Knock and Inlet Air Temp sensor testing

[Rusty]

Aye Tom, you're right. If I had VAGCOM or access to it then I'd have done it ages ago! Where can I get it from? It would make a lot of things much easier!

IAT is fine, I was just getting duff readings from a multi-meter .

It's wholeheartedly possible that there's very little wrong with the car but after the weekend I just want to make sure as I seemed to have more issues than others with basically standard cars (although they were mapped). Unfortunately for me, I really have been going about it the hard way! It could just be that the standard map, inlet, IC etc. and heatsoak are partners in crime and that I'm expecting too much from what is basically a standard car. Oh well... best get modifing to sort it out.

[twoqu]

As I said earlier, PM me!

[Rusty]

I'm noticing a pattern here... AHA! (subtle hint understood)

PM sent!

[S2central.net]

FOr the record I saw 495 ohms at ~18 celsius and 485 ohms at ~15 celsius. Bout right I reckon. That was an Hitachi sensor and yes it should be measured with plug removed... On a 3B you need to disconnect the ECU connector if you dont wanna unsolder the IAT connections.

[S2central.net]

ANdy - if you want to try the old home brew to get a feel for the difference then let me know. I can despatch a spare ECU for you to try if you like...


Paul

[audiman]

HEat soak is a right pig, if my car isnt hot then it will spin the wheels in 2nd gear with ease, give it a few minutes to get heatsoaked and it wont even try! I reckon it must lose a good 50bhp minimum.

VAG-COM software is free off the net, suitable leads can be bought on ebay etc etc for cheap. I bought a genuine lead, but they are expensive, but then i use mine at work all the time.

[S2central.net]

How on earth can you avoid heatsoak at somewhere like Inters - its impossible !

[audiman]

CO2 intercooler cooler? LOL

Yes it is very heatsoaked by the time you get to the line up. By the time my car is at the end of 3rd gear you can tell its cooled down. Just leaves a few moments to enjoy 4th until braking

Knock sensors are a pig to change, but in all fairness they are a very uncommon failure. Most people change them along with other parts and they "seem" to have cured the car. There just isnt anything in them to break except the cable and that shoudl give you a fault code

[Rusty]

I'll be doing the knock sensors when I fit my shiny new rad so shouldn't have access issues then. I've been reading up on IC sprays too... Stu was right, sprinting is bad for the bank balance!

[Rusty]

ANdy - if you want to try the old home brew to get a feel for the difference then let me know. I can despatch a spare ECU for you to try if you like...


Paul

I'm soooo tempted but won't be in a position to sort a homefries for a little bit, got carried away with a reverse inlet (and possibly water injection) so that I get the most out of a remap! RS2 IC is also on the shopping list along with about 1 million other things... it'a endless as ever

[4WheelDrifter]

I'll be doing the knock sensors when I fit my shiny new rad so shouldn't have access issues then. I've been reading up on IC sprays too... Stu was right, sprinting is bad for the bank balance!

You know you can't sprint again unless you do some more tweeks. Just ask Tom.

[Rusty]

Furans IM, RS2 IC, 3" DP and a homefries should see me lose about 0.1s

[lini]

To not open new topic I'll continue here. If a knock sensor is dead you get an fault code with a VAG-COM. Does motronic switch to limp mode or not? Cause I have a problem on a 2nd sensor and if I rew it more than 6000 i get the code that there is no signal from 2nd sensor and boost get a mecanichal limit only. Is the limp mode in my case result from a dead sensor o do I have another problem.

[lini]

Come on, noone knows?

[vcosmin]

I have a problem, with knock sensor G66, signal intermittent, or something like that, and the care was only on mecanical boost. If i turn it off, and on again it worked for a short period, and again no bosst, changed knock sensor and all if fine again