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7a aftermarket ecu loom build

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  • 7a aftermarket ecu loom build

    so i am building the plug and play adapter for the loom on my 7a (no i am not buildding a full engine loom before it is said) but i am having a bit of trouble figuring out how to connect a few of the sensors manly the knock and crank snensor i thoght id ask for some help on the matter as im not sure what to do?
    here are the info on the ecu pins i have if anyone has a better pin out for the 2 block 7a ecu it would probably help as well and the aftermarket ecu is the emu black

  • #2
    Yawn. I give up offering what I know.
    Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
    Indigo ABY coupé
    Imola B6 S4 Avant

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    • #3
      sorry but what do you know you just keep telling me to buy a s2 when i have asked your advice on somthing you ignore me as it goes once agen i figuring it out my problems. you dont have to like what i am doing but so help would be nice (that isnt buy a s2)

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      • #4


        yeah, what do I know.

        I posted advice in your threads.
        I reply to your PMs.
        I give you my number to discuss all of your questions.

        You ask for advice, and then completely ignore it.
        Then you bitch about how you’re not getting any help.

        Let me guess, you’re a millennial?

        Good luck
        Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
        Indigo ABY coupé
        Imola B6 S4 Avant

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        • #5
          I dont want to offender you thats not what im here for i completely understand you know more than my about these cars but unless i have missed somthing i have no number or dms from you i havent ment to ignore you advice but i do fill that you kept telling my the same thing about it not being worth it after i had explaned my goals.
          i realy am sorry to have upset you it was not my intentions and i hope that you may still be willing to shere you knowledge

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          • #6
            The knock sensors and crank reference (VR) sensors must be shielded to protect against EMI (Like a Faraday cage)
            On the factory diagrams the loops around the signal and ground wires indicate the braided shield - this must be sunk to ground, usually a specific shield ground pin on the ECU, alternatively a chassis ground.
            The sensor ground MUST always be connected to the dedicated ECU sensor ground and never to the chassis ground or you risk creating a voltage offset on your sensor signal = big problems.
            The Audi cam/sync sensor is a hall-effect sensor and so requires +5v sensor reference, sensor ground and signal output, like an analog sensor.

            The Audi 3 sensor trigger system is a little quirky and you will need to check which input the Audi crank speed (flywheel teeth) sensor needs to be connected to.for the 5cyl specific trigger decoder.


            Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
            Indigo ABY coupé
            Imola B6 S4 Avant

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            • #7
              thank for the help if you wouldn't mide could you look over the pin out i have bean making and see if it looks right to you and if you can fill in any of the blanks?
              also i think the new ecu dose not need the reference crank sensor as i think it only uses the engine speed but i am trying to talk to the company about that as im not sure
              one other thing is i dont know which way to wire up the coolent temp sensor as it gets live and earth from the ecu?
              thanks

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              • #8
                The ECU will need something to reference TDC. On the factory set-up this is achieved with the crank-side flywheel pin and G4 sensor. The flywheel tooth sensor G28) measures engine speed.
                A more conventional trigger system will often use a single crank sensor, but will have a crank angle reference point (e.g. a 60-2 wheel).
                The ECT sensor is a thermistor (ECU measures resistance). It is not polarity sensitive - wire to the ECT sensor input and sensor ground. Likewise for IAT.

                Have you found the PCB header connectors and terminals to make the car-side of your adapter? If not you could be wasting your time. Why not just terminate your old harness directly to a connector for your ECU?
                Panthero Coupé quattro 20vt
                Indigo ABY coupé
                Imola B6 S4 Avant

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                • #9
                  T,

                  Re: Stock ECU pin-out, 3 questions...

                  a) IIUC, you are working towards building a plug and play adapter (to connect an non-modified 2-plug 7A ECU loom to an aftermarket ECU), to be used on an (otherwise internally stock?) 7A motor, correct?

                  b) If yes, and if you have not seen the attached, this drwg. may help. With this drwg.'s male plug "pin-in" numbered locations and the function list in your post above (which, WRT loom pin numbers & functions, to my eye appears complete (save for the MAF & O2 listings (you have your reasons, correct?)) & accurate (save for injector #2 which perhaps should read 6 vs currently 4) against the factory literature), does this not obviate the need for ECU pin-out numbers?

                  c) Lastly, if you haven't got another set already, would a scrap ECM's connectors possibly make your task simpler by automatically offering-up the correct connections?

                  Interesting project sir. Please say something about what advantage(s?) over what the stock arrangement might allow, that you are aiming to achieve with your proposed new ECM, thanks.

                  Hth.

                  20V 7A MPI Control Unit Connectors, from page 40, Audi Service Training Manual WSP=521-200-00.png
                  Last edited by Lago Blue; 7th December 2019, 18:50.

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                  • #10
                    i am building a 7a turbo and as a resault the stock ecu is to basic and wont work correctly. i have taken a second ecu 2 connector ecu and removed the connectros from the bords and will run the wires from the ecu side of the pins to the new multi plugs for the new ecu thats why i have done the pin to pin thing is so it should make it easer to wire up. and as for the maf and lambder i have a lsu 4.9 wide band lambder for a lot better control and will use the on bord 4 bar map sensor to replace the maf and control the boost.
                    the ecu came with a card with the pins for the wide band and that is why its not on the pin out im making
                    hope i coverd all your qustions

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