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First do the water trick to see if it is the auxillary belts (pas,alt & air con) pour some water on see if it goes away, the belts on these make some wonderfull noises you would never assosiate with belts. But if it doesnt go away, check the timing belt tensioner as these squeel before giving up the ghost. If the belt is getting done soon yo should replace the tensioner along with the water pump. If there is anything new in there dont discount it, a part is most likely to fail when it is either new or worn out with age. If either the pump or the tensioner seize it will snap the belt and then you have that lovely noise of tap tap tap as the valves go boing BTDT--all inlet 10 bent .
It will deffo be worth getting it sorted as mine cost a fortune to repair, and i done all the work, mine failed through faulty workmanship, the garage which done the job initially never tightened the crank pulley bolt up properly and it came out 9000 miles later. 450Nm is alot but thats what the manual says thats what it got.
The Perfectionist
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Audi Class Concours winner Stoner Park 2014, ADI Concours D'Elegance Class Winner 2008, Runner up 2014. Winner, S2Forum Show'n'Shine Billing 2006 & 2008.
I had exactly the same when i changed my cam belt at the last Garage meet.
It turned out to be a tiny bit of the plate that sits between the top pulley and the camcover/ engine bolock. This plate is about 1.5 - 2 mm thick and in my case was slightly bent due to refitting after the belt change.
It was rubbing for a while and made a horrible noise that sounded like something was about to break and rip.
If you prise away the cam cover slightly you might be able to see if the top of the plate as come free and is rubbing the inside of the big pulley.
It will deffo be worth getting it sorted as mine cost a fortune to repair, and i done all the work, mine failed through faulty workmanship, the garage which done the job initially never tightened the crank pulley bolt up properly and it came out 9000 miles later. 450Nm is alot but thats what the manual says thats what it got.
All parts are replaced when we do a belt, it is not worth the hassle of saving a couple of quid with not replacing part x only to have to go back in there a couple of miles later and I hate having to recharge for something that could've been done while we were in there.
450Nm is the true value at the bolt, this only applies if you don't have the torque multiplier. I have a monster 3/4" drive 1000Nm torque wrench we does the job lovely.
All parts are replaced when we do a belt, it is not worth the hassle of saving a couple of quid with not replacing part x only to have to go back in there a couple of miles later and I hate having to recharge for something that could've been done while we were in there.
450Nm is the true value at the bolt, this only applies if you don't have the torque multiplier. I have a monster 3/4" drive 1000Nm torque wrench we does the job lovely.
When i re-built mine i was lucky enough to have access to a callibrated torque wrench capable of this figure, i was lucky as the ones available were either too big or too small, there was just 2 in my range out of about 20. I didnt like Audi's design of tightening as this puts all the strain and load on the engine mounts so i made a tool which fitted into the damper/pulley and was hollow for the torque wrench, and the tool reacted against an axle stand instead of the engine.
The setup is also another example of poor engineering practices as the cam pulley and damper depend totally on the bolt being tight enough, the cylinder head, alternator, PAS pump and air con are driven by the friction between head of the bolt and the crank. Instead of using a more reliable taper fitment with a tool steel key, and not the cast - weak as **** key in the pulley for location only. I believe in making something idiot proof as the likes of me can get my hands on it .
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein
In that case I wouldn't worry. I tend to give my belts a little WD40 every now and again too.
The Perfectionist
sigpic
Audi Class Concours winner Stoner Park 2014, ADI Concours D'Elegance Class Winner 2008, Runner up 2014. Winner, S2Forum Show'n'Shine Billing 2006 & 2008.
Instead of using a more reliable taper fitment with a tool steel key, and not the cast - weak as **** key in the pulley for location only. I believe in making something idiot proof as the likes of me can get my hands on it .
Its (the key) suppose to be weak in most applications. It doesn't seem like this is one of them though...
I mean if it shears you have got an expensive mess on your hands. If it doesn't shear it will likely just shut the engine down. Maybe more damage would be done to the bottom end if the engine stops abruptly.
Dave K.
USA
1991 e//S2 (home built S2 - the only way to get one in USA!)
2001 S4
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