Car running hot after not using it this year

[220bhp]

Hi I have not used my 3b s2 coupe for a few months . I uncovered it and took it out for a drive but, it didn’t feel right , wouldn’t role like the brakes where sticking and , after a few miles it started to over heat , which I thought might be on a hot day due to resistance from sticking brakes . It have had it in the garage to do the brakes and fit new handbrake cables as they look shot .new rear pads and calliper check ,plus new tyres .
on the drive home it ran great for a few miles then started to do the same , running badley , engine labouring and getting hot .
i get that brakes and rolling resistance ,which it is what it feels like ,but what other issues could cause these issues .
I don’t do many miles in the car and have replaced water pump and thermostat in resent years . No oil in the water , no mayanase
on the filler cap , water in the oil . Any advise would be very mush appreciated

[Tractor Dave]

You can easily test for a sticking caliper. With brakes all cold, take the car for a short run of a couple of miles. Avoid using the brakes. Pull over and very carefully feel each brake disc. They should all be cool or just a little warm. Any that are very hot are sticking on.
when you run the car up to temperature standing still, the fan should come on when the temp gauge goes slightly over 90. That only takes about five minutes on a warm day.

[220bhp]

I have changed the thermostat which has made a difference but , it still runs a notch or two over what it did .
I let it idel after a a run to see if the fan came on but it didn’t , so could be a problem there. I have deleted the air con but , still have the button on the dash and, the fan runs with it pressed on . The after run fan system also works . The car is a 3b so what would I change or test to get the fan to cut in as it should .
Also when letting it idle the red temperature warning simple came on at 2 notches over 90 . It has never done that before

[John.]

.....so what would I change or test to get the fan to cut in as it should .
Also when letting it idle the red temperature warning simple came on at 2 notches over 90 . It has never done that before

Check connections at fan switch at bottom of radiator, 3-pin switch. One pin should be 12 volts, short this pin to other 2 and you should get fan speeds 1 and 2.....if memory serves me correct?! If fan works then you've checked everything bar the switch, assuming connections are good, replace the switch.

Incidentally I had cause to change the Multi-Function Temperature Switch on my ABY, original was an AUDI part , replaced with a Meyle and now the gauge reads higher....checked with an infra-red thermometer.

What brand MFTS do you have ?

[simons2]

I think I’d do a full flush , it could be that sediment has settled in the radiator and that could cause your fan not to cut in due to the bottom of your radiator not getting hot enough

[John.]

I think I’d do a full flush , it could be that sediment has settled in the radiator and that could cause your fan not to cut in due to the bottom of your radiator not getting hot enough

That's a good shout, if there is enough sediment to cause this I'd be concerned.

220bhp Master cylinders' can get sticky with age?

[JayCab]

For a BEHR OEM MFTS you want Pete at Quattro Corner…