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what is the difference between aan-aar/ku-nf/abc-aah conrods?
is there a chance for aah-abc or ku-nf to fit aan?
Oe codes groups them in the categories above.But they are 5 or 6 pcs/ code.Mayve v6 will fit?
what is the difference between aan-aar/ku-nf/abc-aah conrods? is there a chance for aah-abc or ku-nf to fit aan? Oe codes groups them in the categories above.But they are 5 or 6 pcs/ code. Maybe v6 will fit? Thank you
The AAN, ABY and ADU conrods are PN 027198401C. This conrod PN all crosses back to 1990 A100 with KU, NF or RT engines, the 7A, the AAR, and the urq RR (20vt).
The V6 conrods have a different PN, e.g. 078198401C. Somebody else will have to tell if you if they will fit a 5 cyl. Sorry.
RS2'd 93 UrS4 5 spd sedan
94 UrS4 V8 6 spd manual avant
I had changed head gasket with metal one and decided to change the conrod bearings.The oe had a little wear spot
The crank was std and was checked for roundness.I buyed kolbenschmidt sputter bearings also std and replaced them.After 500 km the nr 3 started to cnock.The conrod was not destroied.I had the crank made at 1 undersise and got again kolbenschmidt 1st undersize(+0.25).After measurings the clearance was 0.05mm.
I han no plastigauge because i can not find one,only ebay and i had no time to wait for it.
Now after driving around aprox 500 km only vacuum i instaled a wband and wanted to see how afr is.First wot,aprox 1.2 bar boost,afr 11.5-11.8. When pushed the clutch the engine stopped and blocked.The same nr 3 bearing is dead.This time the upper bearing pin made a slot in the bearing cap and conrod can not be used anymore.I have a std good crank but i have no aan conrod.I have a aah v6 for spares and an wc i5.
The oil pressure was about 5 bar at cold and 2 bar at hot iddle.At 1500 rpm with hot engine it was 3.5-4 bar.With the nr 3 bearing destroied at 800 rpm hot iddle oil pressure was 1.8 bar at 1500 rpm aprox 3 bar.The oil pump should be fine.The crank oiling holes were checked,the oilpump filter checked,oilfilter new(MAN one).I did not cheched the front of the crank that spins the oilpump.This can slip?But why the xxuck the oe were good and new sputter kolbenschmidt crushed?.I used only oil to lube bearings.But i had install them,rotated crank and hot them off.No signs of tightening or so.The caps were torqued to spec,they were good cleaned where the bearing sits,no deposits of oil,oil 10w60 mobil 1.
I dont think the oil is the problem!
i have a set of rods and plastigauge iff you need!
Let me know!
Nemilosu has also the kolbenschmit bearings in the engine...and so far so good.
Check the oil pump wear!
I am sory to hear this!
All the best!
Eugen
I've used KS bearings in all engine builds for last 12yrs and never had one fail personally. I have seen them fail along with other brands of bearings on other peoples engines and normally there is a reason for it.
Common faults are as follows
1) Conrod is the wrong way round (locating tabs facing exh instead of int)
2) Sputter bearings placed in cap instead of the rod
3) overfueling causing the bearing to go brittle (normally after a lot of mileage though 100K+)
4) oil pump failure or blocked oilway to the mains journal. Remember the crank is crossdrilled and the big end is fed by one of the mains journals. You may have perfect oil pressure but there may be debris in the feed through the block to the journal in question.
5) Conrod has not been checked for roundness before re use
6) Small end bearing is worn causing the outer edges of the bearing to wear excessively and collapse
The fact it has happened twice to the same nr3 rod leads me to believe that there is an underlying cause such as some of the above. As for using mobil 1 that is physicaly the worst oil to use on a turbo car.
Also remember if you are replacing the crank you will need to rebalance the new crank to your rods and pistons
I got the crank and rods out.It seems it was not enough clearance to the bearings(all af them)The protective layer is gone(i mean the white grey layer of bearings) and they are metal color.No scratches on them or on the crank but this makes me think they were to tight.Plastigauge will be my friend for alwais starting from NOW.
I have a crank that has 47.95 at the conrods,what do you think?It should have 47.8 acording to elsa.
What about mobil 1?Why do you say that?I have a vw lt 35 2.5 tdi i5 engine with aprox 600.000 km on it using only mobil 1 synth till 400.000 and after that 10w40 semi synth changed at 10.000 km.It burns aprox 200gr of oil at 10.000 km.You can say that engine has torque also.Not power and rpm but torque....
Thank you
Bogdan
A little search:
aan crank:034 105 101s and fits from i5 engines with codes:aar,px,mc,kv,hx,ng,ku,nm,7a,3b,aby,adu
aan conrods:027 198 401c and fit from:aar,7a,3b,aby,adu(nf,ku rt starting with 1990),(ps,kv,ng,nm starting with 1990)
This engines are very strong, i have over 350.000k with my engine, and trash it a lot, i did not care to much about what oil was using, and it still works, 1.4 bars, 7000 rpm everyday, and for the last 5000. km it has close to 0 oil pressure (which i am surre is imposible, probably sensor - even if autocheck, and oil gauge, are showing the same thing ). What i want to say, that if asambled within specs it sould last.
On the other hand, i can help you with some rods, if you need it - Bogdan
What should be the dimensions between oil pump gears.I saw long time ago in a vw golf that bentley or haynes gaved info about measuring distance/play between oilpump gears.For aan i can not find one.
I don't understand why people rebuild their own engines but don't bother to properly check clearances etc Its basic housekeeping.
Measure, measure and meaure again
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