remote central locking help

[freakytate]

i have got myself a remote central locking system with the following diagram



i am going to trawl s2 central for wiring diagrams but wondered if anyone knows the pin in out / what wire colours i need to intercept at the vacuum pump please. could save me a lot of headwork

s2 coupe by the way, vacuum central locking
cheers

[mdz]

Central locking wiring: http://www.s2central.net/S2_Schematics/D/D39.PDF

Brown - direction light. Connects to black/green and black/white through two diodes ( Y type connection)
Red - 12v. Red for non-fused or usually red/blue for fused 12v.
Black - ground. Brown wire.
Red/black - boot contact switch. F123 switch in S2 diagram, brown/white wire (C connector pin 11 @ pump)
Orange - not needed
White - close signal. Brown/green or brown/gray in CL wiring loom. Don't remember which one was for opening, so connect and test.
Yellow - Connect together with yellow/black and then both of them to ground. Brown wire.
Orange/black - not needed
White/black - open signal. Brown/green or brown gray in CL wiring loom. As above - test which one is for opening.
Yellow/black - as above, to ground together with yellow.

Strange it doesn't need ignition 12v.

HTH

[freakytate]

Sweet, cheers. Guess you have fitted one of these before!

So your just not sure which is open and close colour on central locking loom on the car?

where is the connection to direction light, y type diode connection you mention? is it local to pump or in dash loom? i can run without this if needed

[freakytate]

I got it, on the pump connector loom

what you describes i work out to be the same as negative trigger fig 3 in my picture?

[mdz]

Haven't fitted this exact one but tons of others though. Most of aftermarket alarms works the same way and diagram you posted shows all necessary information for fitting.
Yes, I'm always forgetting which one opens and which closes so I connect them last and test before soldering.
If your car has factory alarm, then direction light wires will be in central locking wiring (connector B ?), if not, then closest will be rear lightning loom. Alarm should be supplied with two diodes for this. Y connection means there's one output from alarm unit, but it needs to connect to two separate wires.
Here's how it looks:


This is from Eaglemaster alarm I removed at some time.

Yes it's figure 3.

[freakytate]

Got ya. It had a bosch alarm but it hasnt worked in my possesion and the loom went up in smoke for that a few days ago so i removed it. Im left with just immobiliser no alarm system.

[Error404]

Fig 5 describes our system. At the dour lock actuator your have +12v, earth and lock/unlock trigger wire. Normally trigger wire is cut and immobiliser connected across the switch.
That is how mine is wired

[mdz]

That's another option, but wiring it up like I said it imitates locking car with key from doors and arms/disarms factory alarm too (if there is one).

[GazzaG60]

this is good. cheers , gonna use it for testing later. its one of the issues i have with my wiring. i have wired it in as it was cut out iirc
at present i have no CL at all. (in fact no rear lights either.) i have checked the fuse. i have the 2 wires from my toad connected into 2 wires in the cl loom but nothing at all happens. i get a live trigger on one of the wires coming from the alarm.

more testing needed, sorry for my mini hijack of your oh so relevent post

[freakytate]

mr mdz, just to confirm as im going to wire up this morning.... i connect these remote system wires in parallel with existing so the existing key can still be used? i do not need to cut and break the circuit merely connect together with original so it can send signal to cl pump same as the key operation would?

[mdz]

Yes connect them in parallel and doorlock will still be functional.

[freakytate]

hi, i connected my system up as per your instructions and as per diagram 3 on my picture but it operated the pump once in one direction and blew the fuse, i took off fuse number 19 , 10amp, m309z fuse board connection number.

im not sure which is open and close signal like you said but if i had these wrong way round surely it shouldn't blow a fuse? i have disconnected the unit and replaced fuse and back to key operation ok but none the wiser as to why it blew a fuse, any advice?

[freakytate]

And i dont have my meter to test today either so its making it 10 times harder.

Il take a photo of the wires and colours i have. I dont have the brown & green / grey like you mentioned. I have yellow/blue (pass) & green/blue (drivers) for central locking switches

[freakytate]

excuse the connector blocks as this is temporary until i prove it prior to making a neat job of it but basically this is what i have, just the two plugs....

[mdz]

Well, turns out you have a very basic central locking without alarm or anything. Then it will be figure 5. and this diagram: http://www.s2central.net/S2_Schematics/D/D36.PDF
Wire you'll need to cut into is green/blue or yellow/blue. G/b is marked as drivers side, y/b as passenger side. Use only one of them.