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do you know somebody,where i can find any scheme with a all vacuum hoses on 7A ?because i dont know all vacuum hoses,and previous owner was/is/will be fckin idiot
look on the hoses,looks horrible and damaged,and i trying to find a problem with the engine "idle"
Reconnect those two arrowed parts in the first pic as Mr Flat_on_his_back said. It looks like your crank case breather pipe is missing - that should be connected to the red arrowed hose: Its the red bit in this pic:
In addition toe cleaning the throttle body and ICV, i'd replace all the small bore vacuum hoses, they are probably pretty old and probably cracked and split.
Doing all the above stuff should help you sort the idle problem
The red line is the connection from the 'sump breather' back to the inlet manifiold and the large rubber inlet hose...corrugated thingy.
It's part of the emissions control system...hot oil gases are drawn back into the engine throught the inlet manfold on a closed throttle, or both inlet manifold and throttle body whilst driving.
Does it idle ok at hot or cold? Maybe lambda probe or coolant sensor, but get the hoses sorted first.
Carlos.
On the look out for less bits for my s2 saloon project. Now supporting myself by shooting for my food. www.airgunforum.co.uk
The red line is the connection from the 'sump breather' back to the inlet manifiold and the large rubber inlet hose...corrugated thingy.
It's part of the emissions control system...hot oil gases are drawn back into the engine throught the inlet manfold on a closed throttle, or both inlet manifold and throttle body whilst driving.
Does it idle ok at hot or cold? Maybe lambda probe or coolant sensor, but get the hoses sorted first.
idle is ok only on cold engine,when is hot they do what i write upstairs
If the problem only happens when the engine is hot i would really suspect the coolant sensor...located at the back of the block...not the one hanging off the cam cover (nice in red i may say).
Carlos.
On the look out for less bits for my s2 saloon project. Now supporting myself by shooting for my food. www.airgunforum.co.uk
You may well have a vacuum leak somewhere still. Mine does this a little and I know for certain that I have more leaks than I have points on my license.
Best way to find an air leak is to follow the manual for base idle speed adjustment, unplug the ISV, Purge Valve, and plug the crank case breather. Idle speed should be 800-850rpms. If not disconnect each vacuum line at a time and plug the holes until you find the leak.
I found the best setting was a slightly lower idle speed of 750-800rpms and then let the ECU/ISV raise it back up the normal speed. If the base idle is set too low the engine will stall under sudden load, most commonly when you clutch in and wind on full steering lock. If the base idle is too high the engine will always run around 1000rpms and the ECU will struggle to keep a constant idle speed.
Just make sure you find any leaks before you adjust the base idle speed screw, otherwise you will end up going around in circles making things worse.
I'd also recommend you check the idle switch on the throttle body, you should be able to hear it click when the throttle is closed. I had to replace a throttle body as the top linkage was so worn it wasn't holding the throttle plate closed. You can test the idle switch by connecting a multimeter to the plug on top of the throttle body, then from inside the car open and close the throttle and make sure the switch closes every time. One of those audible continuity testers makes life much easier.
Mark
P.S. If you run a 5-1 manifold without a heat shield the life expectancy of the switch is about six months
91CQ20v - Gone to a new home
93UR-S4 - The Magic Carpet
94S2Bus - The Emerald Express
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