Hairline Crack in Main Radiator...

[raymor]

I've just discovered a hairline crack in the top of the main radiator... it's just seeping coolant, but I'm going to change it asap.

The crack is close to the top hose.
Is this common or is this a precursor to something more major????

There's no great coolant loss, but there does seem to be evidence of coolant seep from both pipes prior to the crack appearing. Extra pressure finding it's way into the cooling system or just panic over nothing ?

Any suggestions appreciated.

thanks
Raymond

[sps-si]

core could be blocked. what is the temp. behaving like?

[Doug_RS2]

Raymond,

I think it is common for the top pipes to start leaking due to people putting their hands on them when leaning into the engine bay.

I have just replaced mine. If you get in touch with MikeS2 on here he has a second hand genuine one.

The replacement ones from Euro are pretty crap quality (Nissen) but at least they are metal capped and not plastic capped - and you have to be sure you get one that has the extra outlet for the aux rad. I got one only becasue I don't have the aux rad and I got discount so a bit less than £100. If you do get one I would re-tap the holes for all the mounting points before you try a bolt in them - the welded on nuts will just break off!

[Sidspud]

I had exactly the same problem with mine last summer. I tried patching it, but it got worse and eventually I was topping up coolant twice a day before I got it replaced.
Everytime I stopped I got clouds of steam billowing from the front of the car.

[raymor]

Ah well... that's a relief. I was a bit concerned that it may have been boost finding it's way into the cooling system bumping the pressure up causing the overspill and crack... what imagination can do !

I'll PM Mike, he just over in Falkirk, so that would be handy.

cheers guys

[S2central.net]

Its a common enough fault. I did get a metal bodied rad from ECP last year for Minnsy's car - it was a brilliant bit of gear - made in Norway or Finland - the price was good too.

When the rad is out its worthwhile, checking the two link pipes under the inlet manifold. You'll need to remove the PAS pump (easy). The link pipes are for the thermostat housing to water rail and the water return from the turbo - either can be a source of a slow leak over time...


Paul

[Graham]

My Old master radiator started out like this, if you hold the top of the radiator and move it back and forth, if there is more than 1/4" of movement check the top radiator mounts, they are only pennies to replace but is they fail they can cost an awfull lot. Mine first cracked next to the bleed nipple, so i got it plastic welded that part stayed fine, then the top pipe sheared off the radiator with all the movement(through not having a working top mount). Cost me a new radiator, and 4 hours of scraping knuckles, and an Irish James Bond smoke screen in front of my car stuck in a traffic jam while Xmas shopping .
Graham

[S2central.net]

Damn good point Graham - forgot about that - theres two or three of these mounting rubbers involved.

[mcandmar]

Mine is cracked too just around the bolt for bleeding the air out. Radiator looks less than a year old so i just dont go near it. So far its been ok, last 6 months or so its only used half a litre of coolant max. Leave it a while and see does it get any worse.

Mark.

I've just discovered a hairline crack in the top of the main radiator... it's just seeping coolant, but I'm going to change it asap.

The crack is close to the top hose.
Is this common or is this a precursor to something more major????

There's no great coolant loss, but there does seem to be evidence of coolant seep from both pipes prior to the crack appearing. Extra pressure finding it's way into the cooling system or just panic over nothing ?

Any suggestions appreciated.

thanks
Raymond

[Doug_RS2]

Don't move the radiator back and forward while it is fixed to the lower mount - I think this is what caused my one to split at the lower mounting point - I was trying to change the connections on the oil pressure sender and had to move the rad slightly.

[APNess]

Do hairlines cracks in the top of radiators look like this (see picture if it don't appear below):

Only reason I ask is that I have a hairline crack in the top of my rad... oh. I think it's obvious

Anyone have a part number from euro car parts or german swedish? My Aux rad is blocked off so I think the metal capped one from ECP will do the trick, won't it? Big job? Pain in the ***?

Can anyone suggest a bodge to keep me going, aside from filling the overflow tank up? It's needing filling once a week, dropping to min from full, so it's not THAT bad, but it'll probably get worse now I said that.

Also, anyone know where I can find the engine number on my car. Adrian Flux want to know EVERYTHING. Rassen frassen etc.

PJ

[S2central.net]

ABYs have a super convenient little sticker on the cam cover with that number... and its on the VIN sticker as well of course.

Adrian FLux indeed - get ye a quote from Greenlight as well Sir !


Paul

[S2central.net]

Forgot to add - job isn't hard - but moderately painful with limited access to some N&B for shrouds etc. I also seem to recall the rad from ECP has some minor variations in fittings that you might need M6 bolts in place of M6 nuts (or vice versa).

[APNess]

ABYs have a super convenient little sticker on the cam cover with that number... and its on the VIN sticker as well of course.

Adrian FLux indeed - get ye a quote from Greenlight as well Sir !


Paul

BWAHAHAHAHAHA! HOHOHOHOHOHO! Hehehehe! Ohhhh. Sorry m8 - I was with Greenlight, and they stuck it up a grand this year, the ***** God knows why I'm laffing though...? Unfortunately A Flux were only ones to come in under a grand, and they want to know anything and everything bout the car, which, I suppose, is their right, but more work for me.

Do you mean the black plastic cover for the timing belt? That has a number on, and some verds off visdom from zer fatherland.

[S2central.net]

Lets hope the German speakers on the forum can type in a thick Yorkshire accent just to get you back for that one