Central locking gradually gave up the ghost yesterday. From very slow to no response.
I pulled the pump, picked it apart and tested various things. When the door switches are activated, the relay within the unit clicks.
I tested (hotwired) the pump motor, and it is alive. The red wire on the pump has constant 12v, so I guess that it is turned on by switched ground. I also assume that the polarity switches for creating vacuum (for locking action) and pressure (for unlocking action). Thinking about it more, I guess that it is the motor ground feed to or from the relay that is dodgy, so will check for cracked solder joints.
This was the case in the 203 relay when the windows would not close. A little soldering action solved that.
Anyone have any experience with the internal workings of the pump?
(BTW, test drove a remapped bugeye STI the other day. I thought these things were fast.
Felt fast when I was in the passenger seat, but when being the one controlling the loud pedal, things usually feel way slower, and boy, was that thing disappointing.)
I pulled the pump, picked it apart and tested various things. When the door switches are activated, the relay within the unit clicks.
I tested (hotwired) the pump motor, and it is alive. The red wire on the pump has constant 12v, so I guess that it is turned on by switched ground. I also assume that the polarity switches for creating vacuum (for locking action) and pressure (for unlocking action). Thinking about it more, I guess that it is the motor ground feed to or from the relay that is dodgy, so will check for cracked solder joints.
This was the case in the 203 relay when the windows would not close. A little soldering action solved that.
Anyone have any experience with the internal workings of the pump?
(BTW, test drove a remapped bugeye STI the other day. I thought these things were fast.
Felt fast when I was in the passenger seat, but when being the one controlling the loud pedal, things usually feel way slower, and boy, was that thing disappointing.)
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