MC/KG engine questions

[RDs]

So I've been trying to make proper to-do list on my 90Q project so that I wouldn't run into classical ''while I'm at it'' issue. However one thing that is still unanswered is engine. Currently I have 2.3NG with stock injection. On paper it's reliable engine for long rides if injection system is replaced however power is bit of a lackluster and raising power on NA non crossflow engine is not worthwhile. I was looking into adding more power and 10vt sounded like a good choice, however I can't seem to find any info on the finished product apart from some graphs so I have couple of questions
What's the fuel consumption you get once you raise power? My goal is 300HP which from what Ive heard is doable without upgrading pistons and rods.
Is engine reliable for long rides at that power lever, or is it only good for short trips on track? Ive heard endless stories of blown head gaskets and other funny things happening even at 200hp range.
Whats the approximate cost of build? Looking for pure ballpark numbers, from what Ive gathered 20vt 600hp+ build usually goes for about 8k minimum, have no info about 10vt.

Would be greatfull for any other info regarding such swap.
Thanks in advance!

[De80q]

I have a 1991 80q with a MC1 from an 86 typ44. I did convert mine to EFI with megasquirt, and now that it's tuned properly, runs amazing.

I'm currently running 22psi from a K24 which should have me right around 300 crank HP.

I have driven more than 8 hours nearly non stop with no issues. While cruising at around 70MPH (113kph) it was getting just under 30 miles per gallon(12.75 KM per liter). I have been quite happy with the economy while not hard on the accelerator, and the power when I want it.

As far as price goes, the problem is I'm in the US, and it the prices for things here are way different than over there. As for the head gasket, I used an AAN metal gasket on mine, and it's not given me a problem yet.

[RDs]

Hey hey, long time since Ive been here. I hope everyones doing great.
Covid passed over and I finally got funds and time to get the donor engine. The old 90q with NG is still holding on, the exaust decided to leak in every place possible including header side so after fixing that it gave me more reasons to move this swap faster.

The engine in hand is A100 FL MC1 with k26. This is plan so far:

• Go through entire block, and replace regular things like pistons bearings and seals
• Leave stock head (Ill leave NF swap for later once I get the engine running) and do all the little fixes there.
• Replace the CIS injection with speeduino 0.3.
• Leave stock externals like turbine and exaust manifold. Basically get it running as Is before doing any major upgrades.

After doing some research I'm still missing couple of puzzle peaces. Any info would be aprechiated.

1. What clutch disk and press plate should I use. I was told that c3 and b3 gearboxes have different number of splines on gearbox side however flywheel should be fine. Thus an s2 clutch is needed. Can anyone verify this? I will keep stock b3 NG quattro gearbox for now.
2. What is the most reasonable fuel rail on market. I know 034 motosport one used to have issues. Are they fixed?
3. Is there anyone who has managed in practice get engine in without removing battery box/shelf. I know WG will hit it, however I was tinkering with idea of pushing it sideways or doing different shenanigans. I'm even ready to go as far as make battery box removable.

Thats it for now. Would be happy for any suggestions, ideas and **** and bits I should check on.

[89 Coupe]

It's going to be refreshing to see a 10 valve build, totally rad that it's going in your b3 90! Hope you take lots of pictures.

Are you using an 016 or 01A gearbox? A 7a clutch comes to mind, someone correct me if I'm wrong?

[K Simmonds]

I was going to do this with an MC2 engine into a B2 quattro but simply didn't have the time and money once I got my S2 on the road so sold the car and the engine some years ago.

The 10VT motors are pretty underrated as long as you can do away with K-jet system, which is no problem these days.

I think you'll have to move the battery to either the boot or under the rear seat on a LHD car, you might be able to make it fit but I'd be uncomfortable with the amount of heat the battery will be subject to on that side of the engine bay.

Use an S2 or 7A clutch, this can be made to work using your NG flywheel.

The MC1/2 rods and pistons are very strong if the engine is low KM's I'd be inclined to change the head gasket and leave everything else alone. Obviously inspect the shells on the crank but if they're not worn then I can't really see the point in replacing them and disturbing everything else.

What condition it's in will depend on the KM's and how well the engine was maintained. The main bearings always wear out before the big ends so check them first and go from there.

Change the front and rear crank seals as a matter of course but when it comes to bearings don't try and fix what isn't broken.

[igor136]

Beautiful engine. The sound is better than at 20v.

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[RDs]

Thanks everyone for replies. Especially De80q who I forgot to thank to.

It's going to be refreshing to see a 10 valve build, totally rad that it's going in your b3 90! Hope you take lots of pictures.

Are you using an 016 or 01A gearbox? A 7a clutch comes to mind, someone correct me if I'm wrong?

Idk, I think this is pretty generic swap similar to 20vt 90's. Though usually this is done with b2 KG engines whos CIS airboxes are almost direct fit. In this instance however ill be droping that monster for some simple EFI

I think you'll have to move the battery to either the boot or under the rear seat on a LHD car, you might be able to make it fit but I'd be uncomfortable with the amount of heat the battery will be subject to on that side of the engine bay.

Yep this is what I'm trying to avoid. Ive seen this done on 20vt swaps before. After some more looking only way I see now is some custom peaces to move WG downwards. However that makes getting to gearbox nuts and bolts PITA. There is space on left side where airbox usually is, but pipe ends in complete wrong side. I guess Ill revisit this topic once I get closer to putting engine in car. Removing something is easy, welding it back is hard.

Use an S2 or 7A clutch, this can be made to work using your NG flywheel.

Thanks for info. Ill check if there isn't small differences in notches. Ill be using 60-2 trigger, but I want to keep auditrigger as backup.

The MC1/2 rods and pistons are very strong if the engine is low KM's I'd be inclined to change the head gasket and leave everything else alone. Obviously inspect the shells on the crank but if they're not worn then I can't really see the point in replacing them and disturbing everything else.

What condition it's in will depend on the KM's and how well the engine was maintained. The main bearings always wear out before the big ends so check them first and go from there.

Change the front and rear crank seals as a matter of course but when it comes to bearings don't try and fix what isn't broken.

Yep, until I won't open the engine it's a cat in the bag. Car this came from was ~270k km's (could easly be 300+ knowing eastern block countries) and has been turned on rarely like once a year for past 5 years. The CIS injection is sompletley dead. But it worked on LPG system (sadly it's hard to find LPG-less motor here)

(volume warning)
I'm leaning towards changing all the valve seats and hidraulic lifters, however leaving valves alone if they do sealing job. But love to hear opinions. Bearings I've heard in past are not worth changing if they are good inside. But we will see. I would love to clean out the sludge in oil channels for additional safety, god knows what oil was used in 90's when we had fuel shortage.

Beautiful engine. The sound is better than at 20v.

Can't agree more.

Ill do build topic in some colder winter day.

[De80q]

With my setup I'm using a very old style 034 fuel rail. I had to weld the end fitting on it, so they didn't leak. I also made my own mounting system, and the biggest problem with the 034 fuel rail is the mounting panels they have for it.

As for a clutch, I'm not sure what is all available over there, but in the states, the only flywheel that works with the 01A transmission, and keep the Audi trigger system it the 7A 20v flywheel. This means any clutch that would fit that engine, will work. I'm currently running a SPEC stage3 clutch, and wouldn't recommend a 6 puck style clutch for a daily driver.

As for the battery, I didn't try very hard, but I moved mine to the trunk. Made more room under the hood, and moves a large chunk of weight to the back. These cars are nose heavy enough.

My MC1 had almost 300k miles on it. I was shocked at the condition of the internals. They were in very nice condition, even still had the cross hash honeing marks in the bore still.

[RDs]

Hello
Some time has past, at this point I could say this need a build thread as facebook isn't doing us the justice.

Started disassembling the engine to make it lighter to finally move it to garage that car is in and do all the little things to do swap in ''one constant swoop''
image_88115.jpg image_88114.jpg
I have this odd commitment to make this engine work with old exhaust seeing that b2CQ community has had some luck with welding the manifold so I'm still fighting for every last bolt. So far, 2 out of 5 exaust pins have snapped, will change tactics and pray lower side does better.

Started collecting parts and realized that it would be shame to not change piston rings and rod bearings. Seeing that spare parts market has gone completely nuts with white labels I wanted to ask. Does anyone have a brand they can recommend for for engine parts individually? That is I'm looking for everything, rings, valves, valve stem seals, rod bearings, water pump, head gasket, head bolts. Shoot, if there is any reason to keep stock parts instead of replacing them, let me know, any money I save I can put somewhere else in engine. Reminder for context, engine will mostly stay stock, stock turbine, stock exhaust, stock head. Just modern ecu, coils and slight tune and raise of boost to amp up power a bit. The more reliable I can make the engine the better.

Would be greatfull for any info or experience.