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One's a 7A and ones an S2, hence the differences, though I think Peter's suggestion is still along the correct line of thinking. Check any ground points you can find and the wires going to them as well any other connections under there that lead to the clocks.
I bet it's something really simple, just a case of finding it.
How do you mean ?? Lead to the clocks ? ... i have already all the ground cables under the dash harness,, a lot of grounds. So its probably somekind of ground or cable issue of some sort ? The cables that goes from the fat oil sender those cables is that i should correct ? As i have searched a lot .. that is the sensor that makes the lamp flash .. hmm if take it out i can test it manually ... plug the hole int the block .. and put air pressure on the sensor , i have rig for it. Thats how i tested they worked before installing them. Hmm
One's a 7A and ones an S2, hence the differences, though I think Peter's suggestion is still along the correct line of thinking. Check any ground points you can find and the wires going to them as well any other connections under there that lead to the clocks.
I bet it's something really simple, just a case of finding it.
I didn't think the temp sender went to the auto check....?
Anyway, there's a load connections under the dashboard which I found to be corroded a little, had bugged me for years but always solved itself once the car dried out in summer.
I finally solved it when I found those corroded connectors and gave them a good scrape and contact cleaner.
Ok ,, but did you have the same issue as me and they were corroded and it fixed the oil light ?
You know what, I think your right there Peter... If the wire for the temp gauge isn't connected the gauge reads flat out but I'm not 100% sure it's linked to the Autocheck.
I didn't think the temp sender went to the auto check....?
Anyway, there's a load connections under the dashboard which I found to be corroded a little, had bugged me for years but always solved itself once the car dried out in summer.
I finally solved it when I found those corroded connectors and gave them a good scrape and contact cleaner.
Also check the larger oil switch/sender is the correct type. There's one with 0.3 bar switch and one with a 1.8 bar switch, yours should be the 0.3 bar type.
even if it shows oil temp can it be broken still ?
That I'm not sure about, if it's reading the temp correctly I'd assume it's okay....
Check you have the three wires on the side of the block going to the correct locations, if you have the connectors to the two switches the wrong way around it'll set the oil lamp off.
I guess it could also be a fault with the Autocheck unit but I've never seen that happen, it's always something to do with the wiring or switches in my experience.
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