Fuse 24

[Mr G]

Hey there chaps
Please help.... I've tried searching, but no luck, apologies upfront if there is already a thread on this.
Fuse 24 on my RS2 keep blowing, but only when/during high boost. If driving sedately no problems.
The description of the fuse on the lid is "engine timing IV".
Any thoughts on where I should start looking or has anyone had this problem before.
I'm thinking a tear/cut in one of the wires....but which one?
Thanx in anticipation
Cheers

PS - the first time this happened was when pulling off pretty hard and turning left, the subsequent 2 times that this has happened was also when turning left - the 3rd time I was going straight, but happened after a slight bump in the road

[Pirvu Eugen]

Dont know iff is the same as the others...but..on mine..the fuse 24 was the one for Carbon canister valve, idle stabilizer valve and WGFV. Maibe you have an short circuit on one of those!
You pulled the error codes?

[Bowlerwell]

I believe fuse 24 is also used for water pump.

[jade]

If fuse 24 is controling the WGFV and its blowing well you have WOT I would check or change that

[UrS4boy]

Hey there chaps
Please help.... I've tried searching, but no luck, apologies upfront if there is already a thread on this. Fuse 24 on my RS2 keep blowing, but only when/during high boost. If driving sedately no problems. The description of the fuse on the lid is "engine timing IV".

Can you post up a clear photo of that fuse box lid?

From a previous post, "According to Paul N's diagrams (pg.43/57), on the row with the No. 23 through 32 fuse holders, the No. 23, 26 and 30 holder positions are empty, with No. 24 = the ISV, WGFV and Evap Control fuse, No. 25 the O2 sensor fuse, No. 27 = ECU constant 12v, No. 28 = fuel injectors and MAF and No. 32 = coils (reference: Paul's wiring pdf, Pg. 40/57)" This is in some conflict with this photo of a supposedly RS2 fuse box cover:



One previous thread in which the RS2 fuse box was discussed:

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54002&highlight=thermo

[Mr G]

UrS4boy - my lid is exactly as the one you posted, and the exact same holder (23,26 and 30) are empty
I'll take a pic and post - probably tomorrow

[UrS4boy]

UrS4boy - my lid is exactly as the one you posted, and the exact same holder (23,26 and 30) are empty. I'll take a pic and post - probably tomorrow

So basically the same as this one:

[Mr G]

Yep that's the one and 24 keeps popping

[UrS4boy]

Yep that's the one and 24 keeps popping

Therefore, as per the previous suggestions, you need to have a few of those red 10 Amp fuses on hand and then unplug a few things, e.g. WGFV, after-run pump and the N80 Evap Emissions valve. Then one by one, add one of these devices back in until the fuse blows (again). Then you will know where the problem lies and you can start to trace the fault in the device or wiring that is causing the dead short.


Base photo courtesy of Tom S. (RS2 in America)

[Mikes2]

That photo of the fusebox lid is not from an RS2.

The original is here

http://s2-audi.co.uk/tech_articles/electrical/engine_fuse_box.htm

[UrS4boy]

That photo of the fusebox lid is not from an RS2. The original is here http://s2-audi.co.uk/tech_articles/e...e_fuse_box.htm

Duly noted. (We only HAVE 4 RS2s in Canada and only one local to me - and I don't have access to it for photos). I did check the cross on the stickers. The 8A0010115E (the top one for the relays) crosses to A80, A80Q, ACA, ACO, ACOQ but no RS2. I can't read the lower PN for the fuse sticker but a 8A0010128B is the PN for the English fuse call-out sticker. Same PN cross list. Oddly (?) when one tries to check these equivalent stickers for the RS2, nothing pops up. Therefore, I would love to see a better photo of an RS2 fuse box than Tom S's shown here (in German IF you could read it):

[Mr G]

I'll take a pic of the fuse box in my RHD RS2 and post in the next few days

[Mr G]

Here's the pics as promised



Also found and resolved the problem
The electrical wire/connection from the N75 and some other wires were bare - the insulation had worn off. So when turning left, the exposed wires were making contact with the chassis and hence the blown fuse. All the exposed wires have now been insulated and all's well
Thanx for the input - much appreciated
Cheers

[UrS4boy]

Great news. Happy to hear that you found and sorted the shorting problem.

Sent you a PM with a request.

(The bigger the better)