RS2 - Oil Warning Light at Idle - 1.0 bar

[rustybullethole]

The complete Oil Pump assembly was replaced when the motor was refreshed. That was less than 5k ago so I don't think anything would be wore out. Inside was spotless as stated above and everything looked great in there.

Oh ok, nice one, yes i think it would be ok at just 5k miles.

[Bimmerod]

The only thing worth checking when stripping down the relief valve and spring is the cleanliness but also the spring length/tension agains a new standard one, which should be available from Audi. If your relief has been relieving oil and operating for over 100k miles or more it could become less tensioned by now and might need to be re-newed. I doubt a new spring would be expensive and even it it were its still worth buying one, in fact i would purchase a new valve too.

The complete Oil Pump assembly was replaced when the motor was refreshed. That was less than 5k ago so I don't think anything would be wore out. Inside was spotless as stated above and everything looked great in there.

[rustybullethole]

All you can do really is take the relive valve apart and clean it, so I'm sure it fine especially as it's a brand new pump.

As I say in my post you've quoted it's far more important for the oil pressure to increase with revs that what it's sat at idle, as long as it stays as it is I really wouldn't worry about it.

The only thing worth checking when stripping down the relief valve and spring is the cleanliness but also the spring length/tension agains a new standard one, which should be available from Audi. If your relief has been relieving oil and operating for over 100k miles or more it could become less tensioned by now and might need to be re-newed. I doubt a new spring would be expensive and even it it were its still worth buying one, in fact i would purchase a new valve too.

[Bimmerod]

1 bar at idle is perfectly fine, mine has done that for more than 100,000 miles and still trucking along at nearly 250K miles.

Great to hear that Bowie, appreciate the response.

[Bowie69]

1 bar at idle is perfectly fine, mine has done that for more than 100,000 miles and still trucking along at nearly 250K miles.

[K Simmonds]

All you can do really is take the relive valve apart and clean it, so I'm sure it fine especially as it's a brand new pump.

As I say in my post you've quoted it's far more important for the oil pressure to increase with revs that what it's sat at idle, as long as it stays as it is I really wouldn't worry about it.

[Bimmerod]

The pressure relief valve is mentioned on the first page, not sure if the OP has taken a look at it or not though.

A good friend of mine purchased an RS2 with oil pressure problems not entirely dissimilar to this, though it was tripping the high pressure switch as well as showing generally low pressure, readings confirmed with a mechanical gauge. That turned out to be a defective oil pump and had at Will at VRS nearly tearing his hair out (not that he's got much) as well as me totally stumped as we couldn't ever really find anything wrong with the old pump or relief valve.

Anyway, once he installed a replacement pump the car showed 1.0-.1.3 bar oil pressure at hot idle and ran perfectly, as soon as the rev's picked up the oil pressure shot up to very healthy levels so we considered it fixed. Me and Will discussed this and came to the conclusion that adequate flow is far more important the max pressure at idle so whilst it's reassuring for the pressure gauge to read 1.8-2.0 bar this is not essential, the pressure picking up with rev's is far more important.

I drove that RS2 hard over 1000 miles to Scotland and back and is was the freest revving, quickest stock example I've had the pleasure of driving, it dyno tested at something like 316 bhp so wasn't chipped but certainly very healthy.

Haven't mentioned this until now as I didn't want to muddy the water's and cause further confusion.

My NG engine Coupe (same basic block) which I owned from 160K miles to 240K miles also always displayed 1.0-1.2 bar at hot idle and never gave me any problems and I used to hammer the crap out of that to make up for the lack of power.

I did remove the relief valve and spring. All internal components were spotless and appear to be in perfect working order. The oil pump was a brand new OEM Audi unit.

Here is a copy of the receipt and pump that was purchased-
IMG_9017.jpgNot sure what else I could do once I removed and inspected it?

[K Simmonds]

The pressure relief valve is mentioned on the first page, not sure if the OP has taken a look at it or not though.

A good friend of mine purchased an RS2 with oil pressure problems not entirely dissimilar to this, though it was tripping the high pressure switch as well as showing generally low pressure, readings confirmed with a mechanical gauge. That turned out to be a defective oil pump and had at Will at VRS nearly tearing his hair out (not that he's got much) as well as me totally stumped as we couldn't ever really find anything wrong with the old pump or relief valve.

Anyway, once he installed a replacement pump the car showed 1.0-.1.3 bar oil pressure at hot idle and ran perfectly, as soon as the rev's picked up the oil pressure shot up to very healthy levels so we considered it fixed. Me and Will discussed this and came to the conclusion that adequate flow is far more important the max pressure at idle so whilst it's reassuring for the pressure gauge to read 1.8-2.0 bar this is not essential, the pressure picking up with rev's is far more important.

I drove that RS2 hard over 1000 miles to Scotland and back and is was the freest revving, quickest stock example I've had the pleasure of driving, it dyno tested at something like 316 bhp so wasn't chipped but certainly very healthy.

Haven't mentioned this until now as I didn't want to muddy the water's and cause further confusion.

My NG engine Coupe (same basic block) which I owned from 160K miles to 240K miles also always displayed 1.0-1.2 bar at hot idle and never gave me any problems and I used to hammer the crap out of that to make up for the lack of power.

[M_GORDON]

Hi guys.
why anyone said that he can leave temp sensor and clean the spring and valve?

Maybe de spring isn't in good condition, or valve is dirty.

[K Simmonds]

Well, that's good news.

As I said I said before 1.0 bar is still well within the safe zone so as long as it stays there that's fine, this does show the F22 was the problem as well so nothing major just a fiddle **** of a job. But at least you can get back to enjoying the car now spring is here.

Yep, we have crow's foot spanners as we call them here (I do like the term wrench though), I have to confess that's one tool I don't actually own a set of myself, we do have them at work but it's very rare we have to use them. Perfect for this job though.

[Bimmerod]

Finally got a chance to work on the RS2 today. I was able to get the electric fan and shroud out after some tweaking. It is so close to the ABS lines but after loosening the front radiator support I was able to maneuver it out of the way. Then you have better access to the sensors which are a pain in the *** to get to

I ended up using a "Crowfoot" wrench in order to get in that tight space. It worked very well all things considered doing this job. I'm sure they got these in the UK, right ?

20220402_150816.jpg

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After getting everything back together, my hot idle pressure is still at 1.0-1.1 bar on the gauge but it seems as though the warning message is now gone. I was only able to run it for about 30 minutes with only a couple trips around the block but it seems to be fixed as no buzzer or light ever came on.

Both sensors that were in there were FAE brand so they must have been replaced at some point in the past. That was pretty much all I could replace them with so let's hope no future problems. Lord know I do not want to take this apart again

Thanks again for all the help with this, appreciate all the support.

[K Simmonds]

That’s interesting, the one Rikki has posted a pic of looks like the one for a T4 Transporter, in fact I’m almost certain it is, I still have one at home left over from my old work van, would have to check the part number to be sure though. If it’s the right one I’ll give it a whirl on my RS2 next time I drop the oil out, the extra surface area inside should in theory help keep the oil clean for longer and the extra exterior surface area aid cooling.

[Bimmerod]

Try this one out I've been using them for a few years now seems happier with more oil

The MANN part number for what I used is W940/25 which is a little different than the picture above.
W940-25-2.jpg?1496445461.jpg
The one you posted might be a little longer but very similar.

[Rikki Kitto]

Try this one out I've been using them for a few years now seems happier with more oil

[Rikki Kitto]

Think it helps keep the oil a little cooler too, I'll check when I get home what part number is