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It has the advantage to be easier to fit, never heard of an k26/27 hitting the body, and its good for approx. the same power and as you don't need new oil lines or restrictors it's about the same price. The german forum say it is more reliable. The big german Tuners Hohenester and MTM make it spool a little bit before 4000 so you are only 300 rpm late on an 3071r, but you'll get a bit more torque.
If I find the thread back on rs246.de i'll send you the link
hth
philippe
I think this is why i can´t decide, i like stock-looking, and easy-to fit without modifying anything and not touching the frame, but then this old design thing, is it just the ball bearing?
You can easily make some space for the GT3071R. Boost of the GT3071R can be as high as 600 Nm, so about the same as a K27/26 and it boosts all the way at 3200-3300 rpm, which is 600-700 rpm realier than a K27/K26 #8
Just go for the GT3071R, as you can not compare both turbos being in the same league. IMHO
These small fitment changes (hotside and water/oil lines) are worth it!
Good thing about the 26/27 is that it is easier (if the 3071 can be) to repair! BB turbos are often not that easy fixed.
I would go with the 3071 if I had the money, but I've experienced the 26/27 and you WILL be satisfied with it, I promise you, great performance and great driveability! Just if you have some extra cash, go with the 3071, otherwise the 26/27 will do fine.
And if you have clearance issues you can always manufacture a flange that gives the turbo a bit of a angle upwards. About an inch or so.
2004 9-5 aero
2009 Subaru Legacy Diesel
1994 Toyota Supra Eurospec 6-spd LHD
3-4 Audis in parts
@ prosty,
i know this is a bit off topic,but i always thought that the best way to get around that hotside reaching the wheel arch was with a flange like that.How can you make it work though if there is an angle there? how will the bolts go in the EM?
@ prosty,
i know this is a bit off topic,but i always thought that the best way to get around that hotside reaching the wheel arch was with a flange like that.How can you make it work though if there is an angle there? how will the bolts go in the EM?
May be just put some washer with the same angle on thickness on the screw to spread nicely the pressure and oval hole on the hot side of turbo and Flange
RS2 chip by mihnea,PKM short IM, forge dump valve, 3" custom stainless exhaust, 18"X8" Porsche 996 rims, conti contact 245/35 Front 225/40 Rear, QR sport top mount, Powerflex bushes, aloy sub frame bushes, neuspeed 19mm RARB,Hard tranny mount, V8 torsen on RS2
You have to use allen bolts to make it work against the EM. and some fine bit of machining / handwork. I would build a spacer with built in V-band, thus making it easier to snap the turbo on and off. Hard to describe. easier to build almost
Like a flange with a welded pipe on, do you understand? just a bit of a pipe. So the flow / turbulence wont be an issue
2004 9-5 aero
2009 Subaru Legacy Diesel
1994 Toyota Supra Eurospec 6-spd LHD
3-4 Audis in parts
well if you have an EM with T3,and you build a flange in a trapezoid configuration,then that would be very difficult for the bolts because they would be in an angle.
However,are you describing some kind of 'downpipe' type of configuration? Wont that be prone to cracking??
Something like that yes, but make a mandrel bent pipe instead to make it better flowwise, otherwise the exhausts will take such a sharp turn up to the turbo.
Not sure if it would work, a friend of mine have made one, but I'm not sure how much he's driven the car with it
2004 9-5 aero
2009 Subaru Legacy Diesel
1994 Toyota Supra Eurospec 6-spd LHD
3-4 Audis in parts
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