Cam belt change

[Rikki Kitto]

After taking the front apart to chase down the non start fault I've been looking at the cam belt with growing suspicion sure it got done within the last 40,000 miles but if its been contaminated with oil and has micro cracks sure it should be changed. What's your thoughts peeps ?

[K Simmonds]

Yes, change it mate, it's one of those parts that one simply doesn't take any risks with.

[Rikki Kitto]

My thoughts too just need a list of parts now and suppliers

[Tractor Dave]

Yes, get it changed, and the water pump and tensioner as well. New anti freeze and thermostat while you are there. Might as well change the alternator and pas belts too. And while you have the rocker cover off, check the chain for play and replace if necessary. The list goes on

[Rikki Kitto]

I've got a new billet crank pulley to fit too

[Tractor Dave]

Are you doing the work yourself? When you torque up the bolt on the top pulley, support the pulley and use thread lock and the correct torque setting. This is where my engine builder (no longer used) cocked up and the key sheared causing timing to slip and a whole load of grief

[Rikki Kitto]

Sounds like a nightmare bud, when I removed the cam pully I was surprised how easy it was to get it off what's the torque setting any idea

[Tractor Dave]

The Haynes manual for 7a engine states 65nm. I can't remember now if I went with that or someone with an S2 Bentley manual chipped in? I used a new bolt and pulley from Audi Tradition. Had to do the same job on the RS2 replica I repaired as well but that had sheared both top and bottom pulleys
I made a tool to support the top pulley.

[Rikki Kitto]

Are you doing the work yourself? When you torque up the bolt on the top pulley, support the pulley and use thread lock and the correct torque setting. This is where my engine builder (no longer used) cocked up and the key sheared causing timing to slip and a whole load of grief

Get my spanner man to do it but will mention this to him

[K Simmonds]

The Haynes manual for 7a engine states 65nm. I can't remember now if I went with that or someone with an S2 Bentley manual chipped in? I used a new bolt and pulley from Audi Tradition. Had to do the same job on the RS2 replica I repaired as well but that had sheared both top and bottom pulleys
I made a tool to support the top pulley.

You can get a tool for supporting pully's, their not expensive and fit just about any pully, I have a homemade version somewhere.

65NM is correct for the cam pully, that's quite tight but not crazy.

No Bently manual for the S2, the closest you'll get is the one that covers B3 platform cars which is still incredibly useful.

[Rikki Kitto]

Any chance of a loan of crank Locking tool from one of you lovely peeps once I get around to getting it done

[K Simmonds]

You can borrow mine, it does both 3B's and ABY's.

The poxy post van didn't turn up yesterday so I couldn't send your ambient temp display. Nothing open around here on a Saturday but if you top the postage up a bit to cover the extra weight I can get them sent together on Monday.

[Rikki Kitto]

No rush bud gotta collect all the parts first

[K Simmonds]

Well it's here waiting mate, you doing it yourself?

Your going to want a 3/4 drive breaker bar and you may as well get a basic set of impact sockets to go with it, never be defeated by a hub nut again.

[Rikki Kitto]

Cheers bud ? my spanner man will be sorting it out with help of here