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  • #16
    On a new engine there should not be any wear , to get the engine to set it self that i understand , when you break in a engine and you want power and thats you goal you should not be gently when reving and driving the after the start up ,, thats why i belive you should have synthetic so you have correct lubricant ,, i have not experinced that engines smoke when using synthetic oil at start up


    • #17
      if you want a long lasting engine, your best of running it in with mineral oil. If you just want power and an oil burner put synthetic in an rag the hell out of it from day1


      • #18
        to bead in the rings you need mineral oil do not use synthetic oil. Do not go over 4500rpm too much and not lower than 15000 ,do not let it idle. Run it like this for 300/400 km drain oil put a fresh synthetic and you ready .


        • #19
          I understand the concept of the thinking behind it , but people how build a new engine with new stand system ,, you put it on the dyno ,, starting MAP , fix the idle ,, then you run it for a while at different RPMS ,, then after your starting to program and then floor it. Nothing strange with that.
          When you build new fast sportcars , they dont bead in the rings for 300/400km ,,,, they start full pulls pretty soon after start to check it.

          The reason for mineral oil as i have read her is to run in the car faster. To get the rings to set faster.
          Why should the rings set faster with mineral oil ?
          I mean the rings are the only thing that needs to set it self nothing else.
          There is still a oil film on the cylinder walls ,, if mineral or not , its still a oil film.
          The rings does not touch the pure metal of the cylinder walls , if it would , well , metal against metal , it would make tracks at once.

          So im trying to understand , in the scientific way how the difference between mineral and synthetic is so big.
          Both have lubrication. And there is still a film between the ring and the wall.


          • #20
            The synthetic oil is deemed too slippery to allow all the microscopic surface imperfection detail of new machined or manufactured parts to smooth themselves down in operation.

            In the example of piston rings, the mineral oil does allow the smoothing down to occur and this is what creates good ring to bore sealing allows the engine to generate good compression and burn less oil.

            Modern car engines and certainly the old block I had bored out a couple of years ago have a surface finish on the bores called 'plateau' honing.

            This is the name for a surface smoothness created by very fine machining work. This allows a quicker bedding in process because virtually all the microscopic surface imperfections have already gone.

            This is why you observe new cars going for it from day 1 with no ill effects - They are almost there anyway! ​​​​

            When I first ran my new engine, I had cheap oil in it and gave it quite a lot of throttle because it is the combustion pressures which force the rings out into contact with the bores (the spring tension of a new piston ring is virtually nothing in comparison to the combustion forces acting on it) and this is what you want to be happening to make sure they are settling in WHERE THEY WILL BE once in day to day service. A few hundred miles of that and in went the good oil and I have 14.7bar compression across all 5 cylinders and no oil loss.

            This won't help the original poster with his tappets but does help anyone wondering about running in rings.