S2 engine probs - injector relay?

[Ski]

Hi fellas, had to get towed home today by the AA :wacked:

was traveling on motorway and the car performed well under 3rpm, but once it got to the point where the tubo kicks in it had no power what so ever, and pulled like a 1.2 nova. so i decided to pull over and give engine 30 seconds cool, after which it never started again.

The AA man plugged a bulb into the injector cables and had no response while i turned the ignition.

About 1 month back i had my injector module replaced as a thread/wire became faulty and 1 cyl went down.

Anyone suspect's anything here? any clues would be appreciated

thanx in advanced fellas..

[Ski]

bump.

[Doug_RS2]

You need to get the fault codes out of the car first. Either by an LED or by using vag-com.

[Ski]

roger!

[A6 AVANT]

Defo pull codes, If I remember correctly when I rebuilt Beeties 3B after head gasket I had no spark and no fuel and this was due to plug on the distributor not being fully on! Now this can't be your prob because you have seperate coils on the leads? Is this correct on an ABY? (Not seen one in flesh) Would a hall sensor failure cause no fuel as well on an ABY? If I am talking out my **** say so, I apologise
Just a suggestion,hope this may help.
Regards,
Chris

[Markus]

Could it be the hall sensor (G40)?

Taken from s2central:

If G40 fails, the engine cannot be restarted (as the ECU needs a reference firing point). However, if G40 fails while the engine is running, it will continue to run by deriving the firing points from signals received from G4 and G28. In addition, the ECU will retard the ignition by 6 degrees as a safety measure.

There could also be something wrong with G4 (Crankshaft Reference Position Sensor) or G28 (Crankshaft Speed Sensor). Check the motronic-section at s2central for more info. But I'd too suggest you to pull the fault codes.

[Ski]

many thanx pple...

[Ski]

well the dealer says £150 for test as it has to be plugged into pc for 1.5 hour (which i think is bolox) ?

any body in the manchester area with a vagcom test available to them? would be greateful.

ive just had a look and the car starts on cold engine then when it warms up the turbo stops working, then it wont restart

[Doug_RS2]

it could well be that cam position sensor.

If it does stop working while you are driving, it might stop all turbo(wgfv) activity as well?

Can you rig up an led to blink the codes out? Look on s2central.net to get instructions for that.

Also - some people pour hot water down the back of the cam pulley to clean the sensor and it works better.

For £150 you could buy a fully registered vagcom and lead.

[Graham]

For £150 you could buy a Vag com, do you need a laptop for this?. I have been looking at all sorts of machines and like the Sykes pickavant machine but it is £2k:eek2:
Rather expensive tool i think
Graham

[Ski]

thanx for all your input fellas, will see what i can do.

[Doug_RS2]

Originally posted by Graham
For £150 you could buy a Vag com, do you need a laptop for this?.

You do need a laptop or a long lead to a pc in the garage - if you do this though, you won't need the registered version of vag-com as the only difference is the registered one you can log data.

[audiman]

£150

It takes 30 seconds to pull fault codes using VAG's 1551. Robbing lying sods. I wish, as an independent, we could get anyway with that sort of crap! LOL

I would test that hall sender out, sounds like a possible cause. Having saidthat, it could be many a thing.

[Ski]

how do i test the hall sender ?

does anyone have one spare or a cam pulley sensor so i can do a test? will return offcourse

[Doug_RS2]

To test the hall sender youshould pull the fault codes - it should log a fault if that has gone intermittant.

To replace it, costs about £80 and you need to remove the cam pulley to do this - a pita.

Get the fault codes out of the car first