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  • ABY fuel line replacement.

    Hi, apologies if this has already been dealt with elsewhere. I need to replace the fuel lines on my 1995 ABY S2 - corrosion advisory on recent MOT, but now leaking. Have spoken with various people who have suggested using 8mm copper central heating pipe and 8mm compression fittings. Pipe and fittings now purchased and ready to start. I am intending to replace as much of the existing pipe as possible. I have noticed that there are 3 pipes running from engine bay to rear all clipped together with the original clips which harbour water leading to corroded pipes. My question is are all 3 pipes fuel and if so, what are they all for ? I accept that 2 will be for feed and return, but what is the 3rd line for (assuming it is fuel) ? I will be removing the protective shields tomorrow so hopefully will have a better idea.
    Thanks in advance for any advice.

  • #2
    I did all mine last year. I used 8mm cunifer which is good stuff. The third pipe is the breather for the charcoal filter.
    You can use compression fittings but I got the ends flared and used original fittings so everything was OE. End to end is difficult without stripping the car. I was working on a bare shell. There is a good thread on the forum on how to do it. Have a search.
    Nothelle S2 Avant
    Black Ur project
    Ocianic Ur project gone
    S2 Coupe project gone
    Urs6 plus project gone

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    • #3
      As above. I did them on my CQ, pretty straight forward...….just don't get the pipes mixed up!

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      • #4
        Yeah, cunifer rather than copper. Copper will crack due to vibration eventually...
        Honda CBR 1100XX Blackbird Turbo....undergoing major changes.....
        S2 Coupe... bit easier off the line...
        '03 ZX12-R daily hack.... lots of nice bolt ons...

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        • #5
          Get hold of a rotary pipe cutter for 8mm pipe. You will want to run your copper (or preferably kunifer as it won't crack) as far up into the engine bay as possible to minimise steel piping as far as possible. There isn't much space to swing any other type of pipe cutter up there, rotary type is best fit.

          https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F123147972529

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          • #6
            Thanks for the advice. Rotary pipe cutter bought, copper pipe and fittings returned. Going to get roll of 8mm kunifer - think 7.5m should be enough. Was thinking of using 8mm stainless compression joints, but I do have a brake pipe flaring tool, if that would be a better bet. Unfortunately, I will be doing this on my drive with the car up on axle stands, so should be entertaining !

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            • #7
              Compression joints will make your life easier if you are planning to connect to the old steel pipe as it goes up towards the engine bay. You won't flare that easily as a - it is steel and b - you probably won't get your flaring tool in there!

              Brass compression fittings won't corrode and if they are cheaper than stainless fittings Im not sure why you would go stainless other than for appearance?

              It's a fairly straight forward job, other than access but do one line at a time or mark them so you can't mix them up and all will be good. It won't be as much of a challenge as when I did mine and it was - 3deg c on the driveway! ​​​​​

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              • #8
                https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F111623708409

                These are the joints I used. Others who had done the job recommended the wade brand as being good quality. I've got no experience to say whether or not this is true but they've been on the car years now and are doing the job perfectly. Shop around for best price.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by steve briance View Post
                  but they've been on the car years now and are doing the job perfectly.
                  Thanks for this feedback Steve. I've bought such compression fittings of stainless steel and was doubting to use them. Now I will try certainly.

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                  • #10
                    Hi, thanks for all the feedback, however, I was unable to do the work on my drive so car recovered to RT Sport to do the work. Once there, and with the benefit of a lift, it was found that the fuel lines were not leaking and once the surface 'crap' was removed, the pipes were actually in 'as new' condition. As a result, pipes cleaned up and treated with anti corrosion paint and rubberised coating.
                    Further investigation showed that one of the catalytic converters was cracked on one of the welds and water was being forced out when the car started. The water fell onto the undershield where it mixed with any muck there, before it hit the floor - hence why I thought it may be petrol - that's my excuse and I am sticking to it !!. Even when I had the car jacked up on my drive I was unable to locate the leak.
                    I had a stainless exhaust made up a few years ago and luckily, it has a lifetime guarantee, so back there for repair.
                    Thanks again for everyone's help.

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                    • #11
                      Did the place who treated your fuel lines remove them from their rubber mountings?... The stainless steel spring clip holds the rubber against the chassis and pipes pass through holes in the rubber... So does water... When my pipes started leaking, it turned out they had all but corroded all the way through inside the rubber mount and the pipe fell to bits when I took it off. The good news is your pipes were in good order but at the very least, I would have a look / squirt some thin penetrating cavity wax into each side of the rubber mounts so it creeps in and protects What you can't see.
                      Attached Files
                      Last edited by steve briance; 16 November 2019, 21:27.

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                      • #12
                        Thanks for the info Steve. I would have expected him to have removed the clips - he is used to preparing cars for racing. Will have a check though once I get the car back.

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