Volvo K24 turbo in audi application.

[Ruffiano]

i have a spare sitting in my garage, but i have a feeling shipping would be killer.

[prj]

P.S.
Can you find me a K24-7400? I'd like to try it.
I'm serious

[prj]

Yeah i know, my buddy Hank showed up late but threw his URQ on later, his first pull was 420whp, and his forth was 520whp and thinks there is still another 70whp to be had, he just kept increasing the timing and reducing fuel between runs, Sadly when it comes to tuning I'm lost. We both plan on getting some more dyno time in soon, hopefully his fuel pump won't die on him and he can help me tune as well.

You can tune on the road a bit too, you should get fuel and boost sorted on the road.
The only thing you really need the dyno for is for finding MBT correctly and the last touches.

Fueling won't affect power adversely, unless you are heavily over- or underfuelling.
Make sure it's between 11.4 to about 12.5 under boost. Start at around 12 and add boost and advance timing until it starts to knock.
At this point you have three options - add fuel to try to bring temps down and reduce detonation, reduce boost or reduce timing.
Keep in mind, that if you go lower than about 11.4, you will start losing power very rapidly, as flame speed begins declining quick, so it's usually not worth it.

You basically should find the best balance of boost and timing. As I said before, power comes mostly from ignition timing and the amount of air you can stuff into a cylinder.
Fuel is just a tool to combat detonation, but it important to know how A/F ratios affect flame front speed.
If your boost level starts to affect your IAT a lot, then it is no point to increase boost much further - hotter air means it becomes more prone to knock and increasing temps mean diminishing returns, because hotter air takes more space.

I'd suggest picking up a good book.

[Ruffiano]

252 whp is already decent, especially at that elevation.
But you really need to work on the timing. That's where all the power comes from

Yeah i know, my buddy Hank showed up late but threw his URQ on later, his first pull was 420whp, and his forth was 520whp and thinks there is still another 70whp to be had, he just kept increasing the timing and reducing fuel between runs, Sadly when it comes to tuning I'm lost. We both plan on getting some more dyno time in soon, hopefully his fuel pump won't die on him and he can help me tune as well.

this was hank's second run, he put down 470:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jodOHU2cBts

[prj]

252 whp is already decent, especially at that elevation.
But you really need to work on the timing. That's where all the power comes from

[Ruffiano]

Sad to report some low number, but bear in mind that these are somewhat of base numbers, tuning is 3 maps from a base tune, and so far we have only added more boost and changed fuel, no timing has been adjusted and there is more room to work.


252whp 287tq @22psi

This is on a mustang dyno lovingly called the "heartbreaker" we are at 4500 feet above sea level, for reference a B7 RS4 put down 270whp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDW71bm4C8Q

[Ruffiano]

so in the last 2 weeks i finally got motivated and have been doing some remote tuning with Marc @ EFI Express, he is amazing at what he does, I highly recommend working with him, great products, and even better support.

I am scheduled for the dyno this weekend so i'll finally have some numbers to report. I'll post results when i get them.

[david]

vey interesting thread,good work m8.

[quattro]

Did you ever get around to finnishing this?

[porkkis]

I've mapped one 3b motronic car running a volvo K24-7400. Actually the turbo was an original K24-7000 with housings machined and volvo shaft+wheel installed.

Basically I liked it. 1bar at 2200rpm and pulls clearly stronger after 5000rpm compared to the original. Can't match RS2 max powerwise but a nice compromise for someone who would like a just a bit more than original turbo is capable of without actually giving up on anything. My butt dyno said 320-330hp. Could probably give a bit more with some cam tweaks.

[Ruffiano]

It is running, but only running 15 psi (1.9 bar spring), Looking for some local help tuning, I am new to Stand alone engine management so i feel a bit overwhelmed

[quattro]

Any updates on this, been away for a couple of weeks.....

[Ruffiano]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mc3kUXKEezE

Finally got the timing pin problem fixed, now i can get it tuned and tested on a dyno. Already with a base tune and 15 PSI it feels faster and quicker to spool then the old rs2 setup.

[WabTheKing]

my issue was suspected of being a problem with the firmware - when the engine stopped or stalled, the driver to which ever coil was about to fire would be held open and within seconds you would get that nasty smell of melting coil bacolite or whatever it is that stinks so bad!

anyway i had a spare output driver on my ecu so the relays for the fuel pump/coil driver etc are now switched by this spare driver after the rpm signal exceeds 150rpm so if the car is about to stall it cuts power, i was looking at a way to do something with an oil pressure switch to add an extra bit of safety but that probably wont get looked at for a while now knowing what im like! lol

hope this helps
Will

[mc3tq]

Hi,

nice project!

I used the hotside from a K26 that i had lying around...

K26 from 10V Turbo? K2664 13 with just Oilcooling?

Karl