stroker question

[Sonic]

Tried beating mine... still didnt work.

Even shaved a couple of mm off the edge of the plastic throttle bit that rotates.

Had no choice but to either lower the engine or cut the metal... a few hours before setting off to the ring. The engine doesnt look like it will go any lower than it already is by adjusting the mounts though.

My cut-n-shut method is tried and testing, ring approved

Edit: While the bonnet way shut and the throttle may rotate all the way you need to bear in mind that when you go WOT the engine tilts upwards, which is what was causing mine to stick even with the plastic removed.

[GazzaG60]

i cut more than a few mm. the entire corner of it as the cable enters the plastic guide. this was the main point of catch. the rest was on return. removing the plastics i hoped would solve it but it didn't so Mr panel hammer sorted the rest. probly about 10mm flatter on the point of catch to fully clear.

never saw one with a cut bonnet in norway either. only dinged panels.

the point about engine lift is valid but the throttle body is lower than the top of the inlet so that catches first.

it cant do the T-bonnet thing of the old fiesta turbo though so its not too bad.

[Jamo]

Bonnet has been cut, no way hammering would have done the job. It's quite neat will primer and spray it maybe although I have a spare bonnet to go on.

[GazzaG60]

maybe thats the extra 16mm there then. on the standard block its ok.

if i go stroker, if i can find a block ill make sure i lower the engine first. some big ratchet straps into position off the ramp.

[Sonic]

Bonnet has been cut, no way hammering would have done the job. It's quite neat will primer and spray it maybe although I have a spare bonnet to go on.

Welcome to the club

[Jamo]

maybe thats the extra 16mm there then. on the standard block its ok.

if i go stroker, if i can find a block ill make sure i lower the engine first. some big ratchet straps into position off the ramp.

My engine is lowered

[GazzaG60]

ok. looks like its car dependent then. mine is not lowered, it sits higher on the new mounts and i had to mod the crossmember by moving the mount cup

did you have to mod the crossmemebr too.

that 16mm makes all the difference for sure.

[Jamo]

you'd be hard pushed to see the 16mm, the only place it's noticable is between the cambelt cover and the metal guard for the crank pulley sprocket

Everywhere else it looks stock height plus mine has been dropped to the same height as the 220mm engine

[|Maku|]

As Ive read from this forum with AAN block, diesel 95.5mm crank and 144mm rods I have to use special pistons. But if I want to use ADU block, pistons and diesel 95,5mm crank, what rods do I have to use? And what cubature would be achieved then? Any risks besides I have to cut block a little bit and cant rev above 7000rpm?

[Jamo]

As Ive read from this forum with AAN block, diesel 95.5mm crank and 144mm rods I have to use special pistons. But if I want to use ADU block, pistons and diesel 95,5mm crank, what rods do I have to use? And what cubature would be achieved then? Any risks besides I have to cut block a little bit and cant rev above 7000rpm?

95.5 crank in the 220mm ADU / ABY block is a short living engine

It's hard wearing on the piston rings ( they wear out very quickly )and you have to use short compression height pistons so it's easy to melt them.

Your rev limit will be 6500rpm you can push it above this but you will shorten the life of the engine.

The 92.8 crank is a far better engine solution if you want to run stock block height.

[Flat on my back]

.

Start with a 7A block (82.5mm bore) and a 92.8 crank, near 2.4lt capacity, more torque and just as revvy.

[|Maku|]

Actually I don't need revs above 7000rpm. Thanks for replies!