New build engine does not move :(

[Albert]

I have tried o fire up my new engine for the second day. We conected all the nesery hoses and other nessesary equipent. When we take and move crank with wrenth on the central bolt (front pullay) it moves very hard. When we want to use starter it does not move

I suspect that the engine was built do stiff. I have some quesions:

- I use RS2 main bearings. Can thay be used in 3B block ? The main bearing nr is 24. Is it posible to insert them in a bad way ?



- What is the strenght and the procedure that the main bolts (oem) should be tighned in 3B block ?

- Did any of you expierience that the SPM rods would be to big (to thick) on the sides of the rods ? There is no side movement on the bearing when put on the bearings on the crank and on the piston pin in the piston.

- What procedure is used to tighten the rod bolts ? I used 60Nm only. It is good on SPM rods or we should use other procedure ?

- Any other ideas what can couse the engine to move that hard ?
I have put together a engine before but it was just rebuld and id not have any problems.

[SteveH]

Did you check the fit on each rod when you built the motor? Also, did you try turning the crank when the mains were bolted down? Without checking as you added each component it's going to be impossible to guess what is wrong. I'd pull the motor and strip the bottom end.

[Albert]

yes, now we will put the motor apart and build it from a scarth.

Do You know answers for my questions ?

[Mark Halligan]

yes, now we will put the motor apart and build it from a scarth.

Albert when you rebuild it, check the clearances on each bearing using plastigauge, its quick and easy to use.

If the crank turned easily to start with before the rods were assembled, I'd suspect the big ends or something to do with the rods.

Or in extreme cases if the ring gaps weren't checked and filed to the correct gaps, excessive radial ring tension would lock up the pistons in the bores?

Do You know answers for my questions ?

- OEM 'RS2' bearings are supplied standard for 3B/ABY etc, I can't see how they can go in wrong unless you got the caps on the wrong way round (the stamped number 1,2,3,4,5 or 6 should be on the same side as the starter motor)

- The standard OEM mains bolts torque to 65NM

- the ARP 2000 bolts supplied with my Arrows are ~60NM also

- Did the the thrust bearings go in OK?

[philS2]

i'd just take the sump off (if it's easy enough) and crack off each big end in turn then turn the engine over.if it was still tight crack off the mains.after that-rings but if they were that tight the engine re-builder would have noticed.the engine should be turned over(during rebuild)after any rotating part that's connected to the crank is added.

[volcano rs]

what rods did you use ? pauter ?
i had similar problem one of the rods was catching and making the crank very tight to turn

[BRY]

SPM rods

[volcano rs]

SPM rods

all it needs is a little filing to cure the problem have you thrown away that t shirt yet ?

[Jon441cc]

There is a washer between the crank and the crank sprocket which spaces out the dampner to prevent it hitting the block.



Hope it helps

[Ross]

I've just measured up one my 3B rods vs. the SPM rod (cheers Jon!), not with any precision tools mind you but the big end & little end seem to be the same thickness (ie within the thickness of a piece of paper - don't ask).

SPM did confirm that the rod bolts should be 60NM so spot on

Hopefully the bottom-end will be rebuilt on my motor in about 10 days so I'll post up if theres any issues as I'll be using SPMs as well.

[Albert]

it now looks that the SPM rods where to thick. The big end and litle end where to wide on the side and this coused the engine to move hard. I have removed the rods and the engine started to move very nice.

The parts atached to the rods are PKMotorsport crank and coustom CP pistons (sample send to be 100% it is made right). I figure it is a problem with SPM rods I will post more details soon when I put the engine back togeter again.

One thing I could ask dear forum members. What is the procedure for thighting the main bolts. I have found two ways and I have to fiture what is the right one. First is 60Nm and the second is 60Nm + 180 degrees.

[s2dude]

it now looks that the SPM rods where to thick. The big end and litle end where to wide on the side and this coused the engine to move hard. I have removed the rods and the engine started to move very nice.

The parts atached to the rods are PKMotorsport crank and coustom CP pistons (sample send to be 100% it is made right). I figure it is a problem with SPM rods I will post more details soon when I put the engine back togeter again.

One thing I could ask dear forum members. What is the procedure for thighting the main bolts. I have found two ways and I have to fiture what is the right one. First is 60Nm and the second is 60Nm + 180 degrees.

Ouch

Doesnt sound good for the SPM rods guys

[diesel des]

May just need to grind some out of the block. Are they hitting the block when turning? Is you crank stock or long stroke?

[Albert]

my crak is OEM stroke. I have to grind the rods a bit.

[Ross]

Albert,

Have you found if it's both the little end + big end? And is this problem with all 5 rods? I did find the shells a bit of a tight squeeze in the big-end but then I figured that they should be, as they move against the crank not the rings (?)

Interested to see how you fix it (in case I have to do the same )

Cheers
Ross