AAN Camshaft position sensor

[HMS-S6]

Hi, does anyone happen to have the above, known good on the bracket that i could borrow for a couple of weeks?

[merlin's S4]

Yes I think so.

[S2central.net]

I have camshaft sensor tester gizmo - plug and play - 20 quid shipped.

[HMS-S6]

Yes I think so.

If i payed shipping would you mind?

[HMS-S6]

I have camshaft sensor tester gizmo - plug and play - 20 quid shipped.

Hi, is this just to test the Camshaft sensor? Mine will start but i think it's either alligned wrong or a poor part, when it comes to its knock reference i think its sending a wrong signal!

[HMS-S6]

[QUOTE=motocrossmad;529927]Hi, is this just to test the Camshaft sensor? Mine will start but i think it's either alligned wrong or a poor part, when it comes to its knock reference i think its sending a wrong signal![/QUOTE

How does it work?

[UrS4boy]

CPS installation /swap info

Hi, does anyone happen to have the above, known good on the bracket that i could borrow for a couple of weeks?

Don't have one but I can offer the link to a detailed CPS swap procedure:

http://picasaweb.google.com/persing/CamPositionSensorReplacement#

[HMS-S6]

Don't have one but I can offer the link to a detailed CPS swap procedure:

http://picasaweb.google.com/persing/...orReplacement#

Thanks, have you ever heard of problems with these before ASIDE from startig issues?

[UrS4boy]

Thanks, have you ever heard of problems with these before ASIDE from startig issues?

I know of at least one AAN-powered UrS6 that would stall *while* driving. After sitting at the side of the road for awhile, presumably cooling the engine and sensors down, the engine would fire back up. There was no pattern to this, sometimes there were no problems on a trip, sometimes, multiple problems.

We chased and chased solutions (e.g. crank sensors, etc), except the Cam sensor because, according to the tech info, the cam sensor failure would not stop a running engine. There were no 2113 cam sensor codes thrown at any point.

As a matter of luck (and frustration), the owner decided to change cam sensor anyway. Guess what? Against all logic, the cam sensor *was* the cure and all the stalling while driving issues went away.

[HMS-S6]

I know of at least one AAN-powered UrS6 that would stall *while* driving. After sitting at the side of the road for awhile, presumably cooling the engine and sensors down, the engine would fire back up. There was no pattern to this, sometimes there were no problems on a trip, sometimes, multiple problems.

We chased and chased solutions (e.g. crank sensors, etc), except the Cam sensor because, according to the tech info, the cam sensor failure would not stop a running engine. There were no 2113 cam sensor codes thrown at any point.

As a matter of luck (and frustration), the owner decided to change cam sensor anyway. Guess what? Against all logic, the cam sensor *was* the cure and all the stalling while driving issues went away.

I have come to the conclusion that mine is over retarding itself. When i disconnect the CRANK sensor whilst the car is running it goes like a rocket! (i'm guessing it goes to a base setting instead of 'live') and on the knock sensing circuit its the only item i've not changed, i'm going to try it. Also mine is an after market item of dubious origin!

[johne]

Although I'm not the best expert here, S2Central is, there's things in this thread that concern me.

The cam position sensor is "only" used for starting in the sense that the engine won't start without it and if you disconnect it whilst the engine is running, the engine will continue to run. However, I understand Motronics does monitor the sensor and if it thinks it is faulty will roll back on maximum boost.

Secondly, there is no link between knock sensors and cam position sensor other than they are both used and monitored by Motronics. Motronics first reaction to a signal from the knock sensor - real or faulty - is to retard the ignition.

The position of the cam position sensor is not super sensitive as long as it's output pulse falls within the window that Motronics expects - there's recent posts on here with pictures and explanations of that.

Finally, a common way for the cam position sensor to "move" isn't it actually moving at all but for the timing belt to move as a consequence of the keyway or the crankshaft toothed pully the keyway sits in on the nose of the crank to have moved allowing the timing to move. You should check this as you can only let the timing move so far before the pistons will hit the valves causing expensive damage. It could be the cause of you feeling the engine is retarded.

John

[HMS-S6]

Although I'm not the best expert here, S2Central is, there's things in this thread that concern me.

The cam position sensor is "only" used for starting in the sense that the engine won't start without it and if you disconnect it whilst the engine is running, the engine will continue to run. However, I understand Motronics does monitor the sensor and if it thinks it is faulty will roll back on maximum boost.

Secondly, there is no link between knock sensors and cam position sensor other than they are both used and monitored by Motronics. Motronics first reaction to a signal from the knock sensor - real or faulty - is to retard the ignition.

The position of the cam position sensor is not super sensitive as long as it's output pulse falls within the window that Motronics expects - there's recent posts on here with pictures and explanations of that.

Finally, a common way for the cam position sensor to "move" isn't it actually moving at all but for the timing belt to move as a consequence of the keyway or the crankshaft toothed pully the keyway sits in on the nose of the crank to have moved allowing the timing to move. You should check this as you can only let the timing move so far before the pistons will hit the valves causing expensive damage. It could be the cause of you feeling the engine is retarded.

John

I have read on several sites that the camshaft sensor is used to govern knock reduction too. I was previously told also that it only was used for starting, but if this is the case, why does it turn boost down when unplugged!?!

Secondly, i do take on board re the valve timing, but i have checked it 3 times now and also the running fault is sort of intermittant

I have been chacing this for 5 years!

[HMS-S6]

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/22580.phtml

read the segment of text below the pictures

[johne]

If you're refering to the bit under "Signal failure", I don't believe it BUT as I said Paul@S2central can give a definative statement. Also you have AAN and I have ABY so it could be different, all I know is that when my cam position sensor started failing I ran with it for months with the only noticable problem being warm starting, not 11 degree retardation.

Given you can get a new Hall sensor for it for around £20 I'd fit a new one and see where that gets you.

John

[HMS-S6]

If you're refering to the bit under "Signal failure", I don't believe it BUT as I said Paul@S2central can give a definative statement. Also you have AAN and I have ABY so it could be different, all I know is that when my cam position sensor started failing I ran with it for months with the only noticable problem being warm starting, not 11 degree retardation.

Given you can get a new Hall sensor for it for around £20 I'd fit a new one and see where that gets you.

John

The bit about it being used for 'cylinder sensitive knock control' just above.

I'm trying to get one still on its bracket, as i want to rule out wrong fitment. I have litterally tried EVER other electrical item