Again this is taken from a previous thread but is this confirmed the correct diode required -
bzw06.pdf
If so any ideas where the best place to source one would be?
bzw06.pdf
If so any ideas where the best place to source one would be?
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20210610_201357.jpg 20210610_201330.jpg Evening gents,
Tonights job was to remove the suspect diode and test as well as to confirm exact part number.
I've tried the diode and resistance settings on my multimeter and getting Zero readings on either. I'm guessing I should be getting at least something in one direction or another??
Markings on diode are ST BZW0619B C434
Found some available here but on back order-
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/tvs-diodes/7146995/
Hopefully won't have to wait too long for them!Comment
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Tried the ECU with this completely removed and it's doing exactly the same as before, ok until the ignition is turned on then fuse 27 blows!!! Fingers crossed for an easy fix once this is replaced??Comment
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Alright gents.
Since these resistors are on back order i decided to purchase a spare ECU to try in the mean time.
ECU arrived today, plugged it in, turned ignition on and happy days no fuse 27 blowing. Went to turn the ignition one further turn to start the car and lost all power. There was no power to the dash, engine wouldn't turn over etc. Checked all the fuses and none blown, several minutes later power came back on so went to try to start the car again and same happened.
Disconnected the battery, went for lunch and tried again an hour later. As soon as I connected the battery power was established, went for a start and same again, lost all power to the dash, engine wont turn over. Completely dead. Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery straight away does not reset the power issue, it's needs to be left for a while then works again. Battery voltage is 12.3v so no issues there.
What could be causing this, do you think it's related to fuse 27 blowing in the first place?
Oh I just love electrical gremlins!!!!
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Ignition switch fault?Nothelle S2 Avant
Black Ur project
Silver Rs2 Project gone
Ocianic Ur project gone
S2 Coupe project gone
Urs6 plus project goneComment
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Well this was a simple one, the negative battery lead hadn't been tightened so nipped up and all sorted.
Ignition on, no fuses blowing, started first turn. Yippee!!
So at least that confirms the ECU at fault. Now to try and figure out what's wrong with the old one??
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I was on the edge of my seat reading your previous post, glad the ecu is working.sigpic_________
RobComment
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Cheers for the ECU Robo, much appreciated.
Yeh I was kind of nervous turning the ignition on for the first time only to be confronted with a new issue!! Thankfully it was just me being a numpty!!
I've been out testing my battery voltage with car running and found it to be around 13.6v-13.7v at the battery, directly at the alternator around 13.9v. It seems to stay at the reading with no real fluctuations as the engine is revved, so it looks to me that the regulator is doing it's thing.
I find it strange that the ECU would have shorted out like that whilst just cruising along. It's still the original alternator, I hadn't jumped started the car or had a charger on it prior to the day it failed so can't really explain it??
Has anyone else's ECU just randomly died like this without any outside influences?Last edited by gmac78; 16 June 2021, 20:13.Comment
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Do not start engine with battery not propper conected .. and no battery booster .Comment
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Did you note down the D901 diode model number by any chance?Comment
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Is the BZW0619B diode not the D900 diode?
The D901 starts with B7WComment
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Jesus I'm a dumbass, probably a misprinted Z on my doide makes it look like a 7.
Does that mean that both D900 and D901 are the same?Comment
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No they're different, one is a Bi-directional diode, they other a Uni-directional.Comment
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