was on the white port.

Anyway,car started and again i wiggled the ecu-engine dies,restart then all is well,wiggle again and you guessed it,it cuts out.
Obviously MUST be the ecu end.On closer inspection you can just make out the the end pins (19,37,55) appear to of "sunk" further in to the ecu plug.


19=Ground from the ECU for various ECU controlled devices - BR/R - to intake manifold

37=Switched +12V for all 5 Fuel injectors (N30-N83) and MAF (G70)- BK/R - Provides ignition-on power to injectors and MAF during starting conditions and then power to the MAF for the hot-wire burn-off after the ignition is turned off all via a "Holding Relay" in the ECU. (Main power to the injectors and MAF comes through the J17 FP relay via pin 87A and the S72 thermofuse after the engine is started)

55=Output to Data Link connector "K" for diagnostics - G/R (HENCE WHY MINE IS DEAD)

So anyone know if this is an s2 only part(the ecu plug and inner terminal housing)?

Need to source another

[prj]

You can disassemble the entire thing and replace the pins.

The only way to damage the pins like that is to use excessive force while inserting the connector incorrectly, have an ECU with bent pins in the connector or both.

[andyg plym]

its the brown housing i need to replace i think as it has a couple of tiny splits in it