Starter issues

[1781cc]

I had to be towed home by the AA the other day as my starter motor disintegrated, it's probably the original one from the car so it's done ok, but when the garage took the car in and explored the replacement they found that it has an aluminium rod connecting the steering to the starter that causes a part of the electrical engagement process, it's been stuck for what appears to be ages and is bent, they have tried Audi for a replacement but it's on back order with no date in sight.

This could be the cause of my electrical leak, as if it's bent it can allow the key out and dash lights off but the starter motor remains charged, it's the same part that locks the gearbox in park via cable.

Any suggestions on sourcing this part or work around to delete this part of the chain if a part is no longer available?

Thanks

[1781cc]

Update for anyone else having a similar issue, part number 8A0 905 851 B fixed the issue, along with a new starter motor!

All solved now

[UrS4boy]

Ignition switch failure

Update for anyone else having a similar issue, part number 8A0 905 851 B fixed the issue, along with a new starter motor! All solved now

I don't think that you were told the complete truth. The part that you describe is Item 1, the steering lock and while it is important and needs to function properly, the real culprit was most likely Item 5 the ignition switch. These fail by splitting the result of which is the internal spring does not return the key to RUN after you have turned it to START and started the engine. Unfortunately one bad result of this is the starter motor is left engaged with the engine and with the engine now turning, it over spins the starter motor, mechanically destroying it. Installing a new starter in this situation without installing a new Item 5 ignition switch results in the death of yet another starter. Very well known situation, at least on the NAmerican forums.

Ignition switch DIY: http://12v.org/urs/IgnitionSwitchReplacementDIY.pdf

[1781cc]

hmmm, so I may still have the problem? which would tally as I went out there just a while ago and she struggled to start again, I got the clicking and eventually she fired up.

I will speak to the garage and see what the deal is tomorrow

I may need to find a new garage as my patience is wearing thin now

Thanks for the heads up and the PDF link

[UrS4boy]

My guess is they ordered Item 1 which includes Item 5 the switch. re- and re-ing the steering wheel lock doesn't seem necessary to me. Only time that I know of one being replaced was after and attemped theft (they failed, when they broke the steering wheel lock by jamming a screw driver into the key slot and forcing things. Without the key to properly release the steering wheel lock, the brute force broke the steering wheel lock in the locked position.

[1781cc]

yeah, theres no damage to my steering lock its all fine, but the drain appears to still be happening, though at a slower rate than before (I can do overnight now no problem, but more than a day and she struggles to start)

[macspring]

but the drain appears to still be happening, though at a slower rate than before (I can do overnight now no problem, but more than a day and she struggles to start)

No real help, but are you sure your battery is not tired / on it's way out. Just suggestin.......

Interested to see the final cure.

Regards.

[1781cc]

Battery was replaced under warranty 6 months ago, it's a Bosch one, tests fine, no dead cells

[macspring]

No worries, thanks for reply.

Would have been a bit too obvious a cure.

Others with more brains should now jump in and help.

[1781cc]

Appreciate all interest and suggestions in solving this issue, thanks

[UrS4boy]

yeah, theres no damage to my steering lock its all fine, but the drain appears to still be happening, though at a slower rate than before (I can do overnight now no problem, but more than a day and she struggles to start)

Typical electrical drains include:

1. After-run pump 324 control module keeps the pump and rad fan on after the 10 min mark
2. Window and sunroof control module - keeps the lights on or swithch lights on after you've exited the car an locked it
3. Central locking and control module - it is conntected to the window and sunroof module so chicken and egg.

[1781cc]

Went out today after a full charge last night and dead again - had to jump pack her... eventually did my trip, came back, charged her up, popped the hood and locked the car.

I wired in a 12v bulb into the negative terminal and she started flashing, not mega bright, but consistently though, unplugged all the fuses one by one until the light went out, appears to be fuse position 4 (15 fuse) which if the RS2 guide posted here before is the same for my car, points to:

Reading lights, clock, trunk light, cig-lighter, dome light, trip-computer, make-up mirror, anti-theft, check system, air-condition, radio, illumination AG4 selector switch.



The car has the standard audi alarm, but also an aftermarket system, so thats a potential cause, as is the stereo that I wired in myself (I will be so ashamed if I have done this wrong, but at least I know how I can check that)

I can check the internal lights by pulling bulbs, but how do I check the check system, alarm and selector switch?

Thanks

[UrS4boy]

... unplugged all the fuses one by one until the light went out, appears to be fuse position 4 (15 fuse) which if the RS2 guide posted here before is the same for my car, points to:

Reading lights, clock, trunk light, cig-lighter, dome light, trip-computer, make-up mirror, anti-theft, check system, air-condition, radio, illumination AG4 selector switch.

I can check the internal lights by pulling bulbs, but how do I check the check system, alarm and selector switch? Thanks

If the engine is off and you pull the key out of the ignition and lock the car, if an interior bulb is not lit, it is NOT an issue. No need to pull it. (Might be best tested at night)

The key to finding out what is connected to the S4 fuse and tracking down the culprit (including the alarm system and the V94 central locking control module) is on page 2 of 3 of this Audi 80 wiring diagram pdf from S2Central.net:

http://www.s2central.net/S2_Schematics/D/D39.PDF

[1781cc]

traced all the stereo wires and made sure they were correct, checked all the bulb circuits, last grey area was the alarm, so charged the car fully, put the #4 fuse back in, disconnected the head unit from the wiring at the back to completely rule out that element - went outside this morning, flat battery!

It looks like the clifford is the culprit...

She is now on charge again - the funny thing is, earlier in the week I had charged her, pulled the #4 fuse and had no issues, started perfectly each time

Depressing reading google searches and seeing that cliffords are a common cause of battery drains