20V 7A issues

[Audi80/90ClubEurope]

Hello!

a month ago i finished my 20V 7A swap in my car but i have some issues;
1. at cold start it will not run stationary, i need to hold my foot for 5 seconds on the gas and it will stay running.
2. The throthle keeps hanging when i am pulling hard. It does it too when i am driving normally over 4000-4500rpm.
If i switch the car off and back on it is good untill i pull again.

i have faultcode F60 - Leerlaufschalter (short circuit or interrupted)
I have measured the Potentionmeter and it is broken. I ordered a new one at Tradition. I hope this is solved then.

3. Water themperature gauge isn’t working, sensor broken. (035919369L) 4 pins. Not available anymore., Can i use a 3 pins or not? Is it bad if this one is broken?
Oil temperture is 120°c when it is 16°c outside, but i made the wires longer of the oil temperature gauge, Maybe it isn’t correctly on the gauge?

does anyone had similair problems?

[steve briance]

I can answer part of this - the 3 pin sensor is a direct replacement for the 4 pin version. Get a genuine one of you can as aftermarket versions vary quite a lot in the reading they give on the dash board, the jp group brand also gave me false overheat warnings on the autocheck system.

I had to translate what the f60 fault code was. Are you 100% sure the wiring to the ecu is good between the switch and ecu? I would probably wait until your replacement TPS arrives as the Idle switch is built into the TPS and you may well fix your fault code with the new part... (it is the later 3 pin TPS units that have built in Idle switch, the 4 pin TPS has external switch you can see)

If you are waiting for the new part to turn up, check the condition of all the wiring plugs in your loom - as the plastic gets old, the plugs can break down and the connections get loose. My Idle switch plug was so bad, the terminals in it moved away from where they should be and my circuit was definitely interrupted.

[Mikes2]

G69 is the poteniometer. F60 is the idle switch. I had that fault on my 7A and it was a broken wire inside the rubber boot to the 2 pin connector for the idle switch

[PeterS]

before going and replacing parts take the time to check the wiring end to end from the idle switch and the potentiometer with an ohm meter. then manually check the potentiometer resistance over its range and also the idle switch separately. Finally, there is an o ring under throttle bypass screw in the throttle body that disintegrates over time which can also mess up the idle and normal engine running.

[steve briance]

When you say engine swap, is this a new engine in a car that was a 7A to Start with or have you fitted the 7A to a car that had something else under the bonnet originally?

A transplant does raise questions over whether the wiring is correct...

[Audi80/90ClubEurope]

Replaced the potentionmeter with a brandnew one from Auditradition, problem was solved. It doesn’t stay in high rpms anymore.
But today i was doing a little drive and on the way back i went untill 6000rpm. At the next trafficlight the rpm’s where bouncing between 1000 and 1400.
If i turn the car off and back on it is normal again.
Took the connector off the ISV when it had the bouncing problem. Didn’t react on that.
Anyone that can tell what is the issue?

[yodasfro]

I 2nd Peter's suggestion of the o-ring on the idle screw.