remote central locking help

[UrS4boy]

...Strange it doesn't need ignition 12v.
HTH

Not really. How do you get into the car to get ignition 12v when the doors are locked. The central locking system has to be connected to the "30" bus, i.e. constant power.

[freakytate]

ok cool. didnt need to split all those wires then....shame. i dont understand the internal logic on fig 5(E). is one coil to open and the other to close or one to open and both to close etc?

i had given up for the day but may have another crack now

[freakytate]

Not really. How do you get into the car to get ignition 12v when the doors are locked. The central locking system has to be connected to the "30" bus, i.e. constant power.

i had the same thought...

[freakytate]

Well after chopping all the wires in c/l loom i only needed to cut one. Sorted now and working off buttons abd keys. Need to connect to blinkers now so i can find my s2 in a car park full of normal cars

[UrS4boy]

Well after chopping all the wires in c/l loom i only needed to cut one. Sorted now and working off buttons abd keys. Need to connect to blinkers now so i can find my s2 in a car park full of normal cars

Good news. Too bad about the extra chopping. When I saw your photo of the terminal strip this AM (Mon), I went "WTF? He's got the same wires connected to the same wires, how is that going to work?"

At least it is semi-sorted. I have to do exactly what what you are doing with my UrS4 avant that has keyed central locking but NO remote.

[freakytate]

Haha. I connected them in terminal blocks then paralleled the remote units wiring into the original loom but it obviously was incorrect for my car.

Some solder and heat shrink and she be good as new. Thanks for advice

[mdz]

Not really. How do you get into the car to get ignition 12v when the doors are locked. The central locking system has to be connected to the "30" bus, i.e. constant power.

Yes, 30 AND 15 (ignition). Switched ignition is one of ways alarm (or remote cl) gets to know it's unlocked safely and doesn't need to rearm itself. Some alarms has a feature that locks doors when ignition is switched on and unlocks after switching ignition off preventing from stealing car by pulling you out from car while standing at traffic.

[UrS4boy]

Yes, 30 AND 15 (ignition).

"AND" is the key word. Gotta have at least "30" power.

[GazzaG60]

yep. agreetotally after yesterday. the older cars have 2 wires that go to the dash wiring not used. think they maybe for an older spec factory alarm or remote cental locking in 1991. wiring colours are also differnet to s2.

quick question whats igntion live and whats permanent on the fuse box, any way to tell without testing.

[mdz]

Fusebox from underside. Everything marked as "30**" is permanent, "15*" is ignition., "75**" is ignition that cuts while starting engine.

[freakytate]

Take a look at s2central schematics. They are very helpfull to a certain degree

[GazzaG60]

cheers

i worked it out toay tbh.

still got issues with central locking. my pump is 5 wire. the s2 was 3 plug bout 25 wires.

my alarm opens doors but wont close them. the locking is in blue yellow drivers door use red green iirc

its 12v when open and 0 when locked. i have 2 wires from alarm that were in the s2 for CL. both are either 12v or around 1v.

any ideas on this? i blow fuse when i try to intercept other wires and i want the function of door and remote to both work so dont want to chop the red/green really

[GazzaG60]

just to try to finish this one off can anybody shed any light on this.

it appears the 5 wire pump (2 actuated doors) changes position bettween locked and unlocked if a signal changes from 12v to 0v.

anybody know if the signal is not going to 0v but to 1v from the alarm if this is not enough to trigger the state change of the locks.

the previous sigma alarm which i think was installed from day dot had a loop in it to make the door locks use only one side of the wiring i feel for the state change. therefore i should be able to put 1 wire into the other wire and get working remote CL. im getting th3e inclin the 1v i get from toad is too much

any ideas

[GazzaG60]

issue fixed

just for others additional info on the 5 wire pump (7 pin) there are 2 wires for triggers 1 from each door. the passenger door wirei was into blue/yellow ended up having an issue pump side. would open but not lock. what a PITA time waster

moved wiring to drivers door and works.