Is it normal to see 110C coolant on AAN?

[popdemonic]

here's the thread about my UrS6 with running hot scenario.

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52648

The symptom is when the car is stationary at idle for a while,the

coolant gauge will start to go up and deadly at 110C mark.



When the car has started to move on,the needle will kick back

to 90C mark.I never experienced the coolant vomits out of the

reservoir.It seems like engine is running way hotter than usual.

I inspected most of the main hoses and there's no any blockages.



I replaced the black tiny coolant pipe on the side of the block

with SS homemade coolant pipe.the old one is corrosive both of the

end pipe.





The radiator is freshly new.



here's some of video.



Testing my fan clutch.After the car has been running under 107C degree coolant.



the Aux. Fan is working flawlessly both low&hi speed.

thermal switch at the bottm of the radiator should be fine since

the Aux. fan kick in both speed.

I replaced the colder 71C T-stat but the coolant still goes up if the car has been

sitting idle for a long time or I drive it hardly and just stop at the traffic.The coolant

needle will start to go up gradually until 110C Degree.

Water pump has been swapped with the brand new with no changes.

Viscous coupling has been swapped the brand new in.the coolant temp

is still going up.I think i have been replaced almost of the cooling system parts

w/o any helps.71C T-stat could make the coolant temp goes up a bit

slower but it seems the coolant needle was still going up.

the coolant has been well bleeding to avoid the airlock in the cooling system

the head has been removed and resurfaced,new head gasket.

the cooling system has been flushed with the HCL. done the compression

test and got 150 150 150 140 145psi.the aftermarket coolant temp gauge

is in to make sure my coolant gauge is not malfunction.what's next?

another thing is my coolant gauge is just delayed when it's starting

to go up and down so i tap another aftermarket with separated sensor to

monitor the actual coolant .

flickering stock digital boost gauge.not sure if the culprit is from the same as

the coolant gauge.

[A80Avant]

where is the aftermarket temp gauge feeding from?are you sure it is not getting a same poor signal as the dash? If yes, then there is definitely something wrong, as the temp is trully high.

when it reaches that high level, do you get the coolant bubbling in the reservoir?

Have you tried opening the heater to full hot to see if the temp is getting lower?

[westcountry S2]

What temp does the fan cut in at ?

[simon20vq]

Air lock? Thermostate knackered or in the wronge way around?

[popdemonic]

where is the aftermarket temp gauge feeding from?are you sure it is not getting a same poor signal as the dash? If yes, then there is definitely something wrong, as the temp is trully high.

when it reaches that high level, do you get the coolant bubbling in the reservoir?

Have you tried opening the heater to full hot to see if the temp is getting lower?

I tapped the aftermarket gauge sensor at the coolant outlet hose from

the engine>>radiator upper inlet hose.

I use VAG-com and hook up the measuring block,the engine coolant temp

sensor feeding the the signal to motronic also see the the truly high

temp as 107.8C



once the temp reached the high C degree,the coolant is slightly bubbling

but not that visible to be noticed.The heater system has been bypassed for passed

10years since there will be never had snow or the temp below 20C Deg. here.

the ambient temp is around +30C Deg.

[popdemonic]

What temp does the fan cut in at ?

I never noticed about the temp which the Aux. fan kicking in but

once my aftermarket coolant gauge reached 100C Deg.The

Hi-speed fan is working all the way.never seem stopped with the

A/C on.

[popdemonic]

Air lock? Thermostate knackered or in the wronge way around?

T-stat has been boiling test.they were fully opened.



T-stat has been installed with vertical orientation.I think it's not possible

to install them in different angles.There's the plastic clips locking the

T-stat inside the T-stat Cap.There's no more heater it's way so easy to

bleed the air.I remove the upper hose and pour water inside the motor

and pour the rest inside the radiator ,reservoir.start the engine wait until

the T-stat fully opened and pour the additional water inside the reservoir.

[westcountry S2]

Surely if the temp is fine when driving the car and only overheats when stationary,indicates air flow to me.

Does the fan spin freely by hand ?

Have you replaced the fan ? If so was it off something else ? i made the mistake of fitting another fan and wired it up and it blew the wrong way !

Seeing as you have changed everything, i cant see it being anything major.

I would also check the temp when the fan cuts in. If it cuts in at the right temp,90c is normal i think,but still continues to rise,i would say the fan isnt working well enough

[Jamo]

Screams water pump to me

[westcountry S2]

Screams water pump to me

So would i but already says he has changed it for a new one

[JP]

Only time I've seen temps like that is when the viscous fan stops working. I've seen them spin but not upto the correct speed before at idle causing overheating issues. We use to test them whilst the engine was idling, if we could stop it with a screwdriver at idle and then rev the engine with no real resistance then it was time to change them.

[popdemonic]

well,I think my gauge is having some wiring issue.my digital boost gauge is occasionally flickering.I noticed everytime when the digital boost gauge does that,my coolant temp gauge will start to go up.Today i let the car idling until the aftermarket gauge reached up to 100C .The stock coolant gauge
is deadly staying at 90C .i tried to rev the engine up at 4K rpm until the oil temp stayed at 120C and aftermarket coolant gauge shown somewhere above 105C.
stock coolant gauge is staying at 90C .the point is i always compare the coolant temp level on our cars with some japanese car which the coolant
temp always stay below 100C Deg.I asked my frined who owe 96 saab 9000 Aero with full GT3071R.He said his car is normal to see 110-115C in traffic especially it's above 40C ambient temp on the midday here. i checked the sjm's website.I found that the thermoswitch which mounted
at the lower left of the radiator will kick in the low speed fan @ 95C and hi speed fan @102 C which i assume the coolant outlet from the cylinder head should be somewhere above 102C as long as the coolant hasn't started to vomit through the reservoir that should be fine.
i never had the coolant vomited though, it seems like my car is normal but the wiring or ground point is my culprits.

[popdemonic]

I would say I have been replaced most of the suspecious parts on my car.
-Viscous Coupling fan.
-300Watts Aux. fan
-T-stat both 71&87C.
-tiny pipe side of the block.
-Reservoir Cap.
-Resurfaced ,pressure test on cylinder head (no warps or cracks)
-bleeding the cooling system.
-flushing the system with HCL.
-Behr Radiator.
-Fan shroud.
-water pump.
I think these are every parts related with the cooling system.

[rs200]

all you guys are on wrong way..
everithing is fine with , water sistem and fan colling.

the question is why the oil tem. are so high? 130C !!!

the reason why the coolant is in the engine are - because they have to cool down the oil.
what kind of oil do you have in the car?
oil tem. will hit 130C if the car work on idle for a few hours. or on highway with extrem driving on high boost 90% of time.

try to change the oil (10w-40) .
and if the issue still exist. then take a look on turbo. because the turbo is only hot part which have water and oil flow.
maybe your turbo seems you good , and boost well.. but they dont have good flow for oil

I have same issue with one k24 before 5 years ago.

[A80Avant]

i have never seen an oil temp go to 130C on just sitting on idle. Is the oil cooler blocked? or the valve that goes to it blocked or closed?