3526 crank locking tool TDC?

[Jamo]

Does the official crank locking tool lock the engine with piston 1 at TDC?

[Rusty]

I don't know but it would seem pretty pointless if it locked it anywhere else IMO. Perhaps it locks it at 29.572 degrees before bottom middle centre. You never know with Audi Djones' crank locking tool was the daddy!

[terrybullwon]

Do you have this tool Jamo?

[mcandmar]

No, the 3526 locks at BDC. The 2084 for a 3B pulley locks at TDC.

And as i discovered the the 3526 tool fits a 3B pulley much better than the 2084 tool

[Jamo]

Do you have this tool Jamo?

Yeh had it for a couple of years now.

[terrybullwon]

Can i call shot gun?

[mcandmar]

TDC. Verify the flywheel mark can be seen through the window, and the crank pulley lines up with the timing belt cover with the piston at TDC. Then line up the mark for the cam pulley with the valve cover. For 7A/3B motors you also have to line up the marks inside the dizzy.

The crank locking tool isn't normally used for setting the static timing, only for holding the pulley when you torque the big nut. I doubt it would even be accurate enough to hold the engine at a specific point. Is this all to do with setting up your adjustable cam pulley?

Mark.

[Jamo]

Everybody keeps saying the window but the engine is not in the car, the bentley manual says uses the oil pump, cambelt cover for a engine not in car,although s2central believes this to be inaccurate.

[mcandmar]

Thats a point the windows on the gearbox. There is a tab on the oil pump but its not exactly at TDC, and i would agree with Paul that the small metal timing belt cover isn't the most accurate either. The thing is these marks are used for assembling a standard engine, they dont have to be that accurate as the only range of adjustment you have is one tooth on the timing belt. Its either right or a tooth out.

If you are trying to setup your cam timing with an adjustable cam pulley you really need a degree wheel mounted on the crank, and to do that you need to find true TDC using a dial gauge on the piston top IMO.

I have my bottom end partly assembled, if you need any photos taken for reference just shout.

Mark.

[Jamo]

I'm not trying to setup the cam timing, the wheel doesn't work like that. You set the car up as standard and then the magnetic disk moves and on the disc there is scale that tells you how much you are advancing or retarding the ignition.

I merely want to verify TDC on piston 1 before I put the cambelt on. I have set it by hand to TDC.

[aelred]

You have to find true TDC, specially on an engine that is hi performance and if you want to advance and retard the cams, TDC i find pretty good on the 5 cylinder engine markings, but I feel more confortable find it for myself, just as per Marks above post. The piston does not move for a few degrees looking as it is TDC. Dial gauge and a degree wheel is the best way to find it.

[s2martyn]

agree with aelred..true tdc is only found with a dial gauge and there is also a 10 degree overlap where the piston stays at the top for a while..you also need a timing disc on the crank pulley...this method is only necassery when fitted performance cams and then you need the data sheet for the cams to get the neccasery information to dial the cams in with the vernier pulley....you usauly use number 1 inlet valve at full lift and set the crank at the specified increment

[DJones]

The only quick and dirty way with the engine out (though in one piece) is the oil pump housing and groove in the front pulley.

[Jamo]

Cheers going to have to use that or thinking if the flywheel mark lines up with the sensor I can use that when it's on.

[s2martyn]

you put the dial gauge down the plug hole....you can also check this by inserting a long screwdriver down and turning the crank...have just looked at my engine...it is fitted in the car but with no belt on.
1..the line is on the gearbox..
2..no 1 piston at tdc.
3.keyway on crankshaft faces about 1 oclock to line up with the oilpump lug
hope this hepls