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Head Gasket can of worms???

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  • Fat Audi 80
    replied
    Originally posted by s2driveruk View Post
    Is is not possible to just pull one of the rubber lines to the fuel filter and drain from there or does the pump lift the fuel to get there anyway?
    The pump needs to be "on" for the fuel to emerge from the tank. This was indeed my original plan.

    I have a new fuel pump to go on, so will do that and probably drain the tank from there whilst it is out.....

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  • s2driveruk
    replied
    Is is not possible to just pull one of the rubber lines to the fuel filter and drain from there or does the pump lift the fuel to get there anyway?

    Leave a comment:


  • Fat Audi 80
    replied
    Thanks chaps!

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  • johne
    replied
    Steve, there's no need to go into opening the tank or buying a pump. 20 Litres will fit nicely into a Jerry can and you can keep it for all those cleaning jobs you may have coming up.

    To drain the tank, open up the feed line to the inlet manifold in the engine bay and use a piece of hose to direct it into your Jerry can. Pull the fuel pump fuse and feed 12 volts into the fuel pump circuit using a male lucar. The fuel pump will pump out your tank for you in a surprisingly quick time, just be ready to turn it off when the tank is empty so you don't run it dry.

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  • newsh
    replied
    Then dilute it with fresh stuff and use it in the lawn mower

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  • Tractor Dave
    replied



    Me doing mine last year.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • Tractor Dave
    replied
    Originally posted by Fat Audi 80 View Post
    Bad news is that I still have running issues which I am convinced is some seriously stale fuel. Only option now seems to be drain the tank and refuel with clean petrol.

    I have been quoted £190 + vat to drain the tank. Anyone have any good suggestions for draining 20 litres of crap fuel myself? (How do I dispose of it?)

    cheers

    Steve
    Yes!
    Pop to TKmax and buy the cheap fluid transfer pump they sell. It's orange in colour with two long pipes. Remove the fuel pump cap in the boot and pump out into suitable containers. Get right down into the pump pick up area and you will find substantial crud there. Wipe out dregs with clean cloths.
    However, unless your petrol is over 3 years old or you filled with E10 in the last year, I doubt that's the issue. The Coupe I recently bought has three year old super in it and it's running ok, if a little lumpy.

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  • Fat Audi 80
    replied
    Bad news is that I still have running issues which I am convinced is some seriously stale fuel. Only option now seems to be drain the tank and refuel with clean petrol.

    I have been quoted £190 + vat to drain the tank. Anyone have any good suggestions for draining 20 litres of crap fuel myself? (How do I dispose of it?)

    cheers

    Steve

    Leave a comment:


  • Fat Audi 80
    replied
    Yes - Rob Walker now Fiennes Engineering. Very happy with them. It wasn't cheap, but you get what you pay for!

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  • s2driveruk
    replied
    Great news. Did you use rob walker in the end Steve, any thoughts on recommending?

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  • newsh
    replied
    Good news!

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  • Fat Audi 80
    replied
    UPDATE!

    The car is all back together now and started first time! It has a lumpy idle which is either the old petrol or possibly the coilpacks. I am going to do some more investigation this weekend and then take her for an MOT on Friday.

    Fingers crossed we will be back on the road in a week....

    Thanks to all for the help and advice along the way, it has been tough but very satisfying!

    Cheers

    Steve

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  • Fat Audi 80
    replied
    As far as I know the head has never been off. My car only has two previous owners, so I think I can be almost 100% certain this will be its first opening. I am going to take my time and probably send it here for evaluation and refurb:

    http://www.robwalkerengineering.co.uk/

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  • steve briance
    replied
    The head on my car is at the minimum skimming thickness as per the book and probably doesn't have any skimming meat left on it. Ive no idea how many times it had been skimmed as it wasn't my original head.

    When I rebuilt it, I was concerned about the valves getting close to the pistons in TDC and did a lot of testing to verify. I test installed a solid lifter to remove any doubt over valve lift with a partially filled hydraulic tappet and laid a plasticine snake over the valve area on my piston. Turning engine over twice to make sure I hit TDC with valve open and look at the squish in the plasticine... There was plenty of space left there so I pressed on and installed it.

    What appears to be the issue with max head skimming is aligning the static timing marks in rebuild. I ended up getting a tommi's billet cam pulley and had to apply 4 degrees to get everything lined up. Can't remember if it was + or - degrees but it was definitely 4.

    If your head isn't warped, think carefully about what ends up being taken off. There is no reason it would be warped unless it has been catastrophically overheated or not bolted down properly.

    A smooth finish is best for sealing so seek more of a polish than skim. If there is such a thing.


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  • Fat Audi 80
    replied
    Originally posted by s0_big View Post
    Here is what the AAN work shop manual says about distortion of the head.
    45764-1cb2bf6b1728cd1285176ce2de9e50fa.jpg
    Great thanks!

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