Sorry for a bit lengthy post but I want to include as much relevant info as possible.
Jump down to 'In short' for a quick read.
Background:
This is an issue that has developed progressively.
When I drove the car to winter storage last year (and the month leading up to that) the engine would overheat on Idle/Cruising/Low RPM.
If I kept the engine at >3000 rpm in combination with moving car the temperature dropped down to near normal temperatures.
My first theory was that I knew I had a leakage somewhere and that over time it had created some nasty air locks.
Actions taken:
I have recently fixed my leak at water manifold.
The system is vacuum tested and pressure tested to 1.5 bar for near an hour.
No vacuum drop and no pressure drop.
I filled the coolant with this kind of kit:
If you are unfamiliar on how these types of vacuum fillers work look here:
Current situation:
The engine will still overheat.
My ECU uses the sender on the back of the head and will rise to 110-120 C and climbing if I leave it.
The cluster gauge sees ~90-95 in these cases climbing upwards and lagging behind the ECU sensor.
The fan doesn't come on because the temp on the lower end of the rad is cooler.
There's no heat from the heater matrix.
Engine bay gets very very hot if I let it sit like this
It's almost like the water sits stationary in the system.
In short:
Could it be that my water pump impeller has broken down? I think it is plastic.
Or is it just the thermostat stuck on closed position?
What brands should I get for these parts?
Jump down to 'In short' for a quick read.
Background:
This is an issue that has developed progressively.
When I drove the car to winter storage last year (and the month leading up to that) the engine would overheat on Idle/Cruising/Low RPM.
If I kept the engine at >3000 rpm in combination with moving car the temperature dropped down to near normal temperatures.
My first theory was that I knew I had a leakage somewhere and that over time it had created some nasty air locks.
Actions taken:
I have recently fixed my leak at water manifold.
The system is vacuum tested and pressure tested to 1.5 bar for near an hour.
No vacuum drop and no pressure drop.
I filled the coolant with this kind of kit:
If you are unfamiliar on how these types of vacuum fillers work look here:
Current situation:
The engine will still overheat.
My ECU uses the sender on the back of the head and will rise to 110-120 C and climbing if I leave it.
The cluster gauge sees ~90-95 in these cases climbing upwards and lagging behind the ECU sensor.
The fan doesn't come on because the temp on the lower end of the rad is cooler.
There's no heat from the heater matrix.
Engine bay gets very very hot if I let it sit like this
It's almost like the water sits stationary in the system.
In short:
- System should free of air pockets
- No leaks
- Radiator nearly new Behr
- No aux rad
- No heat in cabin, matrix hoses cool
- Thermostat hose cooler than the top
- Expansion tank is cool
- Engine gets stinking hot
Could it be that my water pump impeller has broken down? I think it is plastic.
Or is it just the thermostat stuck on closed position?
What brands should I get for these parts?
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