Oil preference? and break in opinions

[euro_urs4]

hey guys gonna get the urs4 running in a month or so and just wanted some opinions on break in and oils, im looking to run royal purple oil, not sure with the grade yet (running hx40) anyone have any opinions? as far as break in i heard from a few guys to run the car for 200 miles then change the oil run it till 1000 and then change the oil for the regular oil change schedule. and quick spark plug question which plugs are best to run with this turbo for a urs4? thanks guys

[SteveH]

Stick with plain old mineral oil for the first 1000 miles. I ran the car to temp with the first fill of oil and dumped it, then re-filled with the same again and ran it for 150 miles. Changed the oil another time and ran it for 1000 miles and then switched to the synthetic I'd chosen to run with. You will receive plenty of suggestions on run-in process from take it easy to nail it hard straight away

[Thuppu]

Bosch F5DPOR with stock coils and Bosch FR5DP with 1.8T coils.

[s2_wot]

On audisrs there's an interesting thread about using a magnetic sump plug during engine run in. Seems like a worthwhile £20 to spend. Sorry for the OT.

[euro_urs4]

Very true heard from other running mineral oil like you stated. Thanks for the suggestion and spark plug help appreciate it guys

[Pirvu Eugen]

Bosch F5DPOR with stock coils and Bosch FR5DP with 1.8T coils.

Can you please explain this!
I will use the 1.8t coils and i bought F5DPOR plugs.
Do you know some issues with this combo?
Thank You!
Regards!
Eugen

[Thuppu]

Can you please explain this!
I will use the 1.8t coils and i bought F5DPOR plugs.
Do you know some issues with this combo?
Thank You!
Regards!
Eugen

The F5DPOR plugs works ok with 1.8T coils but are quite expensive compared to FR5DP, but in other hand F5DPOR last longer. Someone told the FR5DP would give better/stronger spark with 1.8T coils because the resistance is not optimal with F5DPOR plug/1.8T coil combo, but this is second hand info.

But for sure I have experienced that the FR5DP don't work with stock coils and high boost. Over 1,7bar boost and the engine starts stutter, but with the F5DPOR plugs no problem.

[euro_urs4]

Stick with plain old mineral oil for the first 1000 miles. I ran the car to temp with the first fill of oil and dumped it, then re-filled with the same again and ran it for 150 miles. Changed the oil another time and ran it for 1000 miles and then switched to the synthetic I'd chosen to run with. You will receive plenty of suggestions on run-in process from take it easy to nail it hard straight away

Do you still swap the oil filter each oil change?

[Rocco]

Do you still swap the oil filter each oil change?

OF COURSE FRIEND¡

[Pirvu Eugen]

The F5DPOR plugs works ok with 1.8T coils but are quite expensive compared to FR5DP, but in other hand F5DPOR last longer. Someone told the FR5DP would give better/stronger spark with 1.8T coils because the resistance is not optimal with F5DPOR plug/1.8T coil combo, but this is second hand info.

But for sure I have experienced that the FR5DP don't work with stock coils and high boost. Over 1,7bar boost and the engine starts stutter, but with the F5DPOR plugs no problem.

Thank You!
All the best!

[euro_urs4]

OF COURSE FRIEND¡

thanks sometime the stupidest questions are the best ones

[JP]

I've covered this somewhere before so not going to repeat it all as its a bit long winded however there is a few main points re oil changes.

1st run the car up to temp driving around the block a couple of times on 10w40 mineral and then dump the oil whilst hot, this allows you to check for leaks and get any impurities accumulated from the build out of the engine. Refill with fresh oil and new filter then drive 80-100miles till you feel engine loosening up. Drop oil whilst hot (thinner drains better and more thoroughly) then go to semi 10w40 with a new filter. At 500 can put in fully synthetic 5w40. If your oil temperatures are consistently 110 or more then run a w50 oil, if 90-100celsius run a w40.

As for the exact procedure on loading the engine etc that is in my other post somewhere. Whatever you do don't keep the mineral oil in there for too long as it is no good in supporting the bearings on turbo cars. Rings on average take 20-30miles to bed in providing sufficient load is used, by 80-100miles the engine should be nicely loosened up and no longer require the mineral oil for bedding. by putting in semi at this stage it means you can raise the rpm and load without risk to the bearings.

[euro_urs4]

I've covered this somewhere before so not going to repeat it all as its a bit long winded however there is a few main points re oil changes.

1st run the car up to temp driving around the block a couple of times on 10w40 mineral and then dump the oil whilst hot, this allows you to check for leaks and get any impurities accumulated from the build out of the engine. Refill with fresh oil and new filter then drive 80-100miles till you feel engine loosening up. Drop oil whilst hot (thinner drains better and more thoroughly) then go to semi 10w40 with a new filter. At 500 can put in fully synthetic 5w40. If your oil temperatures are consistently 110 or more then run a w50 oil, if 90-100celsius run a w40.

As for the exact procedure on loading the engine etc that is in my other post somewhere. Whatever you do don't keep the mineral oil in there for too long as it is no good in supporting the bearings on turbo cars. Rings on average take 20-30miles to bed in providing sufficient load is used, by 80-100miles the engine should be nicely loosened up and no longer require the mineral oil for bedding. by putting in semi at this stage it means you can raise the rpm and load without risk to the bearings.

is it better to allow the rings for bedding process, with mineral oil, and not synthetic in this case?