Boost problems again
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No, ive not checked the maf, I have nothing to check it with or exchange it unless I buy a new one
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martyn I have the tool if you want me to drop it off
You need a split so the wires have a place to come out. Also don't take any chances, put some wd-40/penetrating oil on it now just in case
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That would be the best option if you can hold out till then, i'd offer to come up to have a look just have not got time atm. I will see if I get a chance to come give you a hand.
Best option tho is MRC tbh or a mini meet of people from the forum at yours.Leave a comment:
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Why the split one? Can you not just use a normal 22mm spanner?
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I am quite tempted to get down to MRC and let them fit the lambda and give it a once over, especially as they are not too far from me.
Wont be able to afford it for 3 weeks or so though
Edit again lol, got no ACLeave a comment:
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Sounds like classic lambda problems, leave the knock sensors for now and get the lambda changed, it's a simple job.
Really must stress that getting a proper boost leak test done is the only way to ensure that the pipes are holding pressure, visual inspection can miss some problems. If the boost gauge is rock solid then that's a good sign though.
Do you have AC? There's an AC vacuum pipe near the ECU that I've knocked out on occasion, only small but it could be a problem.
I would suggest that you speak to MRC, get a lambda and a health check done for c£100 and get Doug to give a good once over.Leave a comment:
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Lambda is easy, just remove the airbox, and you then need a SPLIT 22mm Socket. The rest should plug and play if you buy a genuine one.
HTH
Cheers,
Steve.Leave a comment:
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Thanks, Im think the same now regarding a boost leak, it definitly shows a healthy 12psi on the odd occasion that it does work!
Over the last 24 hours it has started to really struggle to idle and is constantly going to stall.
Also, it is drinking alot of fuel even when being driven carefully, and smells really rich when first started from cold. Would that suggest the lambda?
I guess at this stage I may aswell try some knock sensors and a new lambda, I just wish I was confident to fit them myself rather than have to pay out stupid labour rates for someone else to do it!Leave a comment:
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Hi Dest, sorry to hear that you're having problems. These cars seem to thrive on causing pain, anger and frustration...
Sounds like knock sensors if it's showing full boost but holding back.
Lambda is another option, especially if it's not been replaced. Mine cam up with an a mixture correction error when I had the codes pulled. New lambda probe on mine made a noticeable difference, it used to hesitate and now doesn't. You can get them for as little as £40.
Get it VAg Com'd and do a boost leak test with a proper air hose. If it's not leaking then there's not a boost issue, it's electronic.
I have a pair of knock sensors that were working fine when I replaced them to investigate a little problem of my own. You're more than welcome to try them.
Hang in there, my car took 18 months to get right before the boost leaks got solved and I've not finished getting it up to scratch 3.5 years later. It still does silly things every now and again but when it works properly all the anger and frusstration seem to ebb away.
MRC offer a health check, worked wonders on my car 2 years ago, could be a worthwile £45+vat (or whatever it is now).Leave a comment:
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From memory about £60,one nut and a plug ,plus a pair of small handsLeave a comment:
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I had similar problems with my 3b from the day I bought the car, changed just about everything, rebuilt the engine [first time] still the same problem, until as jamo says I changed the front knock sensor. This solved my problem, not to say it will solve yours but its worth a try
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