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  • #16
    Originally posted by Audi_CQ
    It broke because I made my self a main bearing girdle with custom main bearing studs that was 1-2mm too long. One of the studs will hit the valve if the stud is too long

    I had trouble with the org gauge/sender unit before starting up. The needle where all over the place when I tried to start, and because of this I fitted a temporary mechanical one just to be safe.

    What was obvious to You It was impossible to see that this valve was broken and my mechanical gauge showed 5bar oil pressure. How could it be obvious that there was something wrong?

    Do you mean item #25 in the attached image. Note the listing for that part as 'modified vehicles' - this is actually from MY94 RS2. Worth investigation.
    Attached Files
    Paul Nugent
    Webmaster http://S2central.net
    Administrator http://S2forum.com

    1994 S2 Coupe ABY - aka Project Lazarus
    2001 A6 allroad 2.5TDi - family tank
    2003 S4 Avant 4.2 V8 - daily burble

    Purveyor of HomeFries and Exclusive agent for Samco hose kits (S2/RS2)

    There are only 10 kinds of people that understand binary - those that do, and those that don't

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    • #17
      Originally posted by S2central.net
      Do you mean item #25 in the attached image. Note the listing for that part as 'modified vehicles' - this is actually from MY94 RS2. Worth investigation.
      That's the one. 12 points
      Don't know what the modified part is. Same part number for most 5cyl engines. Haven't seen this "modified" before. Maybe just listed for the RS2. Anybody out there know the difference between normal and modified?

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      • #18
        Good info, will be looking out for that in the future. Thanks, oh and what a nightmare how you found out at least you found the problem tho.
        sigpic
        Tom C - www.rcmr.co.uk
        Audi UR Quattro
        Audi 100 C3 2.0 5 cyl 115ps
        Audi S2 - 07k engine project aiming for 800ps
        Audi B5 RS4 645ps 911nm

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        • #19
          I thought I reconized that part.

          Isn't there a little ball that floats in the oil gallery where the oil sensors are? that can also get stuck????? I have heard of this happening?


          Thanks
          Josh
          I chose not to choose life: I chose something else. And the reasons? There are no reasons. Who need reasons when you've got quattro?

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Josh-stateside
            I thought I reconized that part.

            Isn't there a little ball that floats in the oil gallery where the oil sensors are? that can also get stuck????? I have heard of this happening?


            Thanks
            Josh
            Josh : The ball you think of / has heard about is this valve. It's a "ball valve"

            Audiman : Learning the hard way Was totaly crushed when I found out. Could't sleep until early morning that night, but luckily a good friend helpt me get going the next day and we started tearing down the engine to get a status of the damage and finding the error. Not as bad as expected, but a lot of time and money down the drain because of studs 1-2mm to long

            Cheers
            Roger

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            • #21
              What symptoms can one expect if this "ball valve" is stuck or otherwise inoperative?
              Ben
              Calgary, Alberta
              Canada
              1991 CQ e//S2 w/ RS2 spec 3B 20vt
              Panther Black Metallic
              www.moda-architecture.ca

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              • #22
                Originally posted by archiboy24
                What symptoms can one expect if this "ball valve" is stuck or otherwise inoperative?
                If it's stuck in open position you might get a bit of tick at startup because the oil in the lifters can drain a bit. Otherwise nothing serious.

                If stuck in closed position you don't get any oil pressure to the head! Not good at all I discovered

                Cheers,
                Roger

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                • #23
                  But no oil pressure in the head will show up on the oil pressure guage and will it flash a warning on the dash as well?

                  Roger - how long were your studs that were too long? I just want to be sure the ARP Studs I have are not going to be close to touching the valve - I know others have used the studs but I just want to check.

                  Only £6 ish so worth changing when the head is off.
                  S2,RS2,S4 WB,RS4,S4 B8,RS6 C5,RS6 C6,R8

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Doug_RS2
                    But no oil pressure in the head will show up on the oil pressure guage and will it flash a warning on the dash as well?

                    Roger - how long were your studs that were too long? I just want to be sure the ARP Studs I have are not going to be close to touching the valve - I know others have used the studs but I just want to check.

                    Only £6 ish so worth changing when the head is off.
                    You are right about the oil pressure, but I had trouble with my org. gauge(the needle was all over the place when we tried to start) so I used an aditional mechanical gauge to be sure. It got pressure from the turbo oil feed and that's on the other side of the valve. Why the warning system in the check panel didn't work, I don't know

                    Regarding studs : It's not the head studs that can touch this valve, it's the main bearing studs/bolts. I've got a custom(home made ) main bearing girdle and because of that I'm using a stud kit. These studs (Ford Focus head stud kit ) was just 1-2mm too long (Actually they were OK on all other positions other then where the valve was directly under)

                    Cheers,
                    Roger

                    Here's a picture of the girdle :

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                    • #25
                      I removed mine today. I been trying to read oil pressure on a starter only start(no spark, or fuel). However I have only been able to register maybe 2 psi on the stock 5 bar oil temp sensor. I'll am going to put it back in and try again if not I am going to order a new one. It's actually tempting to just order a new one because they are only around $13.00 usa(both versions).

                      I just figured I post this and say thanks for the info

                      Cheers
                      Josh

                      If I am getting oil pressure later tonight I probably will post.
                      I chose not to choose life: I chose something else. And the reasons? There are no reasons. Who need reasons when you've got quattro?

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                      • #26
                        I am experiencing the same problem.
                        Is it difficult to get the valve out when crushed?

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                        • #27
                          good Info. I got two of these, one used and one new. I know now where it should sit:-)
                          Anders - S2 Avant Clubsport - 8pots or die!

                          sigpic

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                          • #28
                            Just putting one of these together for a customer and noticed (thanks to Hamish for the advice to check!) that strangely the stud clears the valve ok on this one.....

                            However, not knowing that the valve was there until I went to brush out the oilways, it was left in during dipping the block, and while it appears ok I'd rather replace it than risk it, so......

                            anybody know the audi part number for the valve?

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                            • #29
                              answering my own question as it might help somebody (or me in the future when I've forgotten!)

                              part number for the restrictor/non-return valve is 077 103 175 B

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                              • #30
                                The information you wanted was in post #16.

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