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ABY fuel line replacement.

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  • ABY fuel line replacement.

    Hi, apologies if this has already been dealt with elsewhere. I need to replace the fuel lines on my 1995 ABY S2 - corrosion advisory on recent MOT, but now leaking. Have spoken with various people who have suggested using 8mm copper central heating pipe and 8mm compression fittings. Pipe and fittings now purchased and ready to start. I am intending to replace as much of the existing pipe as possible. I have noticed that there are 3 pipes running from engine bay to rear all clipped together with the original clips which harbour water leading to corroded pipes. My question is are all 3 pipes fuel and if so, what are they all for ? I accept that 2 will be for feed and return, but what is the 3rd line for (assuming it is fuel) ? I will be removing the protective shields tomorrow so hopefully will have a better idea.
    Thanks in advance for any advice.

  • #2
    I did all mine last year. I used 8mm cunifer which is good stuff. The third pipe is the breather for the charcoal filter.
    You can use compression fittings but I got the ends flared and used original fittings so everything was OE. End to end is difficult without stripping the car. I was working on a bare shell. There is a good thread on the forum on how to do it. Have a search.
    Nothelle S2 Avant in restoration

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    • #3
      As above. I did them on my CQ, pretty straight forward...….just don't get the pipes mixed up!

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      • #4
        Yeah, cunifer rather than copper. Copper will crack due to vibration eventually...
        Honda CBR 1100XX Blackbird Turbo....undergoing major changes.....
        S2 Coupe... bit easier off the line...
        '03 ZX12-R daily hack.... lots of nice bolt ons...

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        • #5
          Get hold of a rotary pipe cutter for 8mm pipe. You will want to run your copper (or preferably kunifer as it won't crack) as far up into the engine bay as possible to minimise steel piping as far as possible. There isn't much space to swing any other type of pipe cutter up there, rotary type is best fit.

          https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F123147972529

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          • #6
            Thanks for the advice. Rotary pipe cutter bought, copper pipe and fittings returned. Going to get roll of 8mm kunifer - think 7.5m should be enough. Was thinking of using 8mm stainless compression joints, but I do have a brake pipe flaring tool, if that would be a better bet. Unfortunately, I will be doing this on my drive with the car up on axle stands, so should be entertaining !

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            • #7
              Compression joints will make your life easier if you are planning to connect to the old steel pipe as it goes up towards the engine bay. You won't flare that easily as a - it is steel and b - you probably won't get your flaring tool in there!

              Brass compression fittings won't corrode and if they are cheaper than stainless fittings Im not sure why you would go stainless other than for appearance?

              It's a fairly straight forward job, other than access but do one line at a time or mark them so you can't mix them up and all will be good. It won't be as much of a challenge as when I did mine and it was - 3deg c on the driveway! ​​​​​

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              • #8
                https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F111623708409

                These are the joints I used. Others who had done the job recommended the wade brand as being good quality. I've got no experience to say whether or not this is true but they've been on the car years now and are doing the job perfectly. Shop around for best price.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by steve briance View Post
                  but they've been on the car years now and are doing the job perfectly.
                  Thanks for this feedback Steve. I've bought such compression fittings of stainless steel and was doubting to use them. Now I will try certainly.

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