Breather valve info?

**s2driveruk** · 20 February 2004, 09:25

Hi Steve,

Yep, thats how mine is......

David

**SteveH** · 20 February 2004, 10:00

Thanks David

Damn, I was hoping it would be something simple like it was fitted the wrong way round

**SteveH** · 20 February 2004, 10:02

David,

What happens when you remove the oil filler cap while the engine is at idle? Does the motor try and stall or does it just carry on as if nothing has changed? Also, do you notice any vacuum pulling on the filler cap?

cheers,
Steve

**s2driveruk** · 20 February 2004, 10:09

Steve,

To be honest never tried it, i'd have thought there should be some vacuum there?

Are you sure the valve is working...seem to remember mine was gunked up but the spring assembly inside seemed a bit primative and flimsy, coul be jammed open or shut?

I am pretty sure i have read somewhere that very low back pressure could force oil seals to weep in a turbo (can't remember where) but definately remember thinking, hmm, maybe i should keep the cats for a while longer.

What diameter is that scopion exhaust on yours, maybe that is aiding the loss of back pressure???

Technically probably not the best person to ask but hope those suggestions help!

David

**SteveH** · 20 February 2004, 10:56

David,

Thanks for the reply

The valve is new.

The Scorpion system was on the car when I had the kkk24 fitted and it caused no issues with oil use through the turbo. I don't think that is the main problem, even though it could be contributing to the fault.

The oil smoke gets worse if the car is left to idle for a prolonged period of time. Also, the burnt oil is forming sooty deposits on the rear bumper, so, I'm pretty sure it's from the hot side. There is no evidence of oil burning within the cylinders, so I'm sure it's not the cold side that's leaking.

This problem started when the RS2 turbo was fitted. It's been back to Turbo Dynamics twice and they say "there's nothing wrong with it, so it must be a problem on the car"

Anyone got any ideas on this, or has experienced the same sort of turbo problems? I'm going to try blocking the breather hose to the intake boot and see if this makes any difference. I'll let it breath to air instead.

If not, it's turbo off (again) and I'll send it off to another company

Cheers,
Steve

**Doug_RS2** · 20 February 2004, 10:56

Pull the breather system off that goes back to the inlet. Block the hose on the inlet pipe and direct that breather hose to a jar taped in somewhere in the bay. Now you can see if you are getting lots of oil through your breathers - by the amount in the jar.

How many miles has it done on the new rings? I was told 1000miles with low rpm(<3000) and engine always under load for those 1000miles before the rings bed properly.

What compression levels are you getting in each?

What thickness of oil are you using a 10w40 or 10w60, 20w60?

It's sounds like the turbo - for whatever reason. I was told that the pressure difference between the oil pressure and back pressure is not much with standard exhaust. When you have low back pressure though, that difference is substantial and that is when you get oil going through the seals.

**Doug_RS2** · 20 February 2004, 10:59

If you are taking it off again - try AET Turbos - I've not heard a bad thing about them and I was happy with the work they did.

You could try a different turbo as quick test - I think Sal has an RS2 turbo for sale just now - try borrowing for a day.

**Doug_RS2** · 20 February 2004, 11:01

Or you could borrow a K26/27/29 for next weekend?

**SteveH** · 20 February 2004, 11:07

Doug,

The engine has just under 400 miles on it since the rebuild. I've maintained revs below 3k for most of the time (a few blips to 4-4.5k) However, that's when the clutch starts to slip

I was advised by Castrol Technical to use the lowest grade of GTX for the first 500 - 1,000 miles. I think it's 10/40 or something like that.

I've tested the compression levels on the engine and I'm getting 12 bar on all cylinders. They all come up to full compression quickly, so I'm happy with that side of things.

I have a second turbo to try. It's a hybrid kkk24, so it should be Ok as a test unit. The main problem is a lack of new gaskets for the swap. I'll have to order some up to try it.

It's just a major PITA after all the work to get the motor back together. I'm sure from your recent experience that you know what I mean

Thanks for the suggestions

Steve

**SteveH** · 20 February 2004, 11:09

Originally posted by Doug_RS2
Or you could borrow a K26/27/29 for next weekend?

Hehe, don't tempt me m8

I've already been thinking of upgrading the turbo to get rid of the problem. I don't have any of the intake plumbing to go with it though and I know that takes a while to sort out. Good idea though

**s2driveruk** · 20 February 2004, 11:14

Steve - slightly off topic whats that hybrid K24? Is it giving slightly more top end puff or even less lag at the bottom end?

Cheers,

David

**SteveH** · 20 February 2004, 11:19

David,

It's a re-worked coldside. Pickup should be the same as standard with a bit more grunt and top end.

**Doug_RS2** · 20 February 2004, 12:02

Originally posted by SteveH
I don't have any of the intake plumbing to go with it though and I know that takes a while to sort out. Good idea though

I have all the intake. It would all drop in place apart from the coolant feed but we can bend yours slightly.

I have a custom oil feed line that will bolt to the block.

The returns bolt straight on.

So, not much hassle - maybe hassle getting chips sorted out though - and would that all be worth the it in the end?

You have to decide if another Â£300 rebuild is worth it when a brand new turbo from mihnea is under Â£1000 - tempted yet?

Breather valve info?

Breather valve info?

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment