Oil plug stuck!

[coupegt]

been having a bad day today.

Wanted to do an oil change, but the drain plug is stuck beyond belief.

Last year i had a garage to do it, and they broke a socket trying to get the damn thing loose, eventually they got if loose with a welding tourch using the heat.

In agreement with me they did not tighten it very hard once finished in order to avoid the same situation again, so i did not expect any trouble this time, but fook that thing is stuck. after spending better part of two hours i gave up, and am going to put it in a garage during next week and will have to pay someone to do it

Is this a common problem, or just bad luck for me, and what about using heat on the aluminium engine bottom, i am not too happy about it, but gotta change the oil

Then i decided to change the MFTS (gauge in the cluster behaving funny), bought a new one at allmost 70 euro but its damn near impossible to get at, without dismantling half the engine cant even get the electrical connector off

So right now im quite displeased with my S2, crappy day

[YELL MAN]

I dont know if it's common for the plug to get stuck but i changed the oil the last month or so and i had a hell of a job getting the sump plug out . It did eventuly free but it took a t-bar with a long bit of pipe on the end and a lot of brute strength to do it.

[NoNonsense]

Before you remove the plug, do yourself a favor and buy a brand new one. Also, make sure you have a crush washer (usually copper) between the plug and the pan. It sounds like you might not have that washer and the steel plug is seizing to the pan.

As for removing the plug, I don't have any suggestions for that because I wouldn't want you to break your oil pan on my account. Good luck!

[Technogym]

Here is what I did after wrecking the pipe with a air-gun: Start the engine and let it be as warm as possible, the sump will expand more than the plug, and then take the socket with the longest bar you have available! Worked fine for me!

Cheers

Vegard

[Urquattro20V]

I had the same problem, managed to put the plug back on without the washer, big mistake! Next time around I could do pullups hanging from the wrench without the plug coming loose...but it did wreck the edges. So I let the local garage have a look. They used a hammer and a special socket tool that "digs" (not drills) into the plug to get more grip. It did the trick, don't know the name of the tool though. Make sure you have a new plug+washer handy because the old one will be ruined after this.

[S2central.net]

Its a common problem alright...

[S2 Ant]

I would recommend buying a Fumoto Drain Valve, simple tap to open and close for oil changes.
I wasnt sure at first until i saw how tight this plug gets and having seen the cost of a new sump ( ~£250 from memory) i opted for the $24 drain valve.
Also makes changes so so much easier!!!

Search the forum for more info.

[Jamo]

I would recommend buying a Fumoto Drain Valve, simple tap to open and close for oil changes.
I wasnt sure at first until i saw how tight this plug gets and having seen the cost of a new sump ( ~£250 from memory) i opted for the $24 drain valve.
Also makes changes so so much easier!!!

Search the forum for more info.

Ditto, after i first bought the S2 i did an oil change. My friend and i took it in turns to kick the breaker bar before the sump plug would move after 20 minutes.

Bought a Fumoto valve straight away and no more plug issues.

[PeterS]

Best solution that I have found is buying one of these...

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952164000

The sockets have an internal twisted edges that bit into the sides of the bolt..they only work on standard bolts in that they must be used in the anti clockwise direction to remove the bolt.

In the past I have had to resort to taking a file to a very damaged bolt head ( picture a melted block of butter), re-filing the 5 sides of the head, and hammering a 16mm 6 pt socket ( remember that the bolt starts as a 17mm) on to the bolt and then using a 3 ft breaker bar to remove the bolt...

Last time I ran into this issue, I bought a set of the bolt outs for $20 USD, used an 18 inch break bar, and a 1/4 turn loosened the damaged bolt...

-Peter

[coupegt]

thanks for all the answers, seems like its not jus my car, which is something at least. Doublechecked and the copper washer is in place, so thats not the problem.

Girlfriend is bringing home the BIG toolkit tonight (was left in her Audi) so will give it another go, got a new plug to fit also, very good idea with the valve though.

From reading here, it seems like quite alot of force can be put on the bolt without damaging the oil pan, hope i will get lucky and it will just come off without further problems.

[Greg_S]

I have a fumoto valve for sale if anyone is interested

[baltiboyS2]

valve

hi greg what you looking for the valve:mischeif:

[S2 Ant]

I really need to change my screen resolution.... everytime i see your name against the last reply part of a thread it looks like Bati-boy lol!!!

[Greg_S]

I really need to change my screen resolution.... everytime i see your name against the last reply part of a thread it looks like Bati-boy lol!!!

LOL.

Looking for £10 plus P&P. A chap from Norway currently has 1st refusal once I check postage for him.

[s2_bo]

LOL.

Looking for £10 plus P&P. A chap from Norway currently has 1st refusal once I check postage for him.

if he ops out i would take you up on that Greg.. Need to change oil in about 1k so may as well replace it with a valve.

Cheers.
Bo