Fuel pump power feed

[Dobby84]

Right, got the no spark issue sorted.
I pulled the fuse board out to find that the red plug had come loose, closer inspection found that on side of the clip is damaged so doesn't clip in properly. I have solved this now and the car started up fine then stopped.

I also checked the sensors and timing pin, the sensors were very dirty so cleaned them up and the pin was till there.

Back to the old fuel pump issues then. I bypassed the green/yellow wire from the back of fuel 13 to the fuel pump and she started up perfectly. Ran it up to temperature and everything seems good.........but....

I switched it off and routed the new wire from the fuse to the pump and now it doesn't start. I haven't changed anything so I have shut the bonnet and come in the wTch the football and let it cool down to see if it's a hot start issue but probably some thing I have done whilst disconnecting and reconnecting a wire.

[UrS4boy]

Also I have just plugged the dials back in (dash is out at the moment) and nothing, no lights when the intuition is on. Is this leading me towards the ecu?

Intuition does help sometimes but I find turning on the ignition *AND* the headlight switch usually gets the dash lights on a lot better.

[Dobby84]

Getting 12 v to pin 18 on the ecu

[Dobby84]

Also I have just plugged the dials back in (dash is out at the moment) and nothing, no lights when the intuition is on. Is this leading me towards the ecu?

[Dobby84]

Well that's interesting.....
I have just gone to read the codes using my code scanner and when I plugged it in it didn't turn on like it usually does. Does having no power to this narrow my search at all?

[UrS4boy]

3B J220 ECU power sources

There are two power sources for a 3B J220 ECU:

S27 = 5 amp constant power
S32 = 20 Amp, Switched power, also powers the N152 ignition transformer

[UrS4boy]

I checked for spark and I am not getting anything.
From a bit of research I have come to the conclusion that it could be one of the following things:

· Distributor gear
· G4 sensor
· G28 sensor
· Hall Sensor in distributor
· 12v feed to ECU
· Timing pin broken

This weekend is going to be fun!

Potential solutions to why your 20VT-powered UrS isn't starting : http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/210191.phtml

G4/G28 info: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/20986.phtml

G4 Timing pin: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/51259.phtml

G40 Hall sensor info: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/22580.phtml

G40 in distributor replacement DIY: http://12v.org/urs/ReplacementOfTheH...istributor.pdf

[Dobby84]

No spark issue.

I checked the spark plugs yesterday and they are black and smell of fuel so I assume I am getting fuel through the injectors but I will check this tonight.

I checked for spark and I am not getting anything.

I also noticed that the LED I added to the fuel relay is not flashing on turn over which it was last time the car ran.

From a bit of research I have come to the conclusion that it could be one of the following things:

· Distributor gear
· G4 sensor
· G28 sensor
· Hall Sensor in distributor
· 12v feed to ECU
· Timing pin broken

I am going to check the wiring connections on the sensors first as this is possibly the simplest task.
I'm not too convinced it will be the distributor as it started fine before and suddenly stopped.
How easy is it to access the G4 and G28 sensors, would it be easier from below or will I have to remove stuff first? I know these will cause no spark so will pull them out to check them over and whilst I am there check the timing pin.

I have a bad feeling that it could be the pin which I assume will mean I will have to drop the gear box and get a new fly wheel.

Can anyone give me some tips for the checking process? I have read most posts on this topic.

This weeked is going to be fun!

[Dobby84]

******* car!!!!!!

Popped by today to take a measurement and thought I would run it up again to make sure it was bleed properly and the blasted thing just turns over with not ignition.

Put power to the pump again to see if it was that but it didn't make a difference.
Only thing I've touched since it was running was the MAF when I unplugged it, everything else has been mechanical.

[newsh]

Well done mate, result!

I'm not really keen on those wire joiner crimps, they can go loose or you end up crimping on the insulation.. I always solder and heatshrink any loom repairs.

[Dobby84]

Right, I had a fiddle tonight with some success
I'm not sure what I've done really but I checked all the conections as advised, found a few dodgy crimps that I have now replaced and now 'touch wood' the pump is working and the car starts.

[Dobby84]

Cheers buddy. I'll try have a look one evening this week.

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

[UrS4boy]

The grn/yel wire should go only from S13 to the pump.
Establish if you have volts on S13, if you have then there's a break between there and the pump. According to Dave's diagram above, the grn/yel wire should be in H87f, ie in the Black plug in area H, pin87f [/img]

Here is a better diagram (stolen from somewhere here from somebody):

[newsh]

The grn/yel wire should go only from S13 to the pump.

Establish if you have volts on S13, if you have then there's a break between there and the pump.

According to Dave's diagram above, the grn/yel wire should be in H87f, ie in the Black plug in area H, pin87f

[Dobby84]

Yes I know, so you either soldered to 87 or 87a, the other set of contacts is not monitored by the LED.
It's a long shot but possible the one set of contacts works and the other doesn't..
Anyway if you you have power at S13 and you can run a wire from S13 to the pump and it runs then the MUST be a break in the green/yellow wire

I did try running a wire from the relay to the pump with no success but then I may not have had a good connection or the right connection to be honest. It started raining so gave up. Ill check the fuse and if its working then I will try running the wire from that instead. Does the green/yellow wire feed anything else or just the pump?

I tried finding this wire under the dash and fuse box but couldn't see it but will have another look.