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Evening all,
Problems with central locking on my 90' Coupe Quattro 20v
The Central locking both doors and boot operate correctly when I turn the key in the passenger side door, but Not if I do on the drivers door, why!!!!!
You cant hear the pump running or anything when the key is turned in the drivers door, but the pump comes on and unlocks/locks the boot and both doors from passenger door. Just seems odd that the actuator is moving the drivers lock from one side but not the other.
What I mean is I can unlock the drivers door, it just doesn't unlock/lock the boot or passenger door. Cheers, Rob
My guess is either the switch that is activated when you turn the key is FUBAR *OR*, more likely, one or both of the wires from the switch to the central locking control module are broken inside the rubber gaiter between the door and the body shell. Pull back the boot and invesigate. S2Central will have the diagrams that show the wire colours for that switch. (Sorry I can't access it ATM or I would point you right at them). Look for broken wires and fix. Bob's yer uncle.
RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant
This was the same in my Avant rob. The way i fixed it was i removed all the wiring for the old after market alarm that had been fitted prior to me purchase and had never ever worked since i had the car (6 years). When i removed the old alarm system i found broken/ cut wires so i rejoined them and my central locking started working as it should. HTH's, Chris
Fist thing to do will be take off the door card and proceed from there. Could be various things but it may be obvious if it's a wire, slipped rod or dead actuator once you can see (and hear) close-up
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1990 CQ20v
2001 3.0 B6 A4 Avant Quattro Sport
Well all the actuators work from the passenger side when the key is in, so it must be a wiring fault really. There is remittance of some old immobilisers so I think thats what I will pursue first!
Well all the actuators work from the passenger side when the key is in, so it must be a wiring fault really. There is remittance of some old immobilisers so I think thats what I will pursue first!
That was my issue too as said. I wasnt expecting it to be but glad it was as it was more straight forward than i was expecting
Had similar tale of woe with my RS2, First started a year ago, Aftermarket alarm would mysteriously trigger, any time any place, could find no reason for it after many attempts but problem slowly got worse so I stopped using the alarm and would lock the car manually but started noticing that on return the car was unlocked, At first just thought I'd forgot to lock it but after a few times I guessed there was some type of problem
Anyway ... bit the bullit and starting hunting for info on the central locking wiring diagrams and explanations of operation, Its only when you start looking for info you realise how invaluable this site and others like it are when you have a problem, Found a few descent wiring diagrams and worked out which was closest to the RS2, was not exactly the same but good enough, Took off all door cards, tailgate, inner cover and removed central locking pump unplugged all cables and essentially just done a point to point check as well as checking power in the various parts its required to be
What I found on mine was both doors had faulty lock microswitches on the door locks and whilst not directly connected to the locking of the car were used for the factory installed alarm which is also part of the central locking pump, Also found a broken wire to the tailgate lock, Replaced the 2 switches on the locks with ones rescued from a local breakers yard and after some head scratching on how to repair broken wire in tailgate found an unused wire in the loom (originally for tail lights on non RS2 numberplate) and reused this wire to replace the broken one, Cant explain why on reading all the info on various posts but it fixed my problem, did not get too ocd on it as moved onto next problem
For your problem I would check the switch on the vacuum actuator on drivers door, 3 wires, Going by memory it has 12V, 0V and a switch wire which goes back to the pump unit, When you turn the key the switch wire gets a 12V or 0V signal which starts the pump either pressurising or applying vac to other actuators,
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