Very briefly here... I'll post up a proper 'how to' with photos and such later...
- Get the car well jacked up and safely supported with axle stands
- Undertray off
- Bumper off (unless you are confident about separating oil cooler from the air guide... there is a lot of corrosion down here)
- Drain oil (even though a thermostat stops oil flow to the cooler - you are gonna lose some oil so may as well plan to do this job at an oil change)
- Using 27mm spanner on the union and 24mm spanner at the joints, remove the pipes where they connect to the cooler. I found both of these to be very tight - lots of corrosion at the union joint makes for some grief. NOTE - The cooler pipe nearest centre of car is easy to bend and mishape whilst trying to remove it - be careful and follow the next steps to get the cooler out with pipes attached for easier removal on the bench.
- The two cooler pipes run up to the housing near the oil filter. Remove the oil filter for increased clearance.
- The pipe on oil cooler nearest centre of car connects to the REARmost pipe on the filter housing. A 27mm spanner removes the rear hose, and creates just enough access to get the front one off. NOTE any and all clips for cables & grommets in this area.
- Remove the two domed nuts (13mm) that hold oil cooler to its mounting bracket
- To prevent a fight with the plastic air guide, simply remove it from the body with its single 13mm bolt. This will allow the oil cooler to come away complete with two hoses and the air guide attached.
- On the bench the hoses can be carefully removed, checked and cleaned
- Separate the old air guide if you plan to re-use it. I actually used a new one as mine was well dunged up and figured I would damage it separating it from cooler. The two self-tapping screws which secure it to the cooler are well encrusted... Could have easily removed them with a dremel TBH and cleaned up the guide for re-use.
- Build up the new cooler with new screws and metal air duct. Do not attach the plastic air guide yet
- Reckoning on a lot of crusty parts down there I also prepared a new bracket complete with new rubbers and washers. These rubbers are very tight to fit from new... Requires some stiff little fingers
- To remove the old bracket you first need to create some access to the mounting bolts - lots of corrosion here so lots of WD40 and luck required...
- To get access to the bracket body mounts I had to remove the hose from turbo to where it attaches to the intercooler and where it connects to the TBV (courtesy of two part Samco design - an unexpected blessing)
- There is another cable clamp on the bracket with a crusty 10mm bolt needs removed before you can get to the 2 x 13mm nuts for the bracket.
Refitting is the reversal of removal... Reckon on a couple of hourse for this from start to finish as there are some fiddly / rusty clips to contend with and a bit of cleanup along the way.
Biggest risk on this job is kinking an oil hose too much - they are phooking expensive so be careful. I bent one of mine, and just about got it bent back to some satisfaction - not perfect, but OK.
Will follow up with parts list and some photos...
- Get the car well jacked up and safely supported with axle stands
- Undertray off
- Bumper off (unless you are confident about separating oil cooler from the air guide... there is a lot of corrosion down here)
- Drain oil (even though a thermostat stops oil flow to the cooler - you are gonna lose some oil so may as well plan to do this job at an oil change)
- Using 27mm spanner on the union and 24mm spanner at the joints, remove the pipes where they connect to the cooler. I found both of these to be very tight - lots of corrosion at the union joint makes for some grief. NOTE - The cooler pipe nearest centre of car is easy to bend and mishape whilst trying to remove it - be careful and follow the next steps to get the cooler out with pipes attached for easier removal on the bench.
- The two cooler pipes run up to the housing near the oil filter. Remove the oil filter for increased clearance.
- The pipe on oil cooler nearest centre of car connects to the REARmost pipe on the filter housing. A 27mm spanner removes the rear hose, and creates just enough access to get the front one off. NOTE any and all clips for cables & grommets in this area.
- Remove the two domed nuts (13mm) that hold oil cooler to its mounting bracket
- To prevent a fight with the plastic air guide, simply remove it from the body with its single 13mm bolt. This will allow the oil cooler to come away complete with two hoses and the air guide attached.
- On the bench the hoses can be carefully removed, checked and cleaned
- Separate the old air guide if you plan to re-use it. I actually used a new one as mine was well dunged up and figured I would damage it separating it from cooler. The two self-tapping screws which secure it to the cooler are well encrusted... Could have easily removed them with a dremel TBH and cleaned up the guide for re-use.
- Build up the new cooler with new screws and metal air duct. Do not attach the plastic air guide yet
- Reckoning on a lot of crusty parts down there I also prepared a new bracket complete with new rubbers and washers. These rubbers are very tight to fit from new... Requires some stiff little fingers

- To remove the old bracket you first need to create some access to the mounting bolts - lots of corrosion here so lots of WD40 and luck required...
- To get access to the bracket body mounts I had to remove the hose from turbo to where it attaches to the intercooler and where it connects to the TBV (courtesy of two part Samco design - an unexpected blessing)
- There is another cable clamp on the bracket with a crusty 10mm bolt needs removed before you can get to the 2 x 13mm nuts for the bracket.
Refitting is the reversal of removal... Reckon on a couple of hourse for this from start to finish as there are some fiddly / rusty clips to contend with and a bit of cleanup along the way.
Biggest risk on this job is kinking an oil hose too much - they are phooking expensive so be careful. I bent one of mine, and just about got it bent back to some satisfaction - not perfect, but OK.
Will follow up with parts list and some photos...


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