Main radiator replacement ABY + A/C

[jameswkr]

Friday holiday (!) to do the above. Ive been into the engine bay to replace the two small hoses either side of the thermostat housing ( yes it does require the pump to be disconnected ! ). Any BTDTs from the group? It looks like the cooling fan assembly needs to come off first and the rad separated from the A/C rad. Any tips welcome! Cheers James.

[audiman]

Never done an ABY, have done my 3b with AC!! What a bitch of a job. It would be easier on an ABY as ABS and battery aren't in the way as much. Remove cooling fan and drain the coolant. Remove cooling fan shroud. Undo all hoses and bottom mounting nut. Undo and move coolant res. out of way and disconnect the EVAP canister and remove it. Now undo the two bolts that hold the AC rad to the main one. May have to undo lower AC pipe mountings. Lift the AC rad off the main rad and place a piece of thick cardboard in between the two (helps to stop any damage). Undo the plastic gaurds on the bottom and side of rad. These are a real bitch to get at. There is a mounting down on the pass. side of the main rad. slacken the nut nearly all the way but dont take it off, hole is slotted! This should be about all you need to do. It is even easier if you de-gas the AC and remove that rad first, but extra expense.

[jameswkr]

Thanks Audiman. Pls can you explain "EVAP cannister". I am also doing the thermostat at the same time, therefore the PAS pump will be removed. I assume all fixings accessable without need to ramp car? Physio on hand PM to sort my back ! Cheers James.

[audiman]

Its right next to the expansion tank. Its black and just pulls out. Will be easier to get at the side fixings with pump out of the way. May need to jack it up to get at the lower bolts tho.

[S2central.net]

The EVAP canister is in a stupid *** of a place on the 3B - beside the coolant bottle.

On the superior ABY ;-), the EVAP canister hides behind the inner wheel arch on the front right corner.

The EVAP canister contains 'activated charcoal filters' which soak up gaseous emissions from the fuel tank. During normal running, the EVAP solenoid permits the treated fumes to enter the intake manifold.

Paul

[jameswkr]

Ah, thats why I was confused. Any other comments on the radiator job or the thermostat? Ive just blagged some hose that hopefully will fit the rearmost of the pipery under the PAS.

[Martynf]

James,

If you get to do this job on friday, post some tips up here Friday night mate!!! PLEASE!!!!

I'm biting the bullet this weekend and replacing EVERY single water hose after my blowout last week. The thermostat, the AC belt, the PS belt, the Alt belt are also being replaced. I also just ordered the 'Mark' intercooler mod reducer pipe to fit that as well.

Whilst I've got the bumper off and the two radiators out (my AC is not gassed at the moment, so I'll split the ac rad away and out), I'll replace the two water sensors in the water manifold. Might as well do everything once and do it right....

I just had 'proper look' at the jobs in hand, they look a cow!! have you REALLY got to remove the PS steering pipes to the pump and swing the PS pump out of the way to change the stat? when refitting them, is the power steering system self bleeding??

Also... I noticied one of the rad mounting rubbers is split on mine, totally broken in half, these things are prone to splitting in half!! so a new set of those expensive little cows are going on, watch for yours!!

Also, once all the new hoses are on, is there a 'special' method to bleed air from the water system from that air valve in the hose that goes to the heater matrix anyone???

Tom???? Paul???

All and any advice GREATLY accepted :-))

Martyn

[audiman]

Sorry about that, no wonder you cant see it!!

[PeterS]

Martyn:

I replaced the double radiator system in my CQ with a custom, double core all-aluminum one as a precursor the S2 engine installation.

Do you _really_ need to remove the pump? You may only have to remove one of the hoses to the rack....

remove the three bolts holding the radiator fan in the shroud, push the fan forward into the back of the radiator, remove the front mount and loosen the mount on the fender (this probably requires the removal of the overflow tank and the hydraulic reservoir), as well as removing the mounting bolt underneath...If air con IS fitted, remove two top bolts holding the condenser to the radiator - the bottom of the condensor slides into clips on the radiator-pull up gentely on the condensor to clear these clips. You should NOT have to discharge the AC...pull the radiator/fan shroud/fan out of the car as a unit......

BTW if you ARE replacing all the hoses there is an often neglected hose (on the 3b) which connects the head cooolant manfold to the hard line that runs behind the timing belt to the turbo. Its a total pain to get at with out removing the pump, but its failure could directly impact the life of the turbo and the head...

HTH

[Martynf]

Peter,

thank you for posting that info :-) very helpful indeed! I think I'll just unbolt the pump totally leaving the hoses on and see if that doesn't give enough room to do the work.

I'll see how it goes with removing the two rads together 'as one' I only just replaced an AC hose a few weeks ago and haven't re-gassed the system yet! so I can split the rads if need be and disconnect the hoses.

GOOD ADVICE!! about the neglected hose :-) thank you! Point taken!! That shall be done!

The custom rad you had made sounds great!! very tempted to follow suit! maybe when the rads need replacing, I'll check into that and have one made over here.

Many thanks for your input Peter, much appreciated!

Martyn

[Doug_RS2]

Originally posted by Peter Schulz
BTW if you ARE replacing all the hoses there is an often neglected hose (on the 3b) which connects the head cooolant manfold to the hard line that runs behind the timing belt to the turbo. Its a total pain to get at with out removing the pump, but its failure could directly impact the life of the turbo and the head...

HTH

I've had this burst on a 1995 ABY - the hose had practically disintegrated - The pump can be moved out of the way but it is a real PITA to do - the 2 metal pipes are that close that it is really tricky to get the rubber hose on - or at least it was for me.

I think it should be one of those things that gets replaced as soon as you buy the car.

[PeterS]

re: the custom radiator...I sourced it through Javad Shadzi (http://http://www.80tq.com/images/En...mpartFront.jpg)...
Good piece for about $420 USD...BUT comes sans mounting hardware (just sides and end tanks without mounting flanges)which I had to fab..( read machine shop access)

Chris Miller used the same radiator and brazed some aluminum L channel to the radiator and used them as mounting flanges...I took a heavier duty approach because of the added weight of the condensor ( he is not running a condensor)

HTH

[Martynf]

That water hose is not listed?? any idea what size so I can buy a generic piece of hose?

Thank you!
Martyn

[Martynf]

Doug, thanks for the tip off on that hose, I just found it, and see what you mean!

That water hose is not a 'pre-made part' you have to buy a one metre length of hose 'off the reel' from Audi and then use only 73mm of it :-(

For anyone that ever neds to do this hose, you need to ask for one metre of part number N 020 2621. It's listed as being 73mm long 10mmx3.5mm, so I guess that's 10mm internal bore size and walls 3.5 mm thick?? Or use some hose from a general auto store which will no doubt be cheaper, but is it as good??

Martyn

[PeterS]

Martyn:

I would use any automotive grade coolant hose that fits...take the old one to a automotive parts store and get a generic replacement.

Save your money and spend it on the oem part when there IS no comparable generic part available.

The hose itself is accessable under the hydraulic pump - the section of the coolant line that runs behind the timing belt is in fact rigid tubing and not a rubber hose.

HTH