2111 Fault Code Help Please

[S2Addict]

All,

Desperately need your help to get my car rolling for ADI!

I had issues with it on Wed when it refused to start. The following day having got a tow back with the goons from AA she started up fine.

Took a blink code reading and it registered a the following code: 2111.

I proceeded to change the RPM sensor (G28), have checked the ECU, checked all wiring to and fro the ECU and still nothing.

Anyone have any clue as to what else it maybe?

Car turns but will not fire up despite doing so on Sat morning prior to me changing the G28.

Please help as I am dying to make my first ADI on Sat where I hope to pick up Paul's loaner as well!

Many thanks in advance to all for any suggestions/fixes

Jigs

I forgot to add that I have since reset the ECU and it is still showing blink code 2111.
All suggestions most welcome folk

[ericd]

All,

Desperately need your help to get my car rolling for ADI!

I had issues with it on Wed when it refused to start. The following day having got a tow back with the goons from AA she started up fine.

Took a blink code reading and it registered a the following code: 2111.

I proceeded to change the RPM sensor (G28), have checked the ECU, checked all wiring to and fro the ECU and still nothing.

Anyone have any clue as to what else it maybe?

Car turns but will not fire up despite doing so on Sat morning prior to me changing the G28.

Please help as I am dying to make my first ADI on Sat where I hope to pick up Paul's loaner as well!

Many thanjks in advance to all for any suggestions/fixes

Jigs

I'm sure 211 on an Aby is engine speed sensor, which you should always get cause th engine isn't running during interrogation, your previous posts indicating a no-start look very like the failure of a hall sender, hall sender should log failure though even with blink codes , be better if you could get a hold of vagcom though from somebody, also small chance that you've not correctly repositioned G28 when you swapped it , worth checking cable/connections, also remote chance that there's a problem with sensor and it's engagemnt to the flywheel, (details in here somewher if you search around)

[S2central.net]

Engine not running always shows that 2111 fault for the RPM sensor (G28).

A common reason for no-start condition is a failed camshaft position sensor - CMP - the hall effect job (G40).

Which did you replace - G28 down at the bellhousing or G40 behind the camshaft sprocket.

Is the timing OK ?

Checked all the fuses and that fuel pump is getting 12V feed ?

[S2Addict]

Engine not running always shows that 2111 fault for the RPM sensor (G28).

A common reason for no-start condition is a failed camshaft position sensor - CMP - the hall effect job (G40).

Which did you replace - G28 down at the bellhousing or G40 behind the camshaft sprocket.

Is the timing OK ?

Checked all the fuses and that fuel pump is getting 12V feed ?

Hi Paul,

Def the G28 that I changed, timing is spot on and all fuses checked whilst fuel pump is fine

If its the camshaft position sensor would that not give me a different blink code?

As mentioned, I'm desperate to get it ADI so I can try out your handy work on the way home

[martinjs]

Pour some water down the back of the cambelt, if it starts its the cam sensor.

[S2Addict]

Pour some water down the back of the cambelt, if it starts its the cam sensor.

Done that when she initially decided to play silly ******s!!

Didn't work

Typical of her, 18mths of pure bliss, trouble free motoring and just when she's ready to get beefed up she decides to get all moody on me

[S2central.net]

Cos you can't trust fault codes 100% - many faults don't always generate a code... That and the engine needs to run for some faults to be detectable.

The CMP would give a fault code if the engine was running then you unplugged it (or it failed)... The engine will keep running - cos it knows where everything is - but it will not restart with a failed CMP - it needs to know where #1 is on the compression stroke.

Sometimes a dribble of water down the CMP will tease it into life... Strange but true. You need to carefully remove camshaft pulley to change the CMP - I say carefully meaning you must use a proper counterhold when loosening the pulley bolt so as you don't stress the woodruff key.

Look at the schematics for G40 - you'll see it gets a 5V signal from the ECU across two pins and it should generate a 5V pulse (visible with TTL/Diode tester) on the other pin wrt 0V.

As also mentioned by Eric - a bad ground can give a no start condition - check the ground straps on inlet manifold and rear of cylinder head.

PS - ECU is winging back to me now... You'll get it on Wednesday AM.

[ericd]

for a sanity check undo the multiplug connection to G40 (right at the top front of the engine), I used this to double check that the ecu could see and generate an error condition, should definitely fire if you undo the plug, also worth checking its condition and the 3 fragile wire inside the connector, give it a clean when you're there. can you get somebody with vag-com to talk to it , there's also the danger that due to continual attempts to start the car due to g40 failure or similar , that subtle voltage drop from the battery will be detected by immobilser setup and disable firing of the engine, (I think I detailed this generic vag-com error and the specific immo error in a thread a while back), worth a check as it's a bit of a gotcha that's not always in the logical parse tree mentality

thread here -> http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...light=start%22

p.s.

I think you should still be able to bump start it with a faulty g40 (not too sure on why though )

[S2Addict]

for a sanity check undo the multiplug connection to G40 (right at the top front of the engine), I used this to double check that the ecu could see and generate an error condition, should definitely fire if you undo the plug, also worth checking its condition and the 3 fragile wire inside the connector, give it a clean when you're there. can you get somebody with vag-com to talk to it , there's also the danger that due to continual attempts to start the car due to g40 failure or similar , that subtle voltage drop from the battery will be detected by immobilser setup and disable firing of the engine, (I think I detailed this generic vag-com error and the specific immo error in a thread a while back), worth a check as it's a bit of a gotcha that's not always in the logical parse tree mentality

thread here -> http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...light=start%22

p.s.

I think you should still be able to bump start it with a faulty g40 (not too sure on why though )

Done and still nowt

Fault code is still showing as 2111 - everytime I try something different I'm udoing the battery to reset the ECU and it's still showing the same fault code - I'm running out of ideas and I'm bracing myself for not making ADI again

[Jamo]

I'm confused, it's been said above code 2111 with ALWAYS show if you vag-com an S2 car without the engine running.

It sounds like the hall sensor which doesn't always show a code if faulty, BTDT with my old Coupe.

It's the G40 behind the cam wheel if it's an ABY / ADU

[S2central.net]

Does the car have factory IMMO or something aftermarket ?

An immo might be the culprit here if its not G40 - but you might also be confusing an immo further with battery disconnection - there might be a proper reset sequence for that depending on the alarm/immo fitted.

You can reset the ECU just by pulling the two 'MOTOR' fuses in the main fusebox... Have you honestly checked all the other fuses ?

Have you done the ECU output tests yet - look at www.sjmautotechnik.com for the trick on how to do that with the blink code jumper wire - VAGCOM not required - I can't remember the detailed sequence and never documented it on S2central - SJM has it ! What that will do is verify that your ECU is in contact with various actuators around the engine - its an ECU sanity check really, but won't help you fix G40.

Have you tried the LED test on G40 that I mentioned ?

At the minute you don't know if you have a faulty IMMO, bad G40 or a fuelling problem - could be fuel pump relay.

I'm not suggesting random things here -they will help get to root cause of proble - use your blink code LED to see if G40 produces pulses when you crank the engine.

If G40 is alive then the engine should be sparking (a separate fuse protects the coils).

If it is sparking, and not starting then you have a fuel supply problem - probably fuel pump relay.

Immo is going to be harder.

[Fat Audi 80]

I repeat, 2111 is NOT a non starting fault! You will always see this when pulling the codes on a non running engine.

Try all the things Paul mentioned above and come back to us.

My money is on the Cam position Sensor.

Best of luck

Cheers,

Steve.

[ericd]

Does the car have factory IMMO or something aftermarket ?

An immo might be the culprit here if its not G40 - but you might also be confusing an immo further with battery disconnection - there might be a proper reset sequence for that depending on the alarm/immo fitted.

You can reset the ECU just by pulling the two 'MOTOR' fuses in the main fusebox... Have you honestly checked all the other fuses ?

Have you done the ECU output tests yet - look at www.sjmautotechnik.com for the trick on how to do that with the blink code jumper wire - VAGCOM not required - I can't remember the detailed sequence and never documented it on S2central - SJM has it ! What that will do is verify that your ECU is in contact with various actuators around the engine - its an ECU sanity check really, but won't help you fix G40.

Have you tried the LED test on G40 that I mentioned ?

At the minute you don't know if you have a faulty IMMO, bad G40 or a fuelling problem - could be fuel pump relay.

I'm not suggesting random things here -they will help get to root cause of proble - use your blink code LED to see if G40 produces pulses when you crank the engine.

If G40 is alive then the engine should be sparking (a separate fuse protects the coils).

If it is sparking, and not starting then you have a fuel supply problem - probably fuel pump relay.

Immo is going to be harder.

Have you charged the battery since you started this thread ?, can't believe it ain't gonna be partially discharged by now after these restart attempts , (still showing 12 v ish) on the aux gauge when you switch on ignition ?

[S2Addict]

Battery gets a helping hand from my booster as yes it has been drained when trying to start.

Can't wait to get home tonight to fight with it again to see if I can some how fluke a fix in time for Sat...

Thanks to all for your input, keep it coming as I need all the help I can get to try and solve this Rubiks Cube of a fault!

Jigs

[ericd]

You had any luck with this tonight ?