UrS6 stutter

[quattroTurbo]

I am having issues with a 96' UrS6 auto.

It has been remapped recently and has also had a 3 inch exhaust system fitted together with a K+N flat filter and Forge DV.

After the exhaust system was fitted it developed a slight stutter or dead spot at 4000rpm. Dash gauge showing 1.7-1.8bar.

When the remap was done performance was much stronger (2.2bar on dash gauge), but the dead spot at 4000rpm is worse and lasts for about 1 second. What can be done to fix this please?

Also, I am not entirely sure whether the auto version is supposed to have the 15 second overboost function, however, this one does AND I would like to remove it. Is this possible? I know it is there for protection, but I would like it gone.

Thanks in advance.

[S2Ian]

have youi checked the little leads on the end of hte coil packs? if they crack it will develop a stutter like that.

[merlin's S4]

You did the remap? 1.7-1.8bar is too much on a standard turbo. I would guess that this probably has something to do with your problem!!

[Animal Mother]

[QUOTE=quattroTurbo;289460]
After the exhaust system was fitted it developed a slight stutter or dead spot at 4000rpm. Dash gauge showing 1.7-1.8bar.[QUOTE]

1.7 - 1.8 bar on dash gauge is limp home mode. Lots of reasons for this, usualy a vac pipe off somewhere!

[QUOTE=quattroTurbo;289460]When the remap was done performance was much stronger (2.2bar on dash gauge), but the dead spot at 4000rpm is worse and lasts for about 1 second. What can be done to fix this please?
[QUOTE]

You should be seeing 2.2 (minimum) - 2.5 bar (overboost) all of the time. Boost gauge is boost in Bar PLUS atmospheric pressure. If you view you boost gauge with ignition on and engine of it should read 1 Bar.

To me it sounds like your map isn't for your engine or for your gearbox. AAN is different from ABY it initial setup. AAN with Auto is different again.

I think we need to know where and what map you have.

[merlin's S4]

I must have read that first post completely wrong!

I'll try again...

Where is the map from? As Animal mother says 2.2 isn't a lot for a chipped car and 1.7/1.8 is too low for a standard car, although the digital guage can be inaccurate but not usually by that much. I would suggest checking for fault codes and doing a pressure check, you may have a boost leak!

[jd2]

my stage 1 chips are also only 1.7 and no overboosting! definatly my chips that are crap as stock chips were overboosting to 2.0. where are they from?

[Animal Mother]

my stage 1 chips are also only 1.7 and no overboosting! definatly my chips that are crap as stock chips were overboosting to 2.0. where are they from?

Ooomph. That sounds worse!

[Bram]

Have you pulled any vag-com fault codes?

[Knight Rider S4]

I am having issues with a 96' UrS6 auto.

It has been remapped recently and has also had a 3 inch exhaust system fitted together with a K+N flat filter and Forge DV.

After the exhaust system was fitted it developed a slight stutter or dead spot at 4000rpm. Dash gauge showing 1.7-1.8bar.

When the remap was done performance was much stronger (2.2bar on dash gauge), but the dead spot at 4000rpm is worse and lasts for about 1 second. What can be done to fix this please?

Also, I am not entirely sure whether the auto version is supposed to have the 15 second overboost function, however, this one does AND I would like to remove it. Is this possible? I know it is there for protection, but I would like it gone.

Thanks in advance.

This is a typical thing to happen when you get your car remapped/chipped bigger exhaust so on

You will probably find it is a coil as said before that worked to a certain level under previous ecu set up now been asked for that bit more is failing or boost hoses colapsing under load always best to check these things out first

Would not put on K&N filter as these are oil sponges and will foul up the maf over time

[S2central.net]

Couple of things... Yes the UrS4 has that digital boost guage which displays absolute manifiold pressure (boost plus ambient).

4000rpm is typically where you'll see max torque on a K24... That means most sensitive to knock and under the most duress for coilpacks.

Things to check - fuel pressure (pump & filter), that the spark plugs are tight and there are no leaks. Check earth points also. Worth trying a different POS unit alos. Oh and maybe the fuel has been changed.

If the new exhaust has been the only thing to trigger this behaviour, then its conceivably cos more air is being flowed thru the engine and at WOT you don't have the right fuel or timing to fight knock... The MAF should automatically compensate for this of course - worth checking it.

Paul

[quattroTurbo]

Thanks for the replies.

Am aware that the indicated boost is +atmospheric, so lets call it 1.2bar max. Fault codes were pulled prior to all this work and all was good. AFM is about to be replaced, will also check the coil packs and possibly replace WGFV.

I don't think it is a boost leak because it holds the boost steady for up to 15 seconds, except for the dead spot.

Remap is Wetterauer.

Any ideas on how to get rid of the 15 second overboost?

[quattroTurbo]

A further note; it is using fresh BP Ultimate.

[S2central.net]

Are those chips definitely for the Automatic AAN ?

I can program out the 15s overboost mode if you wish, but in all honesty I have never done that for the auto version. Still - shouldn't be an issue. Drop me a PM if you like.

Paul

[quattroTurbo]

Thanks, the remap is definitely for the auto version.

[Animal Mother]

I don't think it is a boost leak because it holds the boost steady for up to 15 seconds, except for the dead spot.

My car was boosting to 1.5bar, pulling strong with no dead spots. It was awesome, plus, it had a boost leak!
I replaced the SMIC and it was even better!
No fault codes but poor running on boost is very likely to be a boost leak!