Boost problems again

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  • dest
    replied
    No, ive not checked the maf, I have nothing to check it with or exchange it unless I buy a new one

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  • dkw_dude
    replied
    Originally posted by 4WheelDrifter
    Have you checked the MAF?
    Thats my suggestion too. Test with a healthy MAF. On a 3B you can unplug it, and if there's no change the MAF is faulty, not sure if this applies to the ABY.
    Hang in there, hope you get it running right!

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  • Cullam3n
    replied
    martyn I have the tool if you want me to drop it off You need a split so the wires have a place to come out. Also don't take any chances, put some wd-40/penetrating oil on it now just in case

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  • 4WheelDrifter
    replied
    Have you checked the MAF?

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  • quattronutter
    replied
    vagcom here,northampton if you want to check for codes

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  • Acidburn
    replied
    That would be the best option if you can hold out till then, i'd offer to come up to have a look just have not got time atm. I will see if I get a chance to come give you a hand.

    Best option tho is MRC tbh or a mini meet of people from the forum at yours.

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  • dest
    replied
    Why the split one? Can you not just use a normal 22mm spanner?

    Edit:
    I am quite tempted to get down to MRC and let them fit the lambda and give it a once over, especially as they are not too far from me.
    Wont be able to afford it for 3 weeks or so though

    Edit again lol, got no AC

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  • Rusty
    replied
    Sounds like classic lambda problems, leave the knock sensors for now and get the lambda changed, it's a simple job.

    Really must stress that getting a proper boost leak test done is the only way to ensure that the pipes are holding pressure, visual inspection can miss some problems. If the boost gauge is rock solid then that's a good sign though.

    Do you have AC? There's an AC vacuum pipe near the ECU that I've knocked out on occasion, only small but it could be a problem.

    I would suggest that you speak to MRC, get a lambda and a health check done for c£100 and get Doug to give a good once over.

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  • Fat Audi 80
    replied
    Lambda is easy, just remove the airbox, and you then need a SPLIT 22mm Socket. The rest should plug and play if you buy a genuine one.

    HTH

    Cheers,

    Steve.

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  • dest
    replied
    Thanks, Im think the same now regarding a boost leak, it definitly shows a healthy 12psi on the odd occasion that it does work!
    Over the last 24 hours it has started to really struggle to idle and is constantly going to stall.
    Also, it is drinking alot of fuel even when being driven carefully, and smells really rich when first started from cold. Would that suggest the lambda?

    I guess at this stage I may aswell try some knock sensors and a new lambda, I just wish I was confident to fit them myself rather than have to pay out stupid labour rates for someone else to do it!

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  • Rusty
    replied
    Hi Dest, sorry to hear that you're having problems. These cars seem to thrive on causing pain, anger and frustration...

    Sounds like knock sensors if it's showing full boost but holding back.

    Lambda is another option, especially if it's not been replaced. Mine cam up with an a mixture correction error when I had the codes pulled. New lambda probe on mine made a noticeable difference, it used to hesitate and now doesn't. You can get them for as little as £40.

    Get it VAg Com'd and do a boost leak test with a proper air hose. If it's not leaking then there's not a boost issue, it's electronic.

    I have a pair of knock sensors that were working fine when I replaced them to investigate a little problem of my own. You're more than welcome to try them.

    Hang in there, my car took 18 months to get right before the boost leaks got solved and I've not finished getting it up to scratch 3.5 years later. It still does silly things every now and again but when it works properly all the anger and frusstration seem to ebb away.

    MRC offer a health check, worked wonders on my car 2 years ago, could be a worthwile £45+vat (or whatever it is now).

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  • dest
    replied
    Would that have any bearing on it struggling to idle too?

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  • 220bhp
    replied
    From memory about £60,one nut and a plug ,plus a pair of small hands

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  • dest
    replied
    Is it easy to change/expensive?

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  • 220bhp
    replied
    I had similar problems with my 3b from the day I bought the car, changed just about everything, rebuilt the engine [first time] still the same problem, until as jamo says I changed the front knock sensor. This solved my problem, not to say it will solve yours but its worth a try

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