Boost problem

[xgordyx]

Got a problem with the car, i think it's a boost problem but not too sure as i've not got a gauge fitted yet. The car seams to pull fine on 1/4 - 1/2 throttle but after that it really holds back and just splutters but not violently if you know what i mean?
Thought the problem was a boost leak so fitted a set of roose hoses but absolutely no difference. Swapped the bov for a new one i had from my old 3b, still no difference. Also fitted a new n75 again no difference

The vagcom is throwing up the following faults:-


Address 01: Engine
Control Module Part Number: 895 907 551 A
Component and/or Version: 2.2l R5 MOTR.RHV HS D02
Software Coding: PMC 1
Work Shop Code:
3 Faults Found:

01257 - Idling Speed Stabilization Valve (N71)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
01247 - Activated Charcoal Filter (EVAP) System Solenoid Valve 1 (N80)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
01262 - Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75)
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground

Don't think the first 2 faults would cause the problem?
The 3rd i expected to get as there is a bodge (not done by me) to the wiring to the n75.
Not too sure if that is the problem?
Any help would be great

[andyg plym]

I KNOW EXACTLY THE PROBLEM

[xgordyx]

Also does any one know the module in vagcom to display boost pressure?

[xgordyx]

I KNOW EXACTLY THE PROBLEM

Any idea of the solution lol

[ericd]

Any idea of the solution lol

run the output test in vagcom under the Engine section, see if you can hear the carbon canister activate and more importantly the n75 should make an audible click when you're testing it. post up what you find

[andyg plym]

read through my old posts mate.

long long story short i owned the car twice, the first time i swapped it for an avant as needed 4 doors. 1 year later i was contacted by the guy i swapped with who wanted to swap back.
Since he swapped it with me he had put a tubular exhaust manifold on it and also an rs2 turbo.
when i took it back off him i had to use the tubular manifold and try getting my spare kkk24 to work. It was not compatible. In the process the guy in question had cut a load of cables and pipes etc. if you check the wiring to the wgfv you will see i hardwired a wire from there straight to the fuse box.
There is no power going to the wgfv or isv (use same power source) in the loom itself.
You will also probably know that when starting from cold its a bit lumpy and not happy, purely because the isv has no power to it.

[andyg plym]

il pm you my number

[ericd]

read through my old posts mate.

long long story short i owned the car twice, the first time i swapped it for an avant as needed 4 doors. 1 year later i was contacted by the guy i swapped with who wanted to swap back.
Since he swapped it with me he had put a tubular exhaust manifold on it and also an rs2 turbo.
when i took it back off him i had to use the tubular manifold and try getting my spare kkk24 to work. It was not compatible. In the process the guy in question had cut a load of cables and pipes etc. if you check the wiring to the wgfv you will see i hardwired a wire from there straight to the fuse box.
There is no power going to the wgfv or isv (use same power source) in the loom itself.
You will also probably know that when starting from cold its a bit lumpy and not happy, purely because the isv has no power to it.

from the output its currently running standard s/w?

[xgordyx]

Just been having a look at the car today, the fuse was missing for the wgfv so pooped a new fuse in to it and took it a run. No difference.
Ran vag com and did an out put test, everything seems to be ok everything clicking away. So cleared the codes and took the car for a run. Came back no faults apart from the usual engine speed sensor.
What should i try now?? Running out of patients with the car

[s2_bo]

If its the same problem that any was talking about then your not getting any power to the WGFV. To quick fix this problem we wired power there directly from the fuse output with a separate cable. So the fuse box was showing a single cable running from under the plastic lid to the wgfv connector block that the previous owner has chopped in..

If this is gone then the WGFV will not have any power so it woant work. (unless in the last few months it was repaired)

Why dont you just connect a new cable to it from the fuse (output), back to the connector block that now sits in between the WGFV and the rest of the loom.

What the car really needs is a new loom.

[europeanme]

I hear that....they can be a PITA but it's that grin factor when it does run sweet as a nut....which mine most certainly is not....

[s2_bo]

Use a multimeter first to check the WGFV. if its showing power then its no longer the same problem..

How much did you pay for the car?

[Knight Rider S4]

Have you bought Andy's old car ?...........

Does the problem alter when hot or cold?

Have you checked for certain it is a boost/ leak issue?..with gauge

..went round all the hose clips , checked bottom of throttle body hose

[xgordyx]

Use a multimeter first to check the WGFV. if its showing power then its no longer the same problem..

How much did you pay for the car?

Did an out put test way vaggom and it clicks away no probem.

Swapped it for my Golf v6 4motion

[xgordyx]

Have you bought Andy's old car ?...........

Does the problem alter when hot or cold?

Have you checked for certain it is a boost/ leak issue?..with gauge

..went round all the hose clips , checked bottom of throttle body hose

Ye it's Andys old car, no difference that i've noticed between hot and cold that i notice.
Fitted a full set of silicone hoses hoping to cure the prob but it didn't