Fuel rail / injector removal

[Paulgo]

Anyone got any top tips or BTDT’s on removing the injectors / fuel rail?

I need to get the fuel rail out of the way to get at the top / back bolts of the IM, without the help of the VAG 1669 tool. You need a heck of a long allen driver to get at these ones and the driver I leant of Jas is just too short. Taking the IM off to get at my borked dizzy.

Read up on a few posts and trying to work out if its easier to just take the rail off and leave the injectors put, as I think they can be in quite tight. Also means I don’t have to get hold of new seals and I’m a little perturbed that they wont go back in very easily either. But I want to clean up the IM and this might be better with the injectors out. Hmmmm …

As far as I’m aware the injectors are essentially just pulled / wiggled out of their seats in the IM, once the rail is unbolted.

I’m on the look out for a replacement rail (mine has peeling on the end which just looks crap) but I wont disconnect the rail itself unless I can source one. Pity the ABY rail is different as it looks sooo much better in black! Fuel pressure will be an issue if I disconnect the rail, but as the engine wont fire and turn over at the mo (until I replace the dizzy) I’m not sure of the best way to reduce the pressure, without spraying myself in petrol!!

Cheers

Paul

[s2driveruk]

simple....get the orginal rail off, remove the injectors, dead easy....and then get it blasted and painted up (i did mine)

While the injectors are out, send them off to an ASNU service point, they will flow test them pre and post cleaning, new pintles, o-rings etc and then you are job done

To get the rail off...from memory and usual caveats apply about DIY instructions:

1) disconnect battery
2) 15 & 17mm spanner for eack banjo bolt on the rail....SLOWLY easy them open, expect some fuel leakage and possibly under a bit of initial pressure so have a rag to hand.
3) wait for the fuel to stop leaking out then wind off the bolts.
4) remove the connectors from each injector
5) wiggle the rail off the injectors...some will stay in the rail, some will stay in the IM.
6) Recover all the o-rings as they sometimes stick in the IM and the rail
7) number and bag the injectors
8) plug the holes once the IM is off

[Rusty]

You can get to the IM bolts quite easily using a stock allen key or even better, a ratchet spanner and small socket set

[Paulgo]

cheers Guys

Fuel rail shouldnt be too bad to get off then

But its not that easy on a 3b to get in to the IM blots, particularly at the ones at the back





fuel rail is right in the way!



and on the other side the battery and ABS module really help too!!






Just about see the rotor arm here




I might just get the socket on but with the fuel rail I wouldnt get a rachet on there and Im going to need a fair bit of leveage to crack those fellas off!

thanks again for the replies guys

[Acidburn]

You can buy a special long allen key socket that works for them, best person to ask is jas11n as he'd know what the part number is, I've been doing this today with small socket sets but mine was the reverse putting a im back on

[Knight Rider S4]

Hey hey Paul still at this lol

Right, easy job mate :

As david has said about removing fuel rail but the there is to bolts that fix it to the manifold before you can seperate from injectors (remember take off retaining clips off the injectors)

The holes in the manifold are for special tool to go through and connect to allen bolts , all you need is a long 1/4" drive extension that slips through hole , have allen drive 5mm I think and 1/4" socket to go in studs , connect extension and strong 1/4" bar /ratchet that can take them off

You will need to take brace off radiator that connects to slam panel so you can lean out of the road a little on some of the bolts


Dissconnect throttle cable , plugs to ISV and unbolt IAT...I just dissconnected boost hose at end of long intake pipe as makes it easier when fitting back as 13mm nut and stud holds pipe in place steadys it when bolting back up

Time up the engine with these marks( pictured) best to do this before fitting new dizzy as the last thing you want to be lining up is the dizzy for bang on timing

Hope this helps

[Paulgo]

thanks Steve, very useful info and excellent pics!

To be honest I’ve not had a chance to have a go at it yet, which is frustrating!! Just hoping it don’t rain this weekend when I can finally get cracking! So I’m taking my time, getting all this info on what I need to do!

Jas has indeed leant me a long allen driver, but its “only” 200mm which is fine for the socket at the front but not the others (think the Audi one is about 248mm) so I will have to improvise! Just being very cautious as I don’t want to round the bolts!

Incidentally, can anyone confirm that an ABY IM (which I think handles slightly larger air volume and so is better!) is sufficiently different to the 3b one that its not a straight swap cos of the dizzy? I seem to remember some tinkering needing to be done for it to fit on a 3b, especially with regards to the dizzy.