How do you time up the cams?? Don't seem to be able to get it right I don't think. I get the 0s lined up and level with the rocker cover lip but wen I tighten up the cam caps the intake cam always seems to move and then the 0s don't line up! On my last go at it 2night got the 0s lined up with the cam caps tight. Throught I did it but turnd the engine over by hand with no sparks in. Timed it back up with cam gear mark and bottom pully mark lifted the rocker cover off and the exhaust cam was right and the intake cam 0 not lined up! It was lower than the exhaust 0 is this right?? Or wrong?? Any help would be a big help cheers tom
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sounds like the cam timing is 1 tooth out fella
if your cam chain marks line up with the belt off then its a cambelt allignment issue, been there MANY times, hence my questions
1993 URS4 Avant Emerald Green 350+bhp
1991 Ford Sierra Sapphire 4x4 in Magenta
BoooOOOSSSSSTTTT BANG BANG CHIRP CHIRP
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From memory you have to fit the intake cam a tooth off from where you think it should be, reason being the change in position once the caps are torqued down. Get that right before you worry about the timing belt.91CQ20v - Gone to a new home
93UR-S4 - The Magic Carpet
94S2Bus - The Emerald ExpressComment
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The cams are a strange one when timing, the marks don't line up as you think they should...
You would think that the marks would face each other at the closest point but when you have the exhaust cam timed for TDC it is actually a little further round so the marks are nearer the sealing face of the head where the rocker cover goes. Sorry, this is really hard to explain! Best thing to do is get the EX cam in the position it should be when the crank is at TDC, then line the Inlet cam up to the mark then.
If you imagine having a straight edge through the centre of both camshafts, the marks are not set on that line, they are set a little below that. I found that if you set them along that line, they are a tooth out when you turn the EX cam to its TDC position, so when you turn the EX cam slightly clockwise to get it to TDC, that mark comes down, while the other one comes up thus the Inlet cam is one tooth out.
Any help?!Comment
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hi just got back in from workin on my car. got cams spot on now i think an hope. but things still gone even worse. i have now got a tapping sound coming from no 5 cylinder area i think and backed up by two other people who were there it sounded like a lifter. but what i have also found that the flywheel mark does not match with the front pully mark spot on?? if i line the fw up the mark on the fp is about 5mm before the mark on the tin plate. now i know this is not right but this is how i have had it back from being rebuild an engine refited!! so any ideas?? the only thing i can think now is the flywheel is out hole?? but i thought the flywheel can only go on in one place, i have gone from dm to sm flyheel?? does this make any differance cheers tomComment
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right more i think about everything the more it wines me up!! can anyone give me a contract for a mechanic who knows s2's inside out an who will come to car or i will trailer car somewhere if have to. loosing the heart to keep tryin myself.Comment
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Dont lose heart, sounds like you are getting there. The timing marks arent exactly the most accurate things in the world. Flywheel mark and cam pulley mark are difficult to see, and you have to look at them at the right angle too. In theory they cannot change relative to each other, flywheel only fits on one way, and crank pulley is keyed to the crank. Only exception is the cam pulley key can sometimes break. Sounds to me like you are ok there.
If you want peace of mind stick a dial gauge down the no1 spark plug hole and find actual TDC with the piston. Infact just stick anything long down there and find the highest point, then double check the cam pulley is correctly timed relative to the cam cover mark. In short the timing can only be right, or an entire tooth out, big difference.
The noisy tapped wouldnt overly concern me if the cams have been removed, they are generally very noisy for the first while until they have bled all the air out of them. I also found you can leave the car to idle for an age and they wont quiten down, but a quick 10min drive will cure it. They seem to need revs/high oil pressure before they sort themselves out.91CQ20v - Gone to a new home
93UR-S4 - The Magic Carpet
94S2Bus - The Emerald ExpressComment
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When the timing belt is put on, the cam sprocket mark has to line up with the mark on the cam cover AND AT THE SAME TIME, the crank pulley mark has to line up with the dimple on the lower timing belt. OTHERWISE, the timing between the cam and pistons is out and, since these engines (3B, AAN, ABY and ADU) are interference engines, the possibility of a piston touching the intake valves is very high. Not saying your noise isn't lifters but it could be pistons kissing (and bending) valves.
Have a look at Photos 4 and 5 in this AAN timing belt R&R DIY:
http://s-cars.org/postnuke/downloads...Belt%20R&R.pdfRS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avantComment
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wished my 0 timing marks where that side of cam gears makes it alot easyer to see!! thats how i have got mine timed at mo. but still hunting baddly on tick over then cut out. spark plugs which were brand new at start up after rebuild black an sooty and what i can see through spark plug holes top of pistons dont look like the shiny je pistons which went in. so tells me to much fuel!!
had friend come an plug vagcom in did bring a list of 6 things up so checked an clean an cleared faults. drove the car around for 15min or so with car coffin an fartin let it idel with revs between 600rpm an 1400ish till cut out pluged vagcom back in no faults at all. thats when i looked into the timing again.Comment
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Your cam timing is out! Does it run strong on boost? But struggles to start and idles like a bag of cr@p? You want to set them like photo 2 not photo 1! BTDT!Comment
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