Oil Leak (another one...)

[APNess]

Ah, thank fook for that. Well the thinking was that if that pipe needs replacing it's gonna be a biatch to get out, what with the bodgy rounded bolts in it.

1) I'm hoping the pipe won't need changing
2) Also hoping the spacer cures what ails me (Tom pm me your paypal/nochex addy and we'll sort something out. If you want I can post the old gasket to you as well, if it's quicker than getting one from the stealers? Oh yeah, and I owe you a few beers too.)

Found a place that's local - a bolt n nut supplier, and they sell lengths of rod to cut into screws, or nuts n bolts that come in all shapes n sizes, so they'll be seeing a bit more of me, as I go round the car and replace the 'what the fook is THAT doing there' bolts n nuts with proper ones...

Ah you gotta laff... but fook knows why :mad:

Glad you lot have been giving me help/moral support all the way. Hey, beers for everyone when I see you next!

PJ

[martinjs]

If the pipes on that housing are a t**t to remove, just take the housing off, there should be a huge bolt holding it to the block, easier said than done i know but should make it easier to get the shafted bolts out.

martin

[Doug_RS2]

Are you sure your oil line is not fractured - since it has been fitted without a spacer it has either been bent or tightened into place - was it touching the top of the compressor housing?

I have that oil filter housing off the car - if you are desperate you can have it to get your car sorted - as long as we sort out something for mine by the end of the month.

If it is the threaded holes to hold the turbo oil line in that are fooked - I am going to thread the oil hole to put an adapter in there so I won't need the M6 threaded holes - I wll need to check if it is possible first.

[APNess]

Yeah it was touching the top of the compressor housing. I can feel it's scraped on the bottom of it, but will have a good look to see if it's broken. I don't think so. When the oil starts to flow it seems to be seeping from the engine side part of the flange, not a break in the pipe itself. Will have a better look today and advise.

Do we have a part number for the housing? If so I'll get onto Vagparts today.

Cheers guys

PJ

[SteveH]

PJ,

Check the oil feed and return pipe flanges are flat. The ones that attach to the bearing housing on the turbo. If they've been over tightened at some stage, they can become distorted and they'll never seal, even with new gaskets. BTW, if you're buying the flange gaskets, get more than you need. They're only pennies and they do come in handy if the first try fails to seal the leak.
I had my oil feed pipe on and off plenty of times trying to cure an oil leak. In the end I found it was the flange that was distorted

[APNess]

Yeah that makes sense Steve, Cheers. Ordered half a dozen gaskets, they'll be here tommorrow.

I'll report on my findings with the pipe. Could be it's knackered. One other worrying thing - gasket sealant had been used and *might* (though I hope to god not) have gone in the turbo bearing case. I think the leak would be rather more severe than a drip in that case though by now...

Here's hoping.

PJ

[SteveH]

Jeez...you'd better hope the sealant hasn't made it's way into the bearing housing! A rebuild of the turbo would be on the cards

[APNess]

Attached - picture of the oil feed pipe, and the yellow arrow shows where it's been scraping.

Just a heads up for anyone wanting a bigger turbo. Make sure you get the spacer (does this apply to the RS2 too?). You CANNOT do without it, despite what some people say/think (unless you want oil leaks...) - watch someone prove me wrong now ('I run 10,000 hp and I never needed a spacer' etc )

Also note the red screw from my bodywork which has been used instead of the correct bolt/stud, and knackered the thread inside

Anyway, hoping if I get the spacer from Tom at some point soon my car woes will be over. Always assuming I don't find any other disasters on the car ....

Fingers crossed...

PJ

[Dr H]

Jeez man this whole thing has been a right ****** bodge :mad: I really hope you get it sorted soon. Did the guy doing this conversion really think he was gonna get away with this standard of work.

Makes me wonder if he actually knows what he is doing at all

I'd be heading for citizens advice or maybe something more drastic..........

Still, sounds like you're almost there

[Mark Halligan]

Also note the red screw from my bodywork which has been used instead of the correct bolt/stud, and knackered the thread inside

Unbelievable :mad: .

[Doug_RS2]

:eek2: shocking

[audiman]

Oh my God, well I can honestly say the person resonsible for doing work like that should never be allowed to work on a car again. Just imagine how brake conversions are done

This is why a law should be enforced allowing only qualified ppl to work on cars, its too dangerous.

Paul, I will get a gasket and spacer this week with luck. I might get a few of them made up as there may be some demand for them.

That pipe does distort very easily. I machined my flat as it had distorted too.

This spacer IS required for K26/27, does not need to be fitted on RS2 turbos.

HTH

[Doug_RS2]

Tom - these spacers would be good for welding on a steel JIC fange so you can make custom oil lines. Or you could tap the hole so you can put in a JIC adapter.

I might take 2 off you for spares - how mucho?

[Stick Insect]

Originally posted by audiman
This is why a law should be enforced allowing only qualified ppl to work on cars, its too dangerous.

They need to e qualified to install gass cookers and boilers.

Thing is Tom, we don't want qualified mechanics to have all the fun

Sales of Swarfega would plummet....

David