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Just finished rebuilding my engine. It turns over but will not start.
I know this sounds abit vague but my mind is exhausted and
i can't think straight. ( I see a redish mist)
Any Ideas. I've checked everything but waiting for Vagcom.
No spark or no fuel is the question? If either is not working you need to check ECU codes, you could do it the manual way with an led and jumper wire until you get the vagcom.
Just guessing here but i would start with the two sensors on the flywheel, and cam pully on aby's, i.e. timing sensors for ECU. Anything else wrong it should at least try to start i would have thought.
Mark.
91CQ20v - Gone to a new home
93UR-S4 - The Magic Carpet
94S2Bus - The Emerald Express
I was thinking more about the elecy sensors, crank position, top dead center and the other one in the dist or cam pully (cant remember what its called). Make sure there working and giving a signal to the ecu. If its all been apart its usually something simple, not positioned correctly, forgot to plug one in etc, done it myself many times :-)
Is it a 3b or aby? I would start with the LED and try and get codes out, it will tell you if the ECU is alive for a start, hopefully if it dosent like a sensor you will get a code out of it.
91CQ20v - Gone to a new home
93UR-S4 - The Magic Carpet
94S2Bus - The Emerald Express
definetly check the sensors on the bell housing. also make sure they are connected the right way around
Morning Greg,
Please elaborate.
I've checked fuel supply by breaking supply rail and turning engine over
Next to check for spark.
What i realy need is a VAGCOM.
Anyone near london Got one ?????????
I know its one of millions of possibilities but...... when i re-built my engine, I turned it over and it wouldn't start, had the hot flush of panic then at first glance of the engine noticed that I hadn't plugged the cam position sensor at the front of the engine back in, as I wanted to route the cable nicely , but had forgotten. Plugged it in and she fire up.
After my head re-build i turned over for 2-3 minutes before she fired, filling the tappets and blowing out any crap before she fired. But the hall sensor is a likely suspect, as it is so easy to crack one, BTDT when fitting the pulley.
HTH
Graham
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein
After my head re-build i turned over for 2-3 minutes before she fired, filling the tappets and blowing out any crap before she fired. But the hall sensor is a likely suspect, as it is so easy to crack one, BTDT when fitting the pulley.
HTH
Graham
Would it stop ECU from firing Spark plugs???
Does the Hall sensor come with pick up located behind pulley wheel???
what is the white dot for??
The two sensors on the bell housing both have the same type of connectors, if these have been disconnected during the rebuild it is easy to plug them in the wrong way around
Would it stop ECU from firing Spark plugs???
Does the Hall sensor come with pick up located behind pulley wheel???
what is the white dot for??
Most definitely, the Crank position sensor and the hall sensor are what the engine use to control the firing. There is a plug just behind the little vaccum hose at the very end of the inlet manifold (Closest to the front of the car) just above the power steering pump. Just behind the vacume pipe is the plug,(A 2 pin plug roughly the same size as the injector plugs) the wiring from this plug goes behind the PAS pump bracket against the engine and behind the CAM pulley to the sensor which is behind the pulley mounted on a peg with one bolt holding it on the peg. Bit of a bitch (though not hard, just labour intensive) to change as the cam needs locking to undo the cam pulley bolt.-This involves removing the intake pipe above the turbo, the throttle damper, the coilpacks and the CAM cover so you can remove the cam pulley and sensor.
HTH
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein
Engine needs camshaft (hall) sensor and both crankshaft sensors working before any chance of getting a spark.
Pull fault codes with the LED if you can't get VAG-COM. That will point to any obvious wiring problems.
Previous suggestions about getting the two crank sensors mixed up is very valid. Are you absolutely the certain the camshaft timing is OK ?
Don't forget on the RS2 the timing marks don't quite line up - you need to be one tooth off. Search the forum for more details and pics on that little anomolie.
Cam shaft timing is good 1/2 tooth advance.
I will check the bell housing sensors and hopefully get Vag-com tommorrow.
Time to pull a sicky and run home to my Overalls.
Problem is hall sender was put in a tray with other bolts so it could have been
battered about Cost £ 116+vat
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