Nothelle turbo ID help!!!
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As Robin says the hybrid is simply a smaller turbine #26 (to spool up quicker), and a larger compressor, max boost went to 1.4. EM modifications varied but did include the addition of SS, I'd be interested to see the software version of the remap, they also did a couple of rs2 upgrades (345 with ecu mod only, or 370 with a few more tweeks) -
said that in post 4 have you spoken to Eric, saw his car saturday it's far to clean and mint, needs a bit of mud.
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Chase down ericd on here - he has all the details on a recent refurb of his N300 spec turbo - was done by one of the reputable turbo shops... He sent it to me ages ago, but I've cleverly filed it away.Leave a comment:
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That makes sense then. Its the smaller K26 turbine housing. Unfortunately the only way to tell what the compressor is to measure as best you can the major/minor dimensions of the wheel itself. You would have to remove the comp housing for that though! There is a large O ring which usually falls apart between the sealplate and the housing!
If you can get a head on shot of the comp housing, that would be useful. I am pretty sure the largest available at the time would have been the Porsche 944T 250bhp. That depends whether they went outside the Audi parts bin!Leave a comment:
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Thanks for the info, the turbine exit is 50mm and here's a better photo for you.Attached FilesLeave a comment:
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Can't really see from that angle but the turbo looks likes its based on a K26 compressor housing. So its possible that they used either Ur/200 or Porsche 944t spec. Again its possible that they sourced another comp wheel and machined the housing to suit. Strangely I think the early ur/200 had a larger comp wheel than the later ones. If you can get a measurement of the turbine exit where the downpipe attaches that would help identify what was used. I reckon its either 50 or 56mm.
I have also seen a Nothelle manifold where that mod was done to both sides removing both doglegs.Leave a comment:
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Yeah to be fair it's lasted for about 80K and like you say the standard manifolds are known to crack. It just seem like an odd way of going about things especialy when the conversion cost so much in the first place.
Anyway it's given an excuss to upgrade to a genuine RS2 EM, which should be on it's way from Germany at the moment.Last edited by Jamo; 14 October 2008, 17:48.Leave a comment:
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Yep I quite agree it looks like something a farmer would do to his Landrover, the bit welded in is stainless steel by the looks of it and I would expect this to expand and contract at a different rate to the original casting hence the mutitude of cracks.Leave a comment:
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The manifold is a standard one with cyl1 connect like a log manifold and then the hole closed at the top.
How cr*p!Leave a comment:
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Just in case anyone was interesed here's a couple of photos of the both the turbo and manifold, note the odd manifold construction. The manifold is completly knackered there has to be at least 10 cracks all over it which don't seem to show up to well in the photos. Good news is the turbo looks to be in great condition with very little play on the bearing.Leave a comment:
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I know have a full set of numbers from the unit having removed it, I will sort out some pics when I get them of a mates camera. The unit is very similar in appearance to a standard RS2 turbo.
Cold side --- G 5326 101 50721821 226
Hotside --- 5326 101 73 88
Centre --- R035885B
If anyone could shed any light on it's spec I'd be grateful, I have need to get a new exhaust manifold to replace my multi cracked Nothelle one and would like to get a manifold that will make the most of the turbo. That is if its up to the job compared to say genuine RS2 turbo, I'm aiming for about 380 bhp but would be happy with anything over 350 so was thinking of the RS2 manifold.Last edited by K Simmonds; 8 October 2008, 20:54.Leave a comment:
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I have yet to contact anyone about recondition the turbo, I was going to wait until I got it off before making any decisions as it may not need doing yet, however it's done 85K so it may be prudent to just say sod it and get it sorted now whist everything off.
The main reason it's all having to come apart is unfortunately my Nothelle manifold is shagged, cracked in at least three places
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. Cheers anyway Jamo.
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