Strange speedo readings

[Rikki Kitto]

So bit strange my speedo seems to get stuck now and then at different speeds the rev counter also does this from time to time never at the same speed or revs then just starts working again after a while Any ideas

[ericd]

So bit strange my speedo seems to get stuck now and then at different speeds the rev counter also does this from time to time never at the same speed or revs then just starts working again after a while Any ideas

Is this just not a sign they're beginning to stick or get trapped by raised parts of the dial faces ????

[Bowie69]

I get this, it is electrical I believe, they work better in summer when things dry out, but I have never found the dry joint causing it

[Klobsters]

It's almost definitely a problem with the circuitboard of the whole unit. Most likely there's a circuit with a bad connection and all you need to do is find it and re-solder it. It's usually quite easy to spot.
This is a very common fault.

[Bowie69]

Yup, been meaning to pull it all out again for a while now!

[Rikki Kitto]

Is this just not a sign they're beginning to stick or get trapped by raised parts of the dial faces ????

Faces are fine no peeling

[Rikki Kitto]

Frustrating as the clocks have been in n out more time than a porn stars sex toy

[Quattronaut]

Sure it isn´t just a power problem? If it stucks around 260 a bigger turbo could fix it


I had a similar problem with mine, speedo showed no reaction any more, but rev counter was still fine. On the main circuit board there was a broken line, it was the main ground from the whole thing, going complete around the baord, and it broke just in the middle off the board, at the very thin line between the BC display and the controle lights below. Little soldering job and worked again. Hope this helps. If you need pics, let me know.

[Klobsters]

Also it wouldn't hurt to clean all the contacts, just in case.

[ristokru]

I have the same problem. It must be circuit board because a i have tried new speedo and all worked. But it was 220kmh speedo.

I have looking for bad soldering but everything looks ok. I cant find the issue.
Other option is to but new board but is that right that 260kmh speedo borad is not right board because its V6?

[Bowie69]

I'm not sure on that, as there are dipswitches on the side of the board that could be used to change this?

[Rikki Kitto]

Cheers guys looks like I'll have to have the clocks out again at some point then, need to fit the broken odometer cog anyhoo

[ristokru]

Sure it isn´t just a power problem? If it stucks around 260 a bigger turbo could fix it


I had a similar problem with mine, speedo showed no reaction any more, but rev counter was still fine. On the main circuit board there was a broken line, it was the main ground from the whole thing, going complete around the baord, and it broke just in the middle off the board, at the very thin line between the BC display and the controle lights below. Little soldering job and worked again. Hope this helps. If you need pics, let me know.

I need pics if you can send. I cant find the error nowhere

[Bowie69]

Yup, pics would be great! Need to pull mine and have a really proper look at the board by the sounds of things.

[Quattronaut]

Hello guys, took a time, was quite busy. I had a complete how-to-do posted in another forum, but there you have to be member to see pics.

So here the short version:

Dissambled Speedo, brown thing is main board.



Front side of main board. The surface is kinda coated in black, so the conductor tracks are a bit hard to see, but it´s possible to follow them. The red arrow shows the interruption in my case, this is one of the main ground lines.



The coating also isolates, so if you find the interruption, you have to scratch away the coating. Since at this point there is the plastic with the chambers of the warning lights just sitting directly on the board, you should not build a thick soldering point.



Backside of the point. In my case, the board itself was broken at this point, that´s probably the reason why this problem came up a year after the first repair again. During the second repair, we fixed the crack with some superglue, hope this lasts longer.

It´s a time ago, but when I remember it right, the interruption was not visible through the coating, it took quite much time to measure it out. This ground line connects most or all of the bulbs and other ground points, so you really can follow it and measure from point to point. If you have the right part of the line from point to point, maybe you need to set "scratching points" to find the real interruption point more accurate (see pic 3, little left from the soldering point). In my case, the line was not completely dead, from time to time it worked so we did a little pressing on the line between the measuring points to find loose connection. But be carefull